Dyno'ed!!!!!

TurboBullett@Ambient Thermal Management · 10-23-2011, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yuchi

I believe 275-285whp

If you get a chance could you do a dyno with the accessports built in dyno? It would be great to see if the power band is the same or similar and would go a long way in analyzing if the built in dyno calibration is correct! Thanks

SilverII · 10-23-2011, 07:03 PM

wow...geez

Broham · 10-23-2011, 07:52 PM

Congrats on these numbers. It was nice meeting you at Moore auto. This is my first time going out there for a dyno day. I was on the fence real bad about the capability of this engine, since I thought it'd need tons of work to break 400, but that 450tq was an awakening. I searched for the 135 forums as soon as i got back to do more reading. In the evo community you can achieve high numbers, but not on stock turbos and 18psi, it's just not going to happen. I didn''t realize the 135 can get there without upgrading the turbos and on pump.

Coming to the next dynoday? I'll be dynoing then and I'm sure you'll up the turbos or boost to break 500 tq!.

Experimental · 10-23-2011, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yuchi

Cobb Stage 2+ requires FBO

Very nice numbers!!! I'm impressed. I've got to wonder what the numbers at the crank are pushing!

It looks like Cobb requires upgraded FMIC, upgraded intake of any kind, and downpipes (catted or catless). Catback exhaust is recommended.

How are your coolant and oil temps running?

thez99 · 10-23-2011, 09:21 PM

If you're worried about heatsoak with catless dp's and an HPF FMIC then going back to the stock intake will do you no good, infact it will restrict airflow which will hurt your power up top. Especially seeing as you're running an aggressive tune, the turbos NEED the most airflow with the least amount of restriction. Honestly I doubt that you are actually "heatsoaking" with what you have on the car, I figure you're probably going by coolant/oil temps being a bit higher than normal which is to be expected with the tune you are running. Ive tried to say this plenty of other times, Ill say it again. If you want your coolant/oil temps lowered you need to worry about how this engine is primarily cooled, its a watercooled engine. The radiator and coolant mix we have in our cars is meant for stock power, once you raise that power curve dramatically, you need to raise the bar on your watercooling as well. This comes in the form of an additional/performance radiator much like the one included in the stage 2 bmw perf kit. Also, using a diff coolant ratio/mix helps alot as well. If you havent done anything with your coolant yet, than you're likely still running regular coolant. You need atleast a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Can also add WaterWetter from Redline http://www.hpashop.com/product.sc?pr...categoryId=286

Its too bad DCI's still get such a bad rap for causing heatsoak on 1ers that are tuned, its like its just the one thing that people instinctively blame

RnmEvo9 · 10-23-2011, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broham

In the evo community you can achieve high numbers, but not on stock turbos and 18psi, it's just not going to happen. I didn''t realize the 135 can get there without upgrading the turbos and on pump.

Coming to the next dynoday? I'll be dynoing then and I'm sure you'll up the turbos or boost to break 500 tq!.

Last time I checked, Evo's only have one turbo and 18psi is lower than stock boost. Stock Evo's peak at about 20psi and drop down to redline and they can make over 400awhp on stock turbo (if you have the 10.5 hotside like on the 05-06 Evo's). I made 414awhp/404awtq on a local dynojet with bolt on mods and E85 on my Evo9 with stock turbo. But yeah, in order to make some real power, a stock appearing turbo upgrade is the way to go really fast

, but then you'd have to build the block.

Needless to say, its rather dumb to compare different platforms as they make power differently.

135iiiiii · 10-23-2011, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thez99

Its too bad DCI's still get such a bad rap for causing heatsoak on 1ers that are tuned, its like its just the one thing that people instinctively blame

+1

BTW, amazing numbers OP. Congrats

Yuchi · 10-23-2011, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thez99

If you're worried about heatsoak with catless dp's and an HPF FMIC then going back to the stock intake will do you no good, infact it will restrict airflow which will hurt your power up top. Especially seeing as you're running an aggressive tune, the turbos NEED the most airflow with the least amount of restriction. Honestly I doubt that you are actually "heatsoaking" with what you have on the car, I figure you're probably going by coolant/oil temps being a bit higher than normal which is to be expected with the tune you are running. Ive tried to say this plenty of other times, Ill say it again. If you want your coolant/oil temps lowered you need to worry about how this engine is primarily cooled, its a watercooled engine. The radiator and coolant mix we have in our cars is meant for stock power, once you raise that power curve dramatically, you need to raise the bar on your watercooling as well. This comes in the form of an additional/performance radiator much like the one included in the stage 2 bmw perf kit. Also, using a diff coolant ratio/mix helps alot as well. If you havent done anything with your coolant yet, than you're likely still running regular coolant. You need atleast a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Can also add WaterWetter from Redline http://www.hpashop.com/product.sc?pr...categoryId=286

Its too bad DCI's still get such a bad rap for causing heatsoak on 1ers that are tuned, its like its just the one thing that people instinctively blame

No no, I'm not at all blaming just the DCI for heat soak. I would just like to see the difference between the two since there's so much debate about it. Heat soak on my DCI isn't going to make a huge difference anyway.

