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      11-20-2017, 02:16 PM   #1
bionicbelly
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128 Engine Maintenance Questions

New to the group, so, Hi.

I bought a 128 a while ago sight unseen and drove it back to Iowa. My plan is to build it for NASA and SCCA Time trials for next year. Well, turns out this thing is an absolute pile, and I have some work to do before I even start prepping it for the track.

The radiator is leaking, and the car won't start unless I crank on it for a while. It is leaking oil from everywhere it possibly can, and is just in generally piss poor condition.

So, I am getting a to-do list together, and was wondering if I am missing any "while you are in there" items.

1. Replace all gaskets and seals. Valve cover to main seals, they are almost all leaking, so they are all getting replaced.

2. Eccentric shaft sensor (this is why the car is not running I think)

3. Clean vanos solenoids

4. New Belt, pullies

The car is also throwing some codes, P103a, P105b and P1056. They seem to add up to the eccentric shaft sensor, does anyone know if there are other possible causes for these codes that I am not seeing?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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      11-20-2017, 03:02 PM   #2
mabrahams
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Quote:
The radiator is leaking, and the car won't start unless I crank on it for a while. It is leaking oil from everywhere it possibly can, and is just in generally piss poor condition.
So while you are there; might as well go with a CSF rad.

Quote:
1. Replace all gaskets and seals. Valve cover to main seals, they are almost all leaking, so they are all getting replaced.
Usually the gaskets that fail are the valve cover gasket and the lower oil pain gaskets; also the valve cover oil cap gasket / ESC shaft gasket too.

Quote:
2. Eccentric shaft sensor (this is why the car is not running I think)
When you replace the valve cover gasket; it's the perfect time to replace it. Very straight forward to replace.

Quote:
4. New Belt, pullies
All straight forward, replace the belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley at the same time.

Join the track sub forum as well; there are a couple of us doing various builds in there.
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      11-20-2017, 05:35 PM   #3
02Pilot
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Get a scanner that can read the BMW-specific fault codes. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches, and in the long run probably a lot of money as well.
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      11-21-2017, 06:46 AM   #4
bionicbelly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrahams View Post
So while you are there; might as well go with a CSF rad.

Will do. Thanks for the heads up. I was going to replace with stock.

Usually the gaskets that fail are the valve cover gasket and the lower oil pain gaskets; also the valve cover oil cap gasket / ESC shaft gasket too.

All of those are leaking, as well as the oil filter housing, and the vanos solenoid o rings. This thing is filthy.

When you replace the valve cover gasket; it's the perfect time to replace it. Very straight forward to replace.



All straight forward, replace the belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley at the same time.

Join the track sub forum as well; there are a couple of us doing various builds in there.
Will do. Thanks for the heads up. I was going to replace the radiator with stock.
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      11-24-2017, 12:01 PM   #5
whiskey63
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Best of luck with your build. New to the forum, but it states I have to make 1 post and wait an hour before I can ask my car repair question in a new topic section. So this is my 1st post. Again best of luck with your project.
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      11-30-2017, 09:17 PM   #6
bionicbelly
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So, an update. I did the valve cover I talks manifold, and all other gaskets on in the head gasket set(minus the head gasket). Changed the eccentric shaft sensor, cleaned the vanos filters and solenoids, and the oil filter housing gasket. Spent an entire evening cleaning the filthy ass engine, removing all the accessories (alternator, ps pump, etc) and really getting in there. I also flushed the cooling system out half a dozen times.

So, I still have to put a radiator in, but I found out that since I have the n51, I probably can't do an aluminum radiator. Since the n51 radiaohas a special coating and a sensor to verify it is there. Stock n51 radiator is like 500 bucks. Anybody got a work around for this? Can that code be deleted when I get a tune?

Also, after changing the sensor, the car runs great.
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      11-30-2017, 11:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
So, an update. I did the valve cover I talks manifold, and all other gaskets on in the head gasket set(minus the head gasket). Changed the eccentric shaft sensor, cleaned the vanos filters and solenoids, and the oil filter housing gasket. Spent an entire evening cleaning the filthy ass engine, removing all the accessories (alternator, ps pump, etc) and really getting in there. I also flushed the cooling system out half a dozen times.

So, I still have to put a radiator in, but I found out that since I have the n51, I probably can't do an aluminum radiator. Since the n51 radiaohas a special coating and a sensor to verify it is there. Stock n51 radiator is like 500 bucks. Anybody got a work around for this? Can that code be deleted when I get a tune?

Also, after changing the sensor, the car runs great.
Since you're N51 and the rad is related to emissions/SULEV equipment, can't you see if the dealer will warranty it?

Or can you cut the chunk of the radiator that the sensor attaches to and just keep that plugged in somewhere it won't be disturbed ?
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      12-01-2017, 06:57 AM   #8
bionicbelly
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I did check with the dealer, but the car was sold 11/09, so the 7 year sulev warranty expired. I think I will probably try that trick though. Just cut around the sensor, and zip tie it up in there somewhere. If it doesn't work, I'm hoping that when I get a tune, they can get rid of that function, like the air pump and O2 sensors. I am definitely not going to pay $500 for a stock radiator though.
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      12-01-2017, 07:12 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
I did check with the dealer, but the car was sold 11/09, so the 7 year sulev warranty expired.
The warranty is 15 years / 150k miles for SULEV originally purchased in California, Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, Washington state, and Washington D.C.
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      12-01-2017, 08:19 AM   #10
bionicbelly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m_thompson View Post
The warranty is 15 years / 150k miles for SULEV originally purchased in California, Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, Washington state, and Washington D.C.

I there anywhere I can look this up?
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      12-04-2017, 11:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
I there anywhere I can look this up?
In your owners manual.
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      12-07-2017, 09:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
Get a scanner that can read the BMW-specific fault codes. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches, and in the long run probably a lot of money as well.
I can second that, just bought the Creator off Amazon for 40 bucks, best investment.
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