Changing wheels faster. Any tips?

jeremydgreat · 11-10-2010, 02:30 PM

Hey all. So, I've been having a blast with my 135i at the track.

My only issue: It takes me so long to change my wheels! Right now, I jack the car up, grab my torque wrench and start wrenching on lug bolts.

Is there a faster way to do this? Like, something that attaches to a drill? I don't really want to go the whole air compressor gun route, but maybe that's the way to go? Sounds expensive.

What do you guys do?

pixelblue · 11-10-2010, 03:05 PM

faster is always better especially if you are lazy like me. sears sells compressors for as low as $50 but that maybe an overkill lugging around. maybe a battery power drill just to speed up the turning and then using a torque wrench to tighten

SlicktopTTZ · 11-10-2010, 03:12 PM

Get an electric impact wrench. It makes it NASCAR style quick.

the_steff · 11-10-2010, 03:12 PM

get a battery powered impact wrench like -

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...mpact-wrenches

Dackelone · 11-10-2010, 03:19 PM

Get a good Cordless Impact Driver. You want a 3/8th's or 1/2" impact gun. They will run about $200 for a good one. You also want to make sure it can have atleast 200ft/lbs of force.

I have also seen electric versions too. But its a pain to find an outlet at the track. Go with a good 18Volt cordless version.

FYI... a good air impact wrench can un-torque (CC) the wheel nuts around 600 ft/lbs and they can torque ON (clockwise) around 250 ft/lbs-ish.

SlicktopTTZ · 11-10-2010, 03:20 PM

My bad, when I said electric I was thinking battery powered, they work great! Just make sure to always have a few charged batteries, and always hand check your torque with a torque wrench.

Xaeryan · 11-10-2010, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Get a good Cordless Impact Driver. You want a 3/8th's or 1/2" impact gun. They will run about $200 for a good one. You also want to make sure it can have atleast 200ft/lbs of force.

I have also seen electric versions too. But its a pain to find an outlet at the track. Go with a good 18Volt cordless version.

FYI... a good air impact wrench can un-torque (CC) the wheel nuts around 600 ft/lbs and they can torque ON (clockwise) around 250 ft/lbs-ish.

Is 200ft/lbs really needed? I ask because I'm in the market for one, and they have sets on sale at Lowes (including a driver drill for 200). They are 18V and rated around 120 ft/lbs.

Dackelone · 11-10-2010, 09:10 PM

IF the old wheel bolt is stuck on there or... was over torqued... you will need some serious ft/lbs (Nm) to remove the old frozen wheel bolts.

That is why a good air impact gun will have a very high rating.

I am lookig at my Hazet tool catalog... their weakest air impact gun has a rating of: 250Nm going on and 350 Nm going off! And... their best unit/gun is rated at: 1,400 Nm ON and 1,800 Nm OFF! It is best to have a BIG tool in your tool box than a "small one"!

jeremydgreat · 11-10-2010, 10:13 PM

What's the difference between an impact wrench and a electric drill? (Dumb questions I know. Hey gimme a break, I'm a programmer not a mechanic.)

Dackelone · 11-11-2010, 05:39 AM

A impact gun will give you a hitting or jack hammer effect - as it twists/turns. To break loose the torque fastener.

A drill will just turn in a linear motion. Not much torque with a drill. Ever get a drill bit caught when drilling in metal. That because of the low twisting torque.

jeremydgreat · 11-11-2010, 10:21 AM

Ah okay. So, the lug bolts on our wheels should be set with about 88lb/ft of torque right?

I see a cheap, lightweight 12v cordless impact wrench for sale at my local home depot. Is there any reason to get a 200lb/ft rated wrench?

pixelblue · 11-11-2010, 10:30 AM

the old adage you get what you pay for applies here. more torque will help get those pesky nuts off easier. I say go higher and better quality

Eddy@ApexWheels · 11-11-2010, 12:26 PM

also convert your lugs to a stud/nut kit. You don't have to waste time holding the wheel in place and securing a lug. You just slap it on and shoot the nuts on with the impact gun.

jeremydgreat · 11-11-2010, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintpro21

also convert your lugs to a stud/nut kit. You don't have to waste time holding the wheel in place and securing a lug. You just slap it on and shoot the nuts on with the impact gun.

Great suggestion! Is there a good place I can buy a stud/nut kit? Anything to be aware of there (I 5mm spacers in back)?

nordique14 · 11-11-2010, 06:38 PM

I change my tires in my garage before I autox. I can do it in 15 minutes. Jack up the car by the back pad as that will lift both the back and the front wheels on that side. That way you are only jacking the car up twice. Also get the following:
-jack pad adapