Stolen 1M

[woosh]

Hmmmm... so there goes my theory that they're buying used keys in bulk to reprogram to each vehicle...

[Aussie_in_London]

I have a disklok I always use no matter if it's locked away in the garage or down at costco, have always used additional hardware as have never trusted alarm systems as no one takes any notice anyways.......the long handle I position against the side window (in the corner that appears to be smashed) and you have to physically move it out of the way to get your arm down to the OBD port, in doing so it should trigger the motion sensor on the alarm as the whole disk is moved...........

[brownie815]

Hi, Aussie_in_London.
May I know what is the size of the disklok you are using for your 1M? Thanks!

[Aussie_in_London]

It is a 'Small' mate.

[brownie815]

Thanks a lot!

[Aussie_in_London]

No worries ....

[woosh]

OP, any updates? Can you upload the cctv footage for us to see?

I've recently watched a few documentaries and read quite a number of articles, and I'm simply baffled as to how deep this uk theft problem goes. It's honestly a little frightening...

For anyone else interested, this article (from late '11) has some interesting insights - http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/moslive/article-2045557/WARNING-Thieves-want-steal-car-ship-Uganda-OPERATE-IN-THIS-AREA.html

[Pugland53]

I haven't used my disklok in years but I think I'll start using it again until this problem gets sorted (if ever!).

[Artemis]

Actually, I always wondered why car manufactures don't develop some specific tough lock system for the fuel tank access. And I don't mean the fuel tank door because that's a joke to break apart. No, I refer to some sort of hard-to-crack fuel filler cap construction: access with a special key, badge, code or, why not, biometric requirement (fingerprint, speech-recognition, iris-recognition). Purpose: a thief realizes that it will take him quite a hassle to unlock the fuel tank access (deconstruction of body parts) or getting after you for "assistance". Of course the car is gone if the thief is only interested in spare parts.

Maybe it is not developed to avoid 'friendly fire' situations: there you are as legitimate owner at the fuel station with an almost empty fuel tank not managing to unlock the bloody Fort Knox fuel access thing for no apparent reason ("Error - Please try again").

[Artemis]

Moving the OBD port or duct taping it has already been proposed to adress the OBD abuse vulnerability of the 1M.

What about fuse removal as cheap and easy alternative to give thieves a hard(er) time to rapidly dash off with your 1M parked on the driveway ? If you leave your car for a longer period, remove an essential fuse from the fuse box, but allow the car to remain locked, the alarm to go off if necessary and accessible when you use your keyfob.

According to the fuse box scheme fuses 2 [15 Ampère] and 74 [5 Ampère] are the ones powering the OBD. Except if mistaken, fuse 74 also powers the dashboard. Remove these (probably only fuse 74) and the OBD is brain dead. Maybe the car cannot even be driven.

Thieves will be puzzled, because they can't figure out why they can't use your 1M OBD for reprogramming the key with their device. If they realize that an essential fuse must be missing, they need to figure out the fuse box configuration. But for all thieves, time is of the essence, so most will dash off. The skilled ones will take the effort to check out the fuse box. However, their movements will trigger the alarm. And, of course, to make it even more difficult for them, don't leave the removed fuses in the near vicinity of the fuse box (eventually take them out the car). Thieves got to know to bring spare fuses...

You can also consider removing other fuses preventing the car from being driven (start/stop, etc.), but be careful not to mess with it.

I did not try this yet, but tech heads over here will undoubtedly be able to tell us about the pros and cons of fuse removal.

Here's the scheme of the 1M fuse box:
(see: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...20&postcount=1) (also features in the Manuals Sticky: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...82&postcount=1)

[DSCPLN]

Any developments on this thread? Or protecting the OBD box of our beautiful 1M's?

[Aussie_in_London]

The latest I have seen on pistonheads

[DSCPLN]

Great Article. But are there any clear cut methods on protecting our cars?

[Aussie_in_London]

Sleep in it with a loaded gun and a pitbull by your side.......

Otherwise a diskloc on the steering wheel and a wheel clamp should help with the 'Gone in 60 seconds' scenario..........

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Aussie_in_London

The latest I have seen on pistonheads

Dang!!! That is even the same key fob cloning tool in my original youtube video I posted in this thread! (post #13)...

Here is the maker of the cloning scan tool: Edilock. It costs only 8,000 euros, from our friends in Bulgaria. (see contact info on their website!)

http://www.vag-info.com/index.htm




.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Artemis

Moving the OBD port or duct taping it has already been proposed to adress the OBD abuse vulnerability of the 1M.

What about fuse removal as cheap and easy alternative to give thieves a hard(er) time to rapidly dash off with your 1M parked on the driveway ? If you leave your car for a longer period, remove an essential fuse from the fuse box, but allow the car to remain locked, the alarm to go off if necessary and accessible when you use your keyfob.

According to the fuse box scheme fuses 2 [15 Ampère] and 74 [5 Ampère] are the ones powering the OBD. Except if mistaken, fuse 74 also powers the dashboard. Remove these (probably only fuse 74) and the OBD is brain dead. Maybe the car cannot even be driven.

Thieves will be puzzled, because they can't figure out why they can't use your 1M OBD for reprogramming the key with their device. If they realize that an essential fuse must be missing, they need to figure out the fuse box configuration. But for all thieves, time is of the essence, so most will dash off. The skilled ones will take the effort to check out the fuse box. However, their movements will trigger the alarm. And, of course, to make it even more difficult for them, don't leave the removed fuses in the near vicinity of the fuse box (eventually take them out the car). Thieves got to know to bring spare fuses...

You can also consider removing other fuses preventing the car from being driven (start/stop, etc.), but be careful not to mess with it.

I did not try this yet, but tech heads over here will undoubtedly be able to tell us about the pros and cons of fuse removal.

Here's the scheme of the 1M fuse box:
(see: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...20&postcount=1) (also features in the Manuals Sticky: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...82&postcount=1)

Attachment 703635
Attachment 703637
Attachment 703638

So which fuse(s) do we need to pull ???


Looks like #2 and #74 - right?

[firechicken99]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

So which fuse(s) do we need to pull ???


Looks like #2 and #74 - right?

That is an interesting idea!!! Especially now that my car sits in the driveway for several days while I work out of state!

[DSCPLN]

Can someone please confirm which fuses will disconnect just the OBD Connector?

[BIG DRE]

People nicking new BMW has been around for ages,I live in north London & my mates 335i went missing in muswell hill,a lot of BMs in north & east London have been going missing,the police knows how they do it because the police explain to my my mate how they done it......same way the other guys went missing,popped the window....I have the same lock on mine as AUSSIE IN LONDON....so hope fully they won't take mine......but anyone who lives in London & don't mind traveling to hounslow,there a guy name jason@BMCHIPTUNE...he's made a device or some thing like that & the guys nicking BMs won't be able to take your car,give him a buz on 0208 570 3600 his names JASON & he'll be able to explain better....say to him BIG DRE gave you his number....have a chat wiv him & post up what you think he said & let everyone know how to beat the BM thiefs......good luck guys......

[Artemis]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

So which fuse(s) do we need to pull ???
Looks like #2 and #74 - right?

If you look at the fuse box diagram (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=143), you'll notice that:
- fuse #2 (15Amp) powers OBD
- fuse #74 (5Amp) powers OBD + dashboard (well, at least I think that's the icon for it)

If you look at the picture, you'll notice that there is no fuse in fuse slot #2 (second left of the first row of fuse slots). Fuse slot #74 (third left of the last row of fuse slots) is taken though. Got to check whether that's also the case in my 1M. If affirmative, OBD and dashboard are powered by fuse #74 only (third left of the last row of fuse slots). According to the fuse box diagram fuse #74 is not used for something else than OBD and dashboard.

So here's my theory, if of any help: if you're away for sometime (e.g. leaving your car at the airport), remove fuse #74: OBD is brain dead and potential thieves will be outsmarted and surprised (except if they figured it out in the meantime and brought spare fuses). Hide the fuse at some hidden spot or take it with you (and keep some 5Amp spares in case you lose, blow or break the one for fuse #74).

Did not test it yet. Wondering wheter the car can still be (un)locked, alarm armed, etc. without fuse #74. Wanna test, Dackel ?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Artemis

Did not test it yet. Wondering wheter the car can still be (un)locked, alarm armed, etc. without fuse #74. Wanna test, Dackel ?

^^ Well... I don't have a 1M. Only a tuned 135i.

[Artemis]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

^^ Well... I don't have a 1M. Only a tuned 135i.

Hm, but a 1M is just a souped up 135i, no ?