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06-12-2011, 07:29 PM | #23 |
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No problem, hopefully it helps out anyone who wants to change their own plugs.
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06-18-2011, 08:25 PM | #24 |
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Thanks for the writeup! I might be using this soon as I keep getting a cylinder 5 misfire when I run at higher boost levels than stock, the injector on that cylinder has been replaced under recall/warranty but I don't think they changed the plug.
Joe - I think it would be helpful if you edited the first post to either indicate that the DIY starts at post #20, or to put the writeup and images in the first post.
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06-21-2011, 09:30 AM | #25 | |
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06-21-2011, 09:31 AM | #26 | |
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06-21-2011, 11:26 AM | #27 |
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Haha absolutely, I just grabbed it from the STL BMW CCA site... speaking of which, I need to actually pay some membership fees and become an official member.
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06-28-2011, 07:04 AM | #29 |
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Depends on a lot of things. If the car is bone stock then probably won't have to change plugs potentially up to 50-60,000 miles. If you drive hard, ever track your car, or increase the boost, typically around the same time as your 15,000 mile oil change would be more than sufficient.
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06-28-2011, 08:16 AM | #30 | |
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06-28-2011, 08:48 AM | #31 |
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I think the stock maintenance program calls for new plugs at the 45k maintenance service. Like Bogart said, if your running higher boost or pushing the car hard, then a shorter interval is advisable. Every 15k should be fine, I've seen plenty of people suggest 10k intervals for those that are heavily modified. I'll probably fall somewhere in the middle and change my plugs once a year.
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10-26-2011, 06:50 PM | #32 |
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Question about spark plug change
I'm having an issue changing my plugs and I hope someone could offer some advice. I purchased a 14mm 12pt socket on eBay that says it would work on my car (2008 135i) but I can't get it to seat properly. The new plugs I bought fit into the socket okay but it won't go all the way down on the plugs that are installed. Also, it looks as if my plugs are at a slightly different angle then the "tunnel" that leads down to them. I think that's what is causing the issue.
I've seen other sockets online but I went with this one because of the price. I tried pushing down pretty hard but I could never get it to seat. Does anyone have any suggestions other than "just buy another socket"? Is the slight angle difference between the plug and the "tunnel" normal? Thanks! http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Dr-14mm-...item3a6ba67907 |
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10-26-2011, 10:21 PM | #33 |
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I haven't done plugs on the n54/n55, but I am quite familiar with running extremely close tolerances with spark plugs in spark plug tubes.
If you do not plan on returning the socket, then I would suggest trying to make them even thinner-walled. How? A grinder. I bet it isn't as thin-walled as it needs to be and your problem is caused by the socket getting wedged in the spark plug tube. When you grind, only take off a little bit at a time. I wrecked a few deep well sockets I had before I got it right because I got greedy/lazy and took off too much at first..
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10-26-2011, 10:43 PM | #34 | |
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The - Hazet #4766-2 spark plug socket (3/8th's drive) works PERFECTLY. 135i Spark Plug replacement DIY... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602804 |
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09-05-2014, 10:53 AM | #35 |
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How long did it take you to change the plugs?
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