M3 Front Control Arms

[1speedbike]

Originally Posted by Evice

I am sure it is worth it, better than stock pieces.

Do you have any track experience or just spirited driving?

Mostly spirited driving. Only ever did one autocross in this car, some playing in empty parking lots testing the limits of the car, and a bunch of informal drag races on a "closed course" (completely empty streets with a lookout; I don't like street racing, but I see no harm in doing a pull on a completely empty street at night. I live in the woods where there are no real chances for innocent bystanders). Once I'm out of warranty, this will be a different story, but I figure the car doesn't need more problems than it already has by taking it to a track

I feel like this is a mod that you'd be able to feel even in day to day driving, which is the best kind of mod

[Evice]

Originally Posted by 1speedbike

Mostly spirited driving. Only ever did one autocross in this car, some playing in empty parking lots testing the limits of the car, and a bunch of informal drag races on a "closed course" (completely empty streets with a lookout; I don't like street racing, but I see no harm in doing a pull on a completely empty street at night. I live in the woods where there are no real chances for innocent bystanders). Once I'm out of warranty, this will be a different story, but I figure the car doesn't need more problems than it already has by taking it to a track

I feel like this is a mod that you'd be able to feel even in day to day driving, which is the best kind of mod

I've taken my 128i to track when it had 3000 miles on the clock, so I know the how the stock handling is.. Then I put in TC Kline Double Adjustable with camber plates and I saw how the car transformed at track, also day to day driving. However, I do not know what difference the M3 conversion will make. Also, now I have a racecar so not taking 128 to track anymore, may be in 3-4 years

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by 1speedbike

Mostly spirited driving. Only ever did one autocross in this car, some playing in empty parking lots testing the limits of the car, and a bunch of informal drag races on a "closed course" (completely empty streets with a lookout; I don't like street racing, but I see no harm in doing a pull on a completely empty street at night. I live in the woods where there are no real chances for innocent bystanders). Once I'm out of warranty, this will be a different story, but I figure the car doesn't need more problems than it already has by taking it to a track

I feel like this is a mod that you'd be able to feel even in day to day driving, which is the best kind of mod

The front tension rod will add more feel and responsiveness in the steering wheel. The wishbone will add camber, maybe not as helpful for street.

[szcyxzh]

Originally Posted by GaryS

The front tension rod will add more feel and responsiveness in the steering wheel. The wishbone will add camber, maybe not as helpful for street.

If i install the front tension rod by myself, is it necessary to do an alignment? Thanks Yang

[128_Pilot]

Originally Posted by szcyxzh

If i install the front tension rod by myself, is it necessary to do an alignment? Thanks Yang

I would, but why not do the wishbone too and gain the camber?

[szcyxzh]

Originally Posted by 128_Pilot

I would, but why not do the wishbone too and gain the camber?

You are right.

Looked at the Tisher's price, for the entire kit, that's 1000+ with rear shocks. If (highly likely) upgrading the suspension (e.g., PS) at the same time (2012 comes with linear spring rates which is good though), that's roughly 2500+ mods. Temped......

[szcyxzh]

Originally Posted by szcyxzh

You are right.

Looked at the Tisher's price, for the entire kit, that's 1000+ with rear shocks. If (highly likely) upgrading the suspension (e.g., PS) at the same time (2012 comes with linear spring rates which is good though), that's roughly 2500+ mods. Temped......

oh boy. forgot about a set of sick rims...

[1speedbike]

Originally Posted by GaryS

The front tension rod will add more feel and responsiveness in the steering wheel. The wishbone will add camber, maybe not as helpful for street.

I thought I read somewhere that the tension rods only make things stiffer, while the wishbones provide the steering feel as well as the camber. I forget where this was, but I'm probably wrong, so thank you for clearing this up!

[1speedbike]

Originally Posted by szcyxzh

You are right.

Looked at the Tisher's price, for the entire kit, that's 1000+ with rear shocks. If (highly likely) upgrading the suspension (e.g., PS) at the same time (2012 comes with linear spring rates which is good though), that's roughly 2500+ mods. Temped......

