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      09-05-2014, 12:48 AM   #23
Ginger_Extract
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeo View Post
Kinda doubt you're going to be able to steer without serious rubbing. That's why I ran the 3" hose the way I did, but now I'm still debating 2".
What size hose is that?
Thanks.
2" ID, 2.25" OD.
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      09-07-2014, 07:36 PM   #24
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I took Ginger Extract's ideas and made some minor changes. I used the factory dust shield as he/she did, but ran the hose toward those front 'rubber air thingies' and cut a 2" hole in it.
I started to try to fab up an identical piece out of sheet metal with the idea to make something to direct more air into the 2" inlet, but have not gotten there yet.

This is the progress so far:















One nice thing about the factory shield and 2" size is that the air does blow into the rotor vent inlet.

-Joe
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      09-19-2014, 05:39 PM   #25
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Finished up the front brake ducts and based on a recent track event, I believe them to be effective (no uneven wear of the pads).













The do rub just a touch at full lock, but it's not a problem. Now onto the rear brakes!

-Joe
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      09-20-2014, 12:28 PM   #26
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This is how one guy did it on an Audi TT when I had it awhile back. He used a debris screen on a vacuum attachment.

http://ttschwing.fotki.com/brake_mod...g/?view=roll#1
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      09-28-2014, 06:46 PM   #27
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2009 BMM 135i  [9.50]
Trimmed and painted:




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      09-28-2014, 09:44 PM   #28
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^ I'm surprised you're not scraping the bejesus out of it. I know that even coming at my driveway at an angle, I scrape those little undertray splitters.
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      09-28-2014, 10:50 PM   #29
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It's about 1/2" below - so far it's OK in my own day to day driving. If it ends up being OK at the tracks I go to; then I will declare success!



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      09-30-2014, 09:30 AM   #30
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Looks good, too bad you can't get the hose directed more towards the center as it looks like it's still facing mostly on the rotor face. But unless you buy aftermarket I see no better way to get the flange any closer.
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      09-30-2014, 12:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
^ I'm surprised you're not scraping the bejesus out of it. I know that even coming at my driveway at an angle, I scrape those little undertray splitters.
+1, glad I'm not the only one who does this.
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      01-03-2015, 07:33 PM   #32
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Ive been struggling with brake pad fade during the last two lapping seasons, and trying various work around such as 0.5mm TI shims, F30 dust shields, and a series of race pads, with no noticeable improvement.

Thanks to Joe's input (OP), an his thread, I feal inspired to by his work... ;-)

I spent some quality time under the car this afternoon. I think there might be a way to route the piping above the splash shield. I determined that 3" piping would not fit in there, and probably get pinched or squeezed.

I then went shopping at the local Home Depot. Picked some sturdy 2" flex tubing, and 45* and 90* elbows from the central vacuum section. Then picked up 2 inch aluminium flanges from the electrical section.

My goal is to try to tap into the existing OE plastic ducts. I will then block the output port that goes into the wheel well to force air towards my flanges and piping. I will then route the tubing above the splahs shield and attach it to the either the tie rods or central control arm.

I have old E82/135i dust shields, and F30 dust shields to play with. The F30 shields are on the car at the moment, with little to no effect on cooling. I will either attach a flange to the shield to attach the piping to, or remove the dust shields completely, and point the piping to the center of the rotor.

If I succeed, I will snap pictures and share my progress in this thread, if OP doesn't mind ...

Edit: Making good progress. Bought some CAT-8 aircraft grade 2 inch flex pipe + aluminium flanges from AircraftSpruce. Also bought 2 inch "central vacuum cleaner" elbows, and flexible/trimmable funnels from the local hardware store. Snapped a lot of pictures which I will post soon ...
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 01-09-2015 at 01:12 PM..
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      01-03-2015, 09:46 PM   #33
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great DIY and I enjoy reading about your successes. I had brake fade on my 135 at Hockenheimring in Germany so I bought stainless steel lines, Ferodo 2500 pads, higher temp fluids and titanium shims...brakes were amazing afterwards and no brake fade after that on multiple trips to both Hockenheim and Nurburgring.
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      01-12-2015, 10:38 AM   #34
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I found a way to fit 2-inch CAT-8 aircraft grade flex piping, by tapping a hole in the OE brake duct, and routing under the belly pan/splashshield.

See pics below:

This is where I have tapped a hole in the OE duct that goes into the wheel fender...


These are central vacumm 2-inch elbows that I used my dremel on, to create a mouth, and "Steal" the air from the OE bumper duct...


... elbow fed through cut-out on passenger side OE duct ...


... I used a flexible rubber funnel, that I carefully and gradually cut to fit inside the driver-side OE duct, and funnel air into my 2-inch 90* elbow...




This is how I route my 2-inch flex piping, above the plastic splash shield/belly pan, on the passenger side...



I havent yet decided whether to attach a 2-inch flange to the brake dust shield, or just cut an opening in the dust shield, and point the mouth of a 2-inch 45* elbow towards the center of the rotor.

