B&M Short Shift Kit and CDV Mod DIY

[RPM8300]

All,
I know some threads have been started on this, and maybe I didnt catch all of the details, but I had some issues with these two mods and I wanted to put out another DIY. I'm sorry I dont have pictures.

For anyone thinking of doing these mods, the car feels 50% better after the SSK and CDV mod. The throws are tight and I can do heel/toe shifting without getting a jerky resistance from the clutchplate.

B&M Shifter Notes:
-I did a UUC SSK install on an 335i sedan and this install was easier. There were/are some issues with the kit.

-On the 135, the clip holding the bottom of the shifter connected to the tranny linkage bar can be a pain. This whole install is painful because you have to fit your hands/arms in a relatively small space. My recommendation is to use a small allen wrench and put it through the bottom of the U clip, then with your other hand use a small screw driver or tool to lift the bar holding the clip in place. After you lift the clip the allen wrench will make it easy to pull the clip off.

-When your rotate the plastic shift ball shell be careful not to tear up the plastic, especially the two 'tabs' mentioned in the instrcutions. Its also a tight spot to have two small phillips head screw drivers to rotate the plastic.

-I installed the clip as the B&M instrcutions but once the new shifter is in, the plastic ball shell which is reused would come back up and out with a little pressure. I rotated the plastic tabs so that they were underneath the part of the metal shell that has a lip for retention, but it would still come out. The instructions from B&M call for you to 'hammer' the plastic in but that didnt do the trick. Not a huge issue just so long as you dont pull up on your shift knob.

-After you install the knew shifter and your underneath the car, the instructions call for using a B&M provide washer on both ends of the bottom of the shift knob as you reconnect it with the tranny lever. I used one washer which went closest to the tranny lever, but there was no room to put the U clip back on when using the 2nd washer. If someone can figure this one out let me know - but I think its because this SSK's instructions are made for the E90.


SSK MOD was nothing compared to the goat rope of the CDV Valve.

-The CDV valve is easy enough to find - there are two metal clips that need to be moved, but not come completely off. I was doing this job in a car garage and when I moved the 2nd clip which secures the CDV in place, I used too much force and the clip flew off. My buddy and I spent the next 30 minutes looking for it - for a while we thought a bug stole it. Be careful with these clips.

-To be safe, go get the brake/clutch fluid from BMW or whatever replacement fluid you think is necessary. I clamped the hose with plyers which worked fine, and then removed the CDV and did the plastic tap out trick. Very effective and cheap. Now, in retrospect I think I could have just replaced everything and it would have worked fine, but I decided to bleed the clutch valve like others. This is when things went south.

-If you plan on doing this mod, have a 11mm crows foot, or some other tool that will allow you to open and close the valve. The valve is very hard to reach and if you do bleed the clutch out, you will have to do this at least a few times.

-BIG THING - as stated in another post in some obscure location the reservoir in the front right corner of the hood does feed both the brakes and clutch, however the way the reservoir is designed, it is split into 2 chambers and the chamber that feeds the clutch is a very small portion on the far right as your looking down at the reservoir. Additionally, you have to have the fluid level just about max for fluid to drain into that clutch portion of the reservoir. I ended up trying to bleed and pump fluid in and got nothing but air. I kept checking the reservoir and saw there was fluid in it and it was just about full. Have your replacement fluid on standby and do the following:

-Dont worry about saving the fluid but to avoid making a mess have a small pan - have your buddy push and hold the clutch down and open the valve.
You dont have open it much, and dont forget to take off the rubber nipple.
After you open it let all of the fluid and bubbles and air drain out. After this is all done and its just dripping a little fluid, close the valve and have your buddy release the clutch.

-Go and fill the reservoir all the way past the max indicator.

-Have your buddy pump the clutch - there shouldnt be much resistance. After pumping it about 5-10 times, have him hold it down.

-Open the valve and you should get a little air and a little fluid. Close the valve.

-Repeat these steps - each time you do it youll get more pressure on the clutch as it fills back up with fluid.

-After about 4 or 5 iterations of this, youll open the valve and get a steady stream of fluid. At this point close the valve as soon as you open it and wipe all the crap off of your face and hands and sit in your baby. If the clutch feels like it did before, your good to go.

Pretty painful, but definately worth it.

[jibaholic101]

would you say that the b&m is better quality than the uuc?

[RPM8300]

Long story short - yes, I think the B&M is a better buy:

Pros:
-Significantly Cheaper
-IMO feels tighter than the UUC that I had in my E90
-Much easier install

Cons:
-Reuse of plastic ball shell is flimsly at best
-Not height adjustable
-With the B&M in the shifter sits just a little canted to the right

Details:
-Both of these products could use a little more engineering: The UUC calls for 6 tiny screws that are susposed to be loctite'd in place. If you can pull this off without filling down one of your allen wrenches let me know how. The B&M reuses the plastic shell which would could out of its place relatively easily.

-After driving around for a couple days, I havent had any issues with the B&M coming up and out. Plastic rubber boot might help with that. As long as you dont jerk up on the shifter wont be an issue.

-B&M feels tight- very tight, and very mechanical. Youll be shifting during strong acceleration and think you missed a shift short, but then youll realize your in 2nd, 4th or 6th, and the throw is just shorter. With the UUC sometimes I would feel a shift would have 2 notches, as in when I went from N to 2nd there was a click click. With the B&M I dont seem to have that issue.

-BLAFE (bottom line at the f end) Both of these mods are worth is and really make the car feel like it should, nimble, precise, and predictable. With the SSK I can push her hard up to a curve, hit the brakes and pull off a heel toe without having to worry about the shift. With the CDV, during slow traffic you have the ability really control your movement without the jerkiness, i.e. 5 mph or less.

[Mega Man]

Forgive me, but what's UUC?

I'm actually thinking BMW Performance Short Shift Kit.

[jibaholic101]

Originally Posted by Mega Man

Forgive me, but what's UUC?

I'm actually thinking BMW Performance Short Shift Kit.

uuc is a brand of short shift kit, just like b&m, etc

[Mega Man]

Ah, I think I'm just going to go with BMW Performance. I like the knob it comes with.

[BlackjackMulligan]

Originally Posted by Tom Koh

-I installed the clip as the B&M instrcutions but once the new shifter is in, the plastic ball shell which is reused would come back up and out with a little pressure. I rotated the plastic tabs so that they were underneath the part of the metal shell that has a lip for retention, but it would still come out. The instructions from B&M call for you to 'hammer' the plastic in but that didnt do the trick. Not a huge issue just so long as you dont pull up on your shift knob.

Nice write up, reminds me of when I installed my B&M!

I think you're going to run into an issue with the above quote though....if you can pop the shifter back out of the linkage, it will eventually come out in your hand after a hard shift or a bump and you'll be screwed. When I installed mine I had the same issue at first but kept playing with the plastic collar and twisting it and tapping it down until I couldn't pull the thing out. Even still, I was worried it might pop out eventually.

[EngPhys09]

Originally Posted by Tom Koh

Details:
-Both of these products could use a little more engineering: The UUC calls for 6 tiny screws that are susposed to be loctite'd in place. If you can pull this off without filling down one of your allen wrenches let me know how. The B&M reuses the plastic shell which would could out of its place relatively easily.

I was able to get around this issue by removing the carrier from the car. Made it dead easy.

I'm a big fan of UUC's had one in my E34 and now its absolutely amazing in my 128i. I have never tried B&M, but I am so impressed with how good UUC are I don't plan on changing.

I still haven't done the CDV mod I'm still debating this. But I'm very happy with how it performs now.

[Grinchxvx]

Bumppppppp:
The plastic shell on my car is slipping in and out of place with my b&m shifter. I managed to push it back in for now but for a permanent fix I have to push down and twist clockwise so the shell gets locked in correct? What's weird is it's been like that for a while and my car was shifting fine.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Grinchxvx

Bumppppppp:
The plastic shell on my car is slipping in and out of place with my b&m shifter. I managed to push it back in for now but for a permanent fix I have to push down and twist clockwise so the shell gets locked in correct? What's weird is it's been like that for a while and my car was shifting fine.

You should ALWAYS replace that plastic bearing(#9 bellow) that the shift lever sits inside of. Its cheap and this plastic "bearing" will wear and get brittle over time. Half the time it just falls apart when you remove them.




Another tip would be to use some very LONG(8 inch) needle nose pliers - to remove those c-clips. Also I would have some extra c-clips on hand, bc they too will break or fly off into never never land.

Dropping the exhaust mid pipes - helps with the tight space issue. IF you do that... always replace the mid pipe gaskets. And be prepared to replace the dp's studs - bc they sometimes will snap off. Then you'll need a torch and some new ss bolts/hardware.

Originally Posted by Mega Man

Ah, I think I'm just going to go with BMW Performance. I like the knob it comes with.

I have the BMW Performance shifter and I LOVE IT!!! The car should have come with it. BMW has stopped producing them... so you better hurry IF you want one.


Dackel

[Grinchxvx]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

You should ALWAYS replace that plastic bearing(#9 bellow) that the shift lever sits inside of. Its cheap and this plastic "bearing" will wear and get brittle over time. Half the time it just falls apart when you remove them.


Attachment 1209635

Another tip would be to use some very LONG(8 inch) needle nose pliers - to remove those c-clips. Also I would have some extra c-clips on hand, bc they too will break or fly off into never never land.

Dropping the exhaust mid pipes - helps with the tight space issue. IF you do that... always replace the mid pipe gaskets. And be prepared to replace the dp's studs - bc they sometimes will snap off. Then you'll need a torch and some new ss bolts/hardware.

I have the BMW Performance shifter and I LOVE IT!!! The car should have come with it. BMW has stopped producing them... so you better hurry IF you want one.


Dackel

The above is already on the car and has been for a few years, the issue is it developed a up and down play which is the shifter lever popping out of the arm. I don't have to take it completely apart right? The little white bearing/socket is still in good shape. I was hoping just to push it back in