Is that 1000 for the front wishbones, tension rods, and headlight links? Or for the rear too? I saw a link for the whole front kit that's around 500 bucks, a little more.

[szcyxzh]

Originally Posted by 1speedbike

Is that 1000 for the front wishbones, tension rods, and headlight links? Or for the rear too? I saw a link for the whole front kit that's around 500 bucks, a little more.

You right. 570ish plus the rear shocks around 240ish plus shipping. Not cheap. And according to HPAUTOWORKS, he recommended to swept the entire kit

[1speedbike]

Originally Posted by szcyxzh

And according to HPAUTOWORKS, he recommended to swept the entire kit

Haha, he's selling the whole kit so i wonder why he's suggesting going for the full package

[szcyxzh]

Originally Posted by 1speedbike

Haha, he's selling the whole kit so i wonder why he's suggesting going for the full package

You now go back to the epic FAP thread...

[1Pirate]

Originally Posted by 128_Pilot

Yes one thing when installing the lower arms, some folks advise to lube up the one bushing end to help sliding them into the sub frame. When I did this it was still a SOB to get in which makes sense due to the fact the bolt that secures the OE one also pinches together the sub frame. Couple of well placed smacks with a rubber mallet to open things up a little will go a long way. Just don't go ballistic. Here is a photo (not a good one sorry) showing you what I am talking about. If look closely on the bottom of the sub frame you will see how they cut out a U shape to locate the control arm. After I opened this open a tad they slid right in without the need of a rubber mallet to force them into place. I was kinda surprised how malleable the sub frame was to be honest. Anyways, check your fitment and if are tempted to use a rubber mallet to force the arms in, I'd rather see you open up the frame a tad instead.

The process over all is very simple, and very easy if you are using a lift. Hope this helps... have fun!



The front control arm connecting to the sub frame (tension arm) as you can see in this photo (behind the sway bar) is made in such a way that it did not change the spacing due to torquing the bolt at the factory as compared to the lower control arm connecting point to the frame. This did not require massaging, the arms slid right in.

Thanks for the tips. I plan to do the install and get the alignment done tomorrow. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

[1Pirate]

Wow! I just picked my car up from having the alignment done. The combination of the M3 sway bar (which I already had), the M3 control arm kit (which I just added) and an alignment really transform the way the car feels and handles. Turn in and overall steering feel is much more crisp, with no slop whatsoever. Also I didn't feel any push from the car as I drove it hard through a few corners, although admittedly not as hard as I would have on an autocross or road course.

The M3 control arm kit is definitely a worthwhile suspension mod, especially coupled with the M3 sway bar. The M Sport version should have come that way from the factory.

[128_Pilot]

Originally Posted by 1Pirate

The M Sport version should have come that way from the factory.

[1Pirate]

128_Pilot, Thanks again for all your input on this mod.

[5teN]

Sorry to bring up a dead post but enjoyed reading though it.

Just wanted to ask which M3 Front bars you guys went with? E92 or E93?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by 5teN

Sorry to bring up a dead post but enjoyed reading though it.

Just wanted to ask which M3 Front bars you guys went with? E92 or E93?

The above is an E93 bar.

[1Fasst1]

Been reading this thread and learned alot about the front parts swap. Just got one noob question here, if the car is not being lowered why are the headlight links necessary?

[5teN]

Originally Posted by 1Fasst1

Been reading this thread and learned alot about the front parts swap. Just got one noob question here, if the car is not being lowered why are the headlight links necessary?

I assume the geometry of the M3 link is different (headlight link mounting point moved) hence requiring a different headlight link to operate correctly.

[1Fasst1]

Originally Posted by 5teN

I assume the geometry of the M3 link is different (headlight link mounting point moved) hence requiring a different headlight link to operate correctly.

Thanks, I couldnt figure that one out.

[1Pirate]

Originally Posted by 5teN

Sorry to bring up a dead post but enjoyed reading though it.

Just wanted to ask which M3 Front bars you guys went with? E92 or E93?

I went with the E93 (28mm) FSB.