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[JakeWJF]

So I got EC-7s in the group buy and thought a 235 wide all season was playing it safe with front fitment and at the same time giving me plenty of rubber to protect the new wheels... But now we're here.

Rubbing the strut (yay) so I have 3mm spacers on the way for ET42. Problem is I'm also rubbing the fender on big bumps, and that's about to get worse. So I will probably take all the camber I can out of the stock suspension, but that's only .2 left and .4 right right now so I assume I'll be at .5-.7 left and .7-1 right which may not be enough.

Anyone know whether I'll have to get some camber plates or not to make this fit?

[ShocknAwe]

How tall are the sidewalls? 235 on a EC-7 should be fine, esp on stock suspension, sounds like you bought the wrong tire.

[JakeWJF]

235/40R18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3. That's the right size, I just figured maybe Michelins run wide. I'd still be rubbing the strut with a smaller sidewall, it's that beefy rim protector. I think the fender rub was probably actually on the bumper tab. We'll see if we clear the outside after spacer tomorrow. Looks cloooose.

[135TX]

235/40 is almost an inch taller than stock fitment, its the sidewall height...

[JakeWJF]

From the FAQ sticky, I didn't pull this out of my ass:
"OE wheels, what are the biggest tires that will fit them?
225/40/18 is the widest size that will correctly fit the front 7.5"wheels and 255/35/18 is the widest correct fitting size for the rear 8.5". The sizes both fit the vehicle with no rubbing.
235/40/18 and 265/35/18 are sizes that will fit the vehicle but they will require a minimum of an 8" wheel in the front and a 9" wheel in the rear."

So, answer my question or should I buy new front tires?

Edit: Diameter calculator says 235/40R18 is .3" (1.2%) greater front diameter than 205/50R17, but it's the internet so somebody tell me where I went wrong?

Edit2: 235*.40 = 94 mm vs 205*.50 = 102.5 mm so I lost 8.5 mm sidewall and gained .5 in wheel = 12.7mm so total increased 4.2mm which is a little over 1/8" (.165) per side * 2 = .32" extra diameter. I think I'm rubbing the bumper tab. You guys seem pretty sure I'm clearing the fender, you're probably right, just hitting that bumper tab over big bumps, I'll probably be fine.

[FactorX81]

Dinan Camber Plates. I had the same problem with PSS in those sizes dinan plates were the end fix. They are not very expensive, don't wear the tires unevenly, and don't make any additional noise. It sucks, I went through the same thing buying a setup that supposedly fits with no issues and then having to throw more money at it.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by FactorX81

Dinan Camber Plates. I had the same problem with PSS in those sizes dinan plates were the end fix. They are not very expensive, don't wear the tires unevenly, and don't make any additional noise. It sucks, I went through the same thing buying a setup that supposedly fits with no issues and then having to throw more money at it.

Thanks for a real answer as opposed to the, "I don't know anything but you're probably a fucking moron" I had gotten so far.

Yeah so after 3mm spacer I'm almost definitely clear of the strut but rubbing on the bumper tab is significantly worse (although I am still clearing outer fender).

Sucks to see misinformation here even in the wheel/tire fitments and FAQ stickies... but that's life on the internet I guess.

[135TX]

Originally Posted by JakeWJF

Thanks for a real answer as opposed to the, "I don't know anything but you're probably a fucking moron" I had gotten so far.

Yeah so after 3mm spacer I'm almost definitely clear of the strut but rubbing on the bumper tab is significantly worse (although I am still clearing outer fender).

Sucks to see misinformation here even in the wheel/tire fitments and FAQ stickies... but that's life on the internet I guess.

Glad the 3mm spacer worked!
Sorry to have been not so helpful, my experience is with 135i so YMMV.
Stock size: 215/40/18 = 24.8" overall diameter
Your size: 235/40/18 = 25.4" OD
so yeah you are 20mm wider and 15.24mm tallerIts the combination of height and width not just the height as previously mentioned.

I personally run a 245/35/18 in front with a 24.8" OD, obviously much wider and completely unnecessary for street driven vehicle imo.

The solution is camber fixes everthing, you could go with either camber plates or the M3 front arms, with the M3 arms you get better bushings and thus steering feel, they are more expensive, but for some reason I dont think you need an alignment, so install may be cheaper and thus the package nearly the same as just throwing camber plates on and the alignment.
each should net about -.7 camber.

The cheapest solution would be to trim the bumper tab, and maybe to a light roll of the fender to be sure.

Any who good luck, from your friendly armchair quarterback

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by 135TX

The solution is camber fixes everthing, you could go with either camber plates or the M3 front arms, with the M3 arms you get better bushings and thus steering feel, they are more expensive, but for some reason I dont think you need an alignment, so install may be cheaper and thus the package nearly the same as just throwing camber plates on and the alignment.
each should net about -.7 camber.

The cheapest solution would be to trim the bumper tab, and maybe to a light roll of the fender to be sure.

Any who good luck, from your friendly armchair quarterback

It worked! I figured I could goad you into a real answer

M3 arms is another good option, thanks! Although I have read M3 arms push the bottom of the tire out instead of bringing the top in/rotating in place and don't help as much with outer clearance--know if there's any truth to that?

[135TX]

Well yes there is some truth there, however the m3 arms will do a bit of both. since the position of the McPherson strut wont change you will pitch in a bit at the top and push the bottom a little out. Although I think we are talking mm's here. you'd have to search a little more if the M3 arms were a desire over the camber plates for the above reasons you'd want to be sure before purchasing.

I can say that just dinan camber plates will likely be fine. But frankly going the cheaper/simpler route you can pull the alignment pin out and max out stock camber before purchasing anything and see if that gets you there, it just might.

[JakeWJF]

Originally Posted by 135TX

I can say that just dinan camber plates will likely be fine. But frankly going the cheaper/simpler route you can pull the alignment pin out and max out stock camber before purchasing anything and see if that gets you there, it just might.

Agreed. Shop quoted me $600 for plates, installation and alignment--that's much more than a new pair of tires. So for now that's exactly what I'm doing to do: try all the free solutions before buying anything else. Thanks again for your help.

[JakeWJF]

Listened a little closer and with 3mm spacer sounds like it's still touching the strut slightly--I gave up and ordered new front tires. 225/40-18 like everyone else and I'll put the others on the rear eventually. So I didn't 'lose' anything except the money I spent on spacers. Not bad I guess.

[Indo Rider]

Originally Posted by 135TX

Glad the 3mm spacer worked!
Sorry to have been not so helpful, my experience is with 135i so YMMV.
Stock size: 215/40/18 = 24.8" overall diameter
Your size: 235/40/18 = 25.4" OD
so yeah you are 20mm wider and 15.24mm tallerIts the combination of height and width not just the height as previously mentioned.

I personally run a 245/35/18 in front with a 24.8" OD, obviously much wider and completely unnecessary for street driven vehicle imo.

The solution is camber fixes everthing, you could go with either camber plates or the M3 front arms, with the M3 arms you get better bushings and thus steering feel, they are more expensive, but for some reason I dont think you need an alignment, so install may be cheaper and thus the package nearly the same as just throwing camber plates on and the alignment.
each should net about -.7 camber.

The cheapest solution would be to trim the bumper tab, and maybe to a light roll of the fender to be sure.

Any who good luck, from your friendly armchair quarterback

If you replace control arms I'd highly recommend getting an alignment afterwards...

[ShocknAwe]

Would highly recommend having the car towed to the alignment if doing the control arms.

[135TX]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Would highly recommend having the car towed to the alignment if doing the control arms.

Yeah i was thinking that the shop that did mine did not align afterwords, but it's been a year so I forgot. It would seem that if the camber changes, so too would the toe which would mean you'd need to have it aligned to rectify...

Good thing the OP just ordered different tires rather than listening to my BS lol

[JakeWJF]

Yeah it was all getting to be a little too much. I wanted a trouble free fitment from the beginning, even more than I wanted the tires I bought to work.

But the fronts now will go into storage and then on the rears when they're inevitably through. Tire rotation would've been a PITA anyway.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by 135TX

Well yes there is some truth there, however the m3 arms will do a bit of both. since the position of the McPherson strut wont change you will pitch in a bit at the top and push the bottom a little out. Although I think we are talking mm's here. you'd have to search a little more if the M3 arms were a desire over the camber plates for the above reasons you'd want to be sure before purchasing.

I can say that just dinan camber plates will likely be fine. But frankly going the cheaper/simpler route you can pull the alignment pin out and max out stock camber before purchasing anything and see if that gets you there, it just might.

?????

The strut and knuckle are effectively one piece. If you push the bottom of the knuckle out, the strut will go out too. The pivot point is the very top of the strut at the body.

Adding M3 arms will not increase clearance.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Adding M3 arms will not increase clearance.

I was under the impression that they actually decreased clearance despite adding negative camber.

[135TX]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

?????

The strut and knuckle are effectively one piece. If you push the bottom of the knuckle out, the strut will go out too. The pivot point is the very top of the strut at the body.

Adding M3 arms will not increase clearance.

So maybe I'm thinking about it incorrectly, if you push the bottom of the knuckle out but the length of the upper strut hasn't changed wouldn't the angle of the tire change thus pushing the bottom of the tire out and the top in. Perhaps not in as much as the bottom goes out; but the angle/ camber changes and since the strut doesn't move outward the top of the wheel comes in. The net effect could be that, the top of the wheel could be slightly closer to the out side of the wheel well, but am fairly confident I gained clearance when i did the arms.

However I recall we pulled the oe alignment pins and set to max camber so perhaps the arms marginally decreased clearance impossible to tell from my personal experience.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by 135TX

So maybe I'm thinking about it incorrectly, if you push the bottom of the knuckle out but the length of the upper strut hasn't changed wouldn't the angle of the tire change thus pushing the bottom of the tire out and the top in. Perhaps not in as much as the bottom goes out; but the angle/ camber changes and since the strut doesn't move outward the top of the wheel comes in. The net effect could be that, the top of the wheel could be slightly closer to the out side of the wheel well, but am fairly confident I gained clearance when i did the arms.

However I recall we pulled the oe alignment pins and set to max camber so perhaps the arms marginally decreased clearance impossible to tell from my personal experience.

There is no upper arm. Works as a straight line from the lower ball joint to the top of the strut mounted to the body.

[JakeWJF]

I really do appreciate all the help guys. It's too bad I had to get new tires but good thing I can use the ones I have in the rear when I inevitably roast them prematurely.