BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      06-13-2014, 08:27 AM   #133
Clovef
Second Lieutenant
 
Drives: 2011 135i DCT
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Earth

Posts: 280
iTrader: (1)

Whiteline got back to me and with good news. Whiteline has updated their bushings from yellow to black. Sounds like they are about the same stiffness. Whitline was releasing their newest generation and sent out a survey asking customers about the color that is wanted. Apparently for the most part people wanted black so they are now black and the material they are made out of has received some improvements though I don't know the details of those. I'll be putting them on sometime over the next month and will add impressions once complete.
__________________
2011 BMW 135i DCT M Sport, black sapphire metallic,Coral red tint, Apex ARC8, 235/265 Dunlop ZIIs, Ohlins coilovers w/ Swift springs, M3 front bits, Whiteline rear sub frame bushings, Vorshlag camber plates, Stoptech pads, custom exhaust, stud conversion, spacers
Clovef is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-23-2014, 08:20 AM   #134
c0ris07
Private First Class
 
c0ris07's Avatar
 
Drives: BMW 135i
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Australia

Posts: 104
iTrader: (0)

Finally an advantage of being Australian...just ordered a set of nolathane for $67
c0ris07 is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      06-23-2014, 10:01 AM   #135
odj
Registered
 
Drives: '13 135is + Mini + VW + Ford
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: DC Metro

Posts: 4
iTrader: (1)

This thread has been really helpful for me, so I figure I might as well add my experience . I installed the whiteline KDT917 bushings in my 135 this weekend.

Here are the tools I used:



Of note: E16 and E18 Torx bits, 17mm and 18mm sockets, 15mm box wrench, and an assortment of large sockets (22mm, 26mm, 30mm, I think...), and the almighty heat gun.

I put the front end up on ramps to distribute more weight to the rear, then jacked the car up from the rear subframe and placed jack stands under the jacking points on the two rear sides.

I recommend putting some ballast in the trunk. I put one of the wheels in the rear, but still had to apply force to the trunk area to get a couple of the bushings all the way out.



I recommend starting on the passenger side. There's more room to play with so you can get your technique down.

I'm not sure if all 135s came with this V brace, but you need to use a 18mm to remove the bolt going into it (already removed, toward the top of the pic)



Then use an E16 torx to remove the two bolts holding the other brace piece to the car (that's where the 18mm bolt threads into, shown here removed). They're a little bit of a pain to get to without removing the plastic fairing, but not impossible.



Remove the 17mm nut holding the bottom of the shock body in. 15mm box wrench keeps the shock from turning.



Then support the subframe (I started with the rearmost mounts) and remove the two E18 bolts holding that side in. I used a piece of 2x4 and my jack.

For the front subframe mounts, just use your jack on the pivot thing that comes down a bit, near the mount. When you move the jack around, you can use additional sets of jack stands to support the subframe

Unclip the sensor wires and keep them out of the way with a tie of some sort. Also remove the plastic clip closest to the mount before you start working. Otherwise it'll melt

Lower the subframe with your jack, and put an appropriately sized socket between the bushing and the body.



Apply heat. With the rears, I focused on the open area in the subframe and shot the heat in there, on the highest setting my little Harbor Freight heat gun had. Be careful of plastic things while you're in there.

Wait 'til it starts smoking, at that point it should start sliding out. One one of the driver's side bushings, I actually had to open the trunk, climb in, and bounce up and down to get that bushing all the way out.



There's less room on the driver's side, since the brake lines prevent you lowering the subframe too much, so I had to use smaller sockets.



Getting the inserts into the bushings is kinda a PITA even with the lube, so I used the jack, wood block, and 30mm socket to push the inserts in.



Here's how the rears sit installed:



And the fronts:



And the two side by side:



The whole process took about 2.5 hours, unrushed.

Be careful working around the brakes. I was not watching my hand when removing the E16's on the passenger side, and snagged the brake sensor wires with my wrench.



Fortunately, you can just tie the connectors together and bypass the warning lamp as a temporary fix.



Anyways, hope that was helpful.
odj is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-30-2014, 01:09 PM   #136
DietTab
Second Lieutenant
 
DietTab's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 135i
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA

Posts: 201
iTrader: (0)

Just want to add to this thread that you can fill the bushing holes on the smaller bushings with round aluminum stock cut to length to stiffen them farther (just find stock the right size and push it in). The holes are just there to add compliance.
__________________
08' 135i - Cobb Custom E70, FBO, 450LPH, LSD, Suspension bits...
(OLD) 11 Camaro SS - 10.20@135 naturally aspirated @630rwhp.
DietTab is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:20 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST