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      09-26-2011, 10:38 AM   #23
xerox445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
Interesting for those considering using Water Wetter
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/200...etter®-review/


This is how a thermostat works. It negates any value of this yahoo's article.

http://www.howstuffworks.com/question248.htm

Again, here a post that should help you:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=75

and the direct link to the real information about the product:
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/fi...ech%20Info.pdf
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      09-26-2011, 10:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
Harold,
How much one of your radiators cost? I don't see anything listed on your site
It's not there, as it is still a custom piece for those requesting it. For the custom units, they are $995 each and are built to order.

Remember, for your street car it will not be a completely drop-in fit. Some trimming of the plastic radiator support will be needed(not like what people had to do when installing the FMIC though).

One is being used in BMWCCA 135i racecar owned by Scott Cary:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=38

Last edited by HP Autosport; 09-26-2011 at 10:58 AM..
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      09-26-2011, 11:12 AM   #25
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Harold,
The price is fair. How long does it take to deliver when ordered? So you think this is a better solution than the oil cooler?
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      09-26-2011, 11:32 AM   #26
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I have PPK with radiator that I purchased as the OEM kit. The install (done by dealer) was pretty time consuming and I was lucky to have neogtiated the install price ahead of time. The front bumper needs to come off and the horn relocated (parts needed). I have the bmw installation instructions so if anyone is really interested send me your email in a PM. You also need to purchase some ducts for behind the front bumper (different depending on which bumper you have). All parts are identified in the instructions.
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      09-26-2011, 12:05 PM   #27
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Anyone have a DIY on how to drain the coolant from our engines?
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      09-26-2011, 12:40 PM   #28
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^ unplug the lower hose and let it drain
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      09-26-2011, 01:03 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thez99 View Post
Anyone have a DIY on how to drain the coolant from our engines?
The drain is located on the bottom of the radiator. You can access it by removing the FMIC.

Harold
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      09-26-2011, 01:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
Harold,
The price is fair. How long does it take to deliver when ordered? So you think this is a better solution than the oil cooler?
It will be a 4-6 week lead time.

It's the only cooling system mod we have on the Redline Time Attack 335i(Still with AC system). OEM oil cooler and no overheating issues. Others competing in the 135i's(All AC removed) had to use one or more large oil coolers and still had overheating issues.

Once again, water/coolant is the primary cooling agent for our engines if address the shortcomings there you don't have to rely so much on your oil system for cooling.

Last edited by HP Autosport; 09-26-2011 at 02:49 PM..
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      09-26-2011, 01:16 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
It will be a 4-6 week lead time.

It's the only cooling system mod we have on the Redline Time Attack 335i. OEM oil cooler and no overheating issues. Others competing in the 135i's had to use one or more large oil coolers and still had overheating issues.

Once again, water/coolant is the primary cooling agent for our engines if address the shortcomings there you don't have to rely so much on your oil system for cooling.
Thanks for the info, Harold. Do you know offhand if your radiator can be installed on a car that has the PPK hardware?
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      09-26-2011, 01:55 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icabod7 View Post
Thanks for the info, Harold. Do you know offhand if your radiator can be installed on a car that has the PPK hardware?
Yes, it is a direct replacement for the oem radiator, but slightly higher in coolant capacity.
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      09-26-2011, 02:33 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1&done View Post
radiator 17117602241 $217.70
coolant hose 17127602294 $81.90
radiator bracket 17217540030 $3.82
fan 17428508253 $615.48
mounting 34511162818 $2.14
engine inlet hose 64219222129 $43.51
wiring set 61122160451 $67.22

^PPK Package...Compliments from Dan of United, I am looking into this. Apparently there is a special going on right now but I think it includes the mild tune That is another part number.
Was thinking that the more powerful radiator fan might help for just daily driving. But noticed from the parts list a wiring harness is needed. Might be more than just replacing one fan for the other. Also might need some reprograming to work properly.I like the larger capacity radiator Harold sugested. Do that and dont worry about it anymore.
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      09-26-2011, 02:50 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Fasst1 View Post
Was thinking that the more powerful radiator fan might help for just daily driving. But noticed from the parts list a wiring harness is needed. Might be more than just replacing one fan for the other. Also might need some reprograming to work properly.I like the larger capacity radiator Harold sugested. Do that and dont worry about it anymore.
The higher volume fan many help at idle and low speeds, but once you get moving above 45 mph, the air passing through the radiator will take over.
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      09-26-2011, 05:16 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
The drain is located on the bottom of the radiator. You can access it by removing the FMIC.

Harold
Hmm, taking off the FMIC isnt exactly a "pop ur head under the car n drain something" kinda thing...

Thought it would be a tad bit easier than that. Course I suppose i could siphon the shit out the top but i really doubt i wanna trying sucking coolant thru a tube
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      09-26-2011, 05:24 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thez99 View Post
Hmm, taking off the FMIC isnt exactly a "pop ur head under the car n drain something" kinda thing...

Thought it would be a tad bit easier than that. Course I suppose i could siphon the shit out the top but i really doubt i wanna trying sucking coolant thru a tube
Disconnect the hose leading to the overflow reservoir if easier if you want to do that instead.
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      09-27-2011, 10:36 AM   #37
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Harold, what is the impact of the larger radiator on normal driving temperatures? For instance if your engine coolant is typically at 240-250 degrees, will it drop to a lower number or is it only effective at the higher temperatures that you get with racing?

What about the issue of coolant replacement with regards to cooling efficiency and engine/water system longevity? Coolant relacement is no longer part of normal BMW maintenance, however "old school - Mike Miller" recommendation is to change.
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      09-27-2011, 11:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablito1702 View Post
Harold, what is the impact of the larger radiator on normal driving temperatures? For instance if your engine coolant is typically at 240-250 degrees, will it drop to a lower number or is it only effective at the higher temperatures that you get with racing?

What about the issue of coolant replacement with regards to cooling efficiency and engine/water system longevity? Coolant relacement is no longer part of normal BMW maintenance, however "old school - Mike Miller" recommendation is to change.
It's not going to drop below the thermostat during normal driving conditions.

The other benefit is the recovery time with our radiator, once you are off of the throttle and get some cool air to it, the temps will drop quickly.

It is recommended that you will change your cooling(water/WW mix) every two to three years.

Harold
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      09-28-2011, 02:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
Yes, it is a direct replacement for the oem radiator, but slightly higher in coolant capacity.
If just slightly higher coolant capacity why is it so effective at keeping engine temps in line? I mean if additional coolant isn't the reason its so much more effective what do you attribute it to?

Also, will it go into a 1M with a bit of fitment/trimming?

Thanks!
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      09-28-2011, 02:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
If just slightly higher coolant capacity why is it so effective at keeping engine temps in line? I mean if additional coolant isn't the reason its so much more effective what do you attribute it to?

Also, will it go into a 1M with a bit of fitment/trimming?

Thanks!
It's the all aluminum design and better cores.

Yes, it should, but we are working on a direct fit version.
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      09-28-2011, 03:54 PM   #41
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Does anyone know if you can buy the "BMW auxiliary water cooler" as a stand alone part?
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      09-28-2011, 04:07 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken1137 View Post
Does anyone know if you can buy the "BMW auxiliary water cooler" as a stand alone part?
The part numbers are listed in post #10. Go to Tischer etc and you find them.

edit: oops, I gave the link at Tischer but I see it doesn't work. So just go there and search the part number.
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      09-28-2011, 04:19 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
The part numbers are listed in post #10. Go to Tischer etc and you find them.

edit: oops, I gave the link at Tischer but I see it doesn't work. So just go there and search the part number.
yeah, I caught that after posting and was about to erase when you responded. Thx.
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      09-30-2011, 01:53 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
Below are the N55's max oil & water temp ranges:

If the coolant or the engine oil overheat during operation, certain vehicle functions are influenced to the effect that more energy is available to the engine cooling system. These measures are divided over two operating modes:
• Component protection (Yellow half-engine light)
- Coolant temperature between 117°C/242°F and 124°C/255°F
- Engine oil temperature between 150°C/300°F and 157°C/314°F
- Result: The output of the air conditioning system
(up to 100%) and of the engine is reduced
• Emergency
- Coolant temperature between 125°C/257°F and 129°C/264°F
- Engine oil temperature between 158°C/316°F and 163°C/325°F
- Result: The power output of the engine is reduced
(up to 90%)
That is great info. Where did you find it?

Do you mind digging up the N54 and S65 info as well?
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