Alignment Specs with M3 E9x Suspension for E82

[hyphy1]

What are the new alignment specifications, if any, with the newly-added E9x suspension goodies?

--
FRONT: control arms w/ tension rods (and headlight regulating rod), upper links.
REAR: guide rods, rear toe links, upper links.
Michelin PSS' and rear subframe bushings upgrades, of course.
--

Should I calibrate to e8x series specs or e9x series specs? My goal is daily (and spirited) driving on freeway communtes. I have no intentions of "lowering" - i enjoy not worrying about my bumper getting scratched by a curb-step while parking.

Hold your flames... "constructive" recommendations?

[Stohlen]

They aren't gonna be any different in all likelyhood. Only thing that would be different is the camber spec. But since our front camber is technically nonadjustable, its not gonna matter. It is what it is. Toe is the same, caster is the same.

Noone would flame you for this, it is a good question.

[Dackelone]

Why not just use a 1M suspension settings are a guide. Most shops will even have the 1M alignment specs in their machine data base to look up.

1Addicts member Drivehard posted some good alignment specs in this old thread... see post #3

1M versus M3 stock suspension settings
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634707

[Everfly]

So if i have camber plate which give me -2 the. I dont really need the M3 wishbone and lower control arm isnt it?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Everfly

So if i have camber plate which give me -2 the. I dont really need the M3 wishbone and lower control arm isnt it?

Can you articulate the question a little better? The M3 front control arm kit is a VAST improvement over the oem setup. It is a lot more accurate and firm in feeling. Even if you have camber plates I still HIGHLY recommend upgrading to the front M3 bits.

-Mike

[Everfly]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Can you articulate the question a little better? The M3 front control arm kit is a VAST improvement over the oem setup. It is a lot more accurate and firm in feeling. Even if you have camber plates I still HIGHLY recommend upgrading to the front M3 bits.

-Mike

Thanks Mike. In my shopping list now

[wjk_glynn]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

...Even if you have camber plates I still HIGHLY recommend upgrading to the front M3 bits.

-Mike

Hi Mike,

Are there levels of M3 suspension bits you'd recommend for the 135i, one that's used for weekend canyon-carving and 3-4 trackdays per year?

Something along the lines of:

1) At a minimum you should do 'X'
2) Better would be to add 'Y'
3) Best should include 'Z'

Or words to that effect...

Thanks.

Karl.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by wjk_glynn

Hi Mike,

Are there levels of M3 suspension bits you'd recommend for the 135i, one that's used for weekend canyon-carving and 3-4 trackdays per year?

Something along the lines of:

1) At a minimum you should do 'X'
2) Better would be to add 'Y'
3) Best should include 'Z'

Or words to that effect...

Thanks.

Karl.

Hi Karl,

It really all depends on what your driving style desires. If you are a straight line kind of driver (from a dig) I would go with rear suspension first because it will help with wheel hop and it will keep the back end from being so squarely under duress.

1) Rear suspension (guide rod & upper link)
2) Subframe bushings, rear M3 control arm link, maybe rear sway...
3) front control arm kit, front strut brace, etc...

If you are more into the twists and turns of a road then you basically reverse the order because the front control kit VASTLY improves turn in feel and confidence.

1) Control arm kit, front strut brace, maybe a front sway (although I recommend stiffer springs over a sway)
2) subframe bushings, rear control arm kit
3) rear guide rod and upper link

I HIGHLY recommend doing the most of the stuff together because you will need to realign the car every time. Just my $.02 and hope that helped.

[wjk_glynn]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

...
If you are more into the twists and turns of a road then you basically reverse the order because the front control kit VASTLY improves turn in feel and confidence.

1) Control arm kit, front strut brace, maybe a front sway (although I recommend stiffer springs over a sway)
2) subframe bushings, rear control arm kit
3) rear guide rod and upper link
...

Thanks Mike. You've helped sort most of my shopping list (see following) . The only one I wasn't 100% sure I found was a "rear M3 control arm link / kit"

The minimum...

• Control arm kit (BMW E82/90/92/93 Front Control Arm Kit)
• Front strut brace (BMW 128i 135i Strut Tower Brace kit) - I actually got this from you guys just last month...
• Front sway bar (BMW OEM M3 Front Antil Roll Bar)

Next up...

• Subframe bushings (BMW Rear Subframe bushings)
• Rear control arm kit (???) - Is this it?

And finally...

• Rear guide rod (BMW Rear Guide Rod Kit)
• Rear upper link (BMW Rear Upper Link Kit)

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by wjk_glynn

Thanks Mike. You've helped sort most of my shopping list (see following) . The only one I wasn't 100% sure I found was a "rear M3 control arm link / kit"

The minimum...

• Control arm kit (BMW E82/90/92/93 Front Control Arm Kit)
• Front strut brace (BMW 128i 135i Strut Tower Brace kit) - I actually got this from you guys just last month...
• Front sway bar (BMW OEM M3 Front Antil Roll Bar)

Next up...

• Subframe bushings (BMW Rear Subframe bushings)
• Rear control arm kit (???) - Is this it?

And finally...

• Rear guide rod (BMW Rear Guide Rod Kit)
• Rear upper link (BMW Rear Upper Link Kit)

That is pretty much accurate. I haven't looked through your modification list but I don't suggest getting the sway bar before the other bits and pieces (subframe and rear suspension parts). I suggest discovering a spring rate to your liking (if you have a coilover set) and then add the sway bar if needed. People put sway bars on their cars before establishing a good spring setup. Sway bars should be icing on the cake, not the cake itself. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask!

-Mike

P.S. The rear lower M3 camber link is probably LAST on your list and you really don't need it unless you upgrade to an M3 specific coilover kit. My AST 4250s required the lower camber link so I needed the part. It is a little bit more stable and rigid than the stock 335 lower link but you don't NEED it. :-)

[dailowill]

Originally Posted by hyphy1

Should I calibrate to e8x series specs or e9x series specs?

Did you end up going with the 1M or stock specs?

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Can you articulate the question a little better? The M3 front control arm kit is a VAST improvement over the oem setup. It is a lot more accurate and firm in feeling. Even if you have camber plates I still HIGHLY recommend upgrading to the front M3 bits.

-Mike

That's not exactly accurate. The lower M3 control arm really only gets you additional camber, it's the other tension arm, and more specifically, replacing the liquid filled OE POS bushing that nets the increase in feel.

If someone already has sufficient camber, they need only replace the bushings in those arms, or the arms as a whole (with the HD versions, for example)...rather than the lower control arm as well.

[BBursey]

Hey.

I ended up creating my own specs based on a bunch of reading online and what I wanted out of the car for spirited street driving. The only change in final specs was increase of front camber to -1.6 deg with addition of Dinan camber plates. The shop couldn't get -1.2 deg on each side with only the removal of the alignment pin.

Hope that helps!

Cheers,
Bryan

[PrematureApex]

With the limited camber gain of the strut suspension, don't fear too much front camber. So long as your daily routine, or weekends comprise something other than dead-straight highway, it's likely you can run as much as -2.5 up front, if not a bit more, without seeing any added wear on the inner shoulders (so long as your toe is in check, of course).

I'd say -2.0 is a fine setting for someone only visiting the track a couple days out of the year. No detriment for street driving, no abnormal tire wear, and really saves you at the track.

now, if only there was a way to get some decent caster in these cars without resorting to a harsh (relatively) camber plate...

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

That's not exactly accurate. The lower M3 control arm really only gets you additional camber, it's the other tension arm, and more specifically, replacing the liquid filled OE POS bushing that nets the increase in feel.

If someone already has sufficient camber, they need only replace the bushings in those arms, or the arms as a whole (with the HD versions, for example)...rather than the lower control arm as well.

The M3 wishbone comes with a bearing instead of a bushing. That is not replaceable from the oem 335 wishbone. Now the bushing from the thrust arm, as you have said, can be replaced with an upgraded bushing/bearing and be fine. Is it worth it to me to have that extra bearing on the lower wishbone, yes, and would I recommend it, yes.

-Mike