Yuchi · 10-23-2011, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Experimental

Very nice numbers!!! I'm impressed. I've got to wonder what the numbers at the crank are pushing!

It looks like Cobb requires upgraded FMIC, upgraded intake of any kind, and downpipes (catted or catless). Catback exhaust is recommended.

How are your coolant and oil temps running?

My oil temp is around 250-255 after "spirited" drives

Yuchi · 10-23-2011, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broham

Congrats on these numbers. It was nice meeting you at Moore auto. This is my first time going out there for a dyno day. I was on the fence real bad about the capability of this engine, since I thought it'd need tons of work to break 400, but that 450tq was an awakening. I searched for the 135 forums as soon as i got back to do more reading. In the evo community you can achieve high numbers, but not on stock turbos and 18psi, it's just not going to happen. I didn''t realize the 135 can get there without upgrading the turbos and on pump.

Coming to the next dynoday? I'll be dynoing then and I'm sure you'll up the turbos or boost to break 500 tq!.

When is the next dyno day? I will probably bring the GT-R

cooler2442 · 10-23-2011, 10:02 PM

Girl with a GT-R? Are you single?

Broham · 10-23-2011, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RnmEvo9

Last time I checked, Evo's only have one turbo and 18psi is lower than stock boost. Stock Evo's peak at about 20psi and drop down to redline and they can make over 400awhp on stock turbo (if you have the 10.5 hotside like on the 05-06 Evo's). I made 414awhp/404awtq on a local dynojet with bolt on mods and E85 on my Evo9 with stock turbo. But yeah, in order to make some real power, a stock appearing turbo upgrade is the way to go really fast

, but then you'd have to build the block.

Needless to say, its rather dumb to compare different platforms as they make power differently.

I wont even compare them seriously, they are too different. I'll be dynoing the fp black to see what happens next time, but I still have my eye on the torque loving 135. I won't build the block just yet, I'll just keep the tq below 400 for now. Not to digress, but what is the tq limit for these 135s? Obviously 450 plus is pretty high already.

RnmEvo9 · 10-23-2011, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooler2442

Girl with a GT-R? Are you single?

LMAO!!

FP Black huh? Pump gas or E85? Please say E85, then again you would have to build the block for that. Built motor + FP black + E85 = modded Z06 killer.

Broham · 10-23-2011, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yuchi

When is the next dyno day? I will probably bring the GT-R

I'll talk to the guys at the shop to do 1 more before the year ends. Final date not set yet. I'd like to see what the R puts down! Any mods on gtr yet?

Yuchi · 10-23-2011, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooler2442

Girl with a GT-R? Are you single?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broham

I'll talk to the guys at the shop to do 1 more before the year ends. Final date not set yet. I'd like to see what the R puts down! Any mods on gtr yet?

Okay sweet, I'll keep an eye out for the event. Midpipes will be on tomorrow morning. So it'll be nice to get a "baseline". It will have the p800 kit in the spring

cooler2442 · 10-23-2011, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yuchi

I will take that as a yes. Planning to visit Los Angeles anytime soon?

RnmEvo9 · 10-23-2011, 10:23 PM

What year GTR? I know the new ones put out quite a bit more power than the older ones. I saw an older model putting down 435awhp bone stock on a dynojet while I was having my Evo tuned that day.

Broham · 10-23-2011, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RnmEvo9

LMAO!!

FP Black huh? Pump gas or E85? Please say E85, then again you would have to build the block for that. Built motor + FP black + E85 = modded Z06 killer.

Yeah man I'll tune for e85 along with pump. I'm still debating between long rod 2.4 or 2.3 stroker.

Broham · 10-23-2011, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yuchi

Okay sweet, I'll keep an eye out for the event. Midpipes will be on tomorrow morning. So it'll be nice to get a "baseline". It will have the p800 kit in the spring

p800? That is going to be a lot of power on the streets. Gotta think though, will it be too much and lose the comfortness of stock? Probably not, but I have no doubt you'll do 9s.

Careful with that trans though, I'm not sure how it holds up to such tq

Yuchi · 10-23-2011, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RnmEvo9

What year GTR? I know the new ones put out quite a bit more power than the older ones. I saw an older model putting down 435awhp bone stock on a dynojet while I was having my Evo tuned that day.

2009...newer one is a beast!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broham

p800? That is going to be a lot of power on the streets. Gotta think though, will it be too much and lose the comfortness of stock? Probably not, but I have no doubt you'll do 9s.

Careful with that trans though, I'm not sure how it holds up to such tq

Not sure whether I want Switzer or AMS. AMS has the fastest built GTR right now.

AMS Alpha 9 claims it'll drive like stock until WOT

Experimental · 10-24-2011, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yuchi

My oil temp is around 250-255 after "spirited" drives

That's not bad at all. Have you done anything for extra cooling capacity?

Dr_Dirt · 10-24-2011, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thez99

If you're worried about heatsoak with catless dp's and an HPF FMIC then going back to the stock intake will do you no good, infact it will restrict airflow which will hurt your power up top. Especially seeing as you're running an aggressive tune, the turbos NEED the most airflow with the least amount of restriction. Honestly I doubt that you are actually "heatsoaking" with what you have on the car, I figure you're probably going by coolant/oil temps being a bit higher than normal which is to be expected with the tune you are running. Ive tried to say this plenty of other times, Ill say it again. If you want your coolant/oil temps lowered you need to worry about how this engine is primarily cooled, its a watercooled engine. The radiator and coolant mix we have in our cars is meant for stock power, once you raise that power curve dramatically, you need to raise the bar on your watercooling as well. This comes in the form of an additional/performance radiator much like the one included in the stage 2 bmw perf kit. Also, using a diff coolant ratio/mix helps alot as well. If you havent done anything with your coolant yet, than you're likely still running regular coolant. You need atleast a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Can also add WaterWetter from Redline http://www.hpashop.com/product.sc?pr...categoryId=286

Its too bad DCI's still get such a bad rap for causing heatsoak on 1ers that are tuned, its like its just the one thing that people instinctively blame

Why would you recommend 50/50 coolant ratio?????

Fyi 100% water will give you the best cooling capability you should add as little glycol as you can get away with without letting your engine freeze in the winter.

10-23-2011, 07:03 PM	#24
SilverII Colonel 40 Rep 2,334 Posts Drives: '11 335IS Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: DFW iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 BMW 335IS [9.66]	wow...geez
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10-23-2011, 07:52 PM	#25
Broham New Member 2 Rep 13 Posts Drives: soon to be 135i Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: va iTrader: (0)	Congrats on these numbers. It was nice meeting you at Moore auto. This is my first time going out there for a dyno day. I was on the fence real bad about the capability of this engine, since I thought it'd need tons of work to break 400, but that 450tq was an awakening. I searched for the 135 forums as soon as i got back to do more reading. In the evo community you can achieve high numbers, but not on stock turbos and 18psi, it's just not going to happen. I didn''t realize the 135 can get there without upgrading the turbos and on pump. Coming to the next dynoday? I'll be dynoing then and I'm sure you'll up the turbos or boost to break 500 tq!.
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10-23-2011, 09:21 PM	#27
thez99 Colonel 153 Rep 2,757 Posts Drives: 2017 Audi A4 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Arden, NC iTrader: (5) Garage List 2013 BMW 135i [0.00]	If you're worried about heatsoak with catless dp's and an HPF FMIC then going back to the stock intake will do you no good, infact it will restrict airflow which will hurt your power up top. Especially seeing as you're running an aggressive tune, the turbos NEED the most airflow with the least amount of restriction. Honestly I doubt that you are actually "heatsoaking" with what you have on the car, I figure you're probably going by coolant/oil temps being a bit higher than normal which is to be expected with the tune you are running. Ive tried to say this plenty of other times, Ill say it again. If you want your coolant/oil temps lowered you need to worry about how this engine is primarily cooled, its a watercooled engine. The radiator and coolant mix we have in our cars is meant for stock power, once you raise that power curve dramatically, you need to raise the bar on your watercooling as well. This comes in the form of an additional/performance radiator much like the one included in the stage 2 bmw perf kit. Also, using a diff coolant ratio/mix helps alot as well. If you havent done anything with your coolant yet, than you're likely still running regular coolant. You need atleast a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Can also add WaterWetter from Redline http://www.hpashop.com/product.sc?pr...categoryId=286 Its too bad DCI's still get such a bad rap for causing heatsoak on 1ers that are tuned, its like its just the one thing that people instinctively blame
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10-23-2011, 10:02 PM	#33
cooler2442 Brigadier General 480 Rep 4,154 Posts Drives: 1/18 Monte Carlo Blue E92 M3 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (6) Garage List 2016 Porsche GT4 [0.00]	Girl with a GT-R? Are you single?
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10-23-2011, 10:23 PM	#39
RnmEvo9 Banned 247 Rep 1,827 Posts Drives: 2007 335i Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Pembroke Pines, FL iTrader: (2)	What year GTR? I know the new ones put out quite a bit more power than the older ones. I saw an older model putting down 435awhp bone stock on a dynojet while I was having my Evo tuned that day.
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