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Last edited by dcaron9999; 01-12-2015 at 12:18 PM..
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      01-12-2015, 11:33 AM   #35
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Wow, shouldn't have nearly the rubbing issues by going through the inner fender liner like that.
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      01-12-2015, 11:34 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
I found a way to fit 2-inch CAT-8 aircraft grade flex piping, by tapping a hole in the OE brake duct, and routing under the belly pan/splashshield. I havent yet decided whether to attach a 2-inch flange to the brake dust shield, or just cut an opening in the dust shield, and point the mouth of a 2-inch 45* elbow towards the center of the rotor.
See pics below:

..and this is how Im routing the air from OE duct ...


... I used a flexiblre rubber funnel, that I carefully and gradually cut to fit inside the OE duct, and funnel air into my 2-inch 90* elbow...
GREAT progress bud... you could probably take a coat of rattle can and spray the funnel black so it blends in better with the trim.

Regarding your hoses, one thing I did on my car was install flanges even over the plastic shroud that way instead of running a single long house, I was able to run 2 shorter hoses. This makes the hoses "serviceable" so if one ever gets chewed up, I can replace one end as opposed to replacing the entire length.

The shorter hose closer to the wheel is 2-ply hi temp (takes more of a beating) and the hose closer to the front was 1-ply normal temp since I don't foresee ever having to replace that. Keeps costs down.

This is the "outer" hose leading to the front of the car:



which is separate from the "inner" hose closer to the wheel:



You can see the flanges on both sides of the same trim which allows easy disconnect and removal if necessary. Just something to consider... and that OEM plastic shroud is replaceable if anyone ever wanted to go back to "stock".
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      01-12-2015, 11:42 AM   #37
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Also totally random and wishful thinking as I'm not sure what shape the collector piece needs to be in order to fit behind the trim but these OEM Corvette ducts are only $15/piece. I wonder if they might work for your needs? The outlet is 2.5" however...



http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...g-duct-8cc622/
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      01-15-2015, 04:09 PM   #38
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Finished my cooling ducting today. Hope this budget solution solves my brake fade in 2015... To be continued ...






















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      01-17-2015, 02:29 PM   #39
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Like where you put the duct in the heat shield - nice work!
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      01-17-2015, 02:57 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeo View Post
Like where you put the duct in the heat shield - nice work!
Thanks Joe.

The consensus was to put locate the flange closets to the inside of the brake rotor/hub as possible. I did my best but 50% of the air will still hit the rotor surface. Ideally. the duct should come in at an angle, oriented at the hub. Mine comes in at almost 90*, give or take a few degrees. I bent the dust shield a little to help with the angle.

Some better pictures of the finished project ...






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Last edited by dcaron9999; 01-17-2015 at 03:25 PM..
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      04-28-2016, 01:28 PM   #41
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wow, I like that routing. I am looking at some brake ducting for my 335 because the oil cooler I built blocks my driver side air duct. I killed off a set of HT-10s and seized my caliper last weekend from overheating.
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      04-29-2016, 11:12 AM   #42
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I've been in mini cooper scene for a long time and several brake ducts were introduced over the past several years.

Of course, the most effective design would be connected via hose, routed from either under the bumper or through holes on bumper. But this design was also quite effective





It would work with modified brake shields, it is solid enough and looks a lot cleaner.

Wish someone made such a kit for this car... hmmm
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      05-26-2016, 03:16 AM   #43
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I just finished my brake ducting project and I thought I'd post up the photos for you guys to see. I used the same 3" proper race ducting that you use in the V8 racecar series here in Australia.

I used tin snips to cut a rectangular/oval shaped in the stock backing plates then squashed the hose into an oval and fixed it using steel ties. This positioning means that pretty much all of the air goes straight to the centre of the rotor.

I ran the hosing underneath the strut (tight squeeze but doable), under the tie rods and cable tied it to the bottom of the sway bar. With this method, there is no rubbing on the hose from the wheel even at full lock and I gave enough slack so that the tie rod doesn't rub on the hose either. I am not sure whether this is possible on stock struts as they may be slightly longer and not have as much room.

I cut out the corner of a bit of the under engine tray and the hose fit through there. It sits behind the wheel arch trim. I completely removed the stock brake ducting on the left side of the car and cable tied an oval shaped funnel to it which the other end of the hose was fixed to with cable ties. On the right side, I removed just the brake ducting section and sat the oval funnel vertically rather than horizontally and left the stock oil cooler ducting in place.

I gave it a bit of a test run on Monday at the track. I am using Castrol SRF brake fluid with ECS SS lines, stock rotors and stock calipers with ProjectMu HC+/HC800 pads. At the previous track day I destroyed a set of ECS 2 piece rotors with these pads and on 235/265 AD08Rs. On Monday at the same track and with the OE blank rotors, Hankook Z221 C50 245/265 semi slicks and the same fluid and pads I managed 2 seconds faster than my PB (1.06.57) and also didn't experience any of the same brake fade even with 16 continuous hard laps.

Happy to answer any questions.
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      07-14-2016, 12:03 PM   #44
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I revised my brake ducts and went a different direction. I installed NACA ducts in my underbody tray.

View post on imgur.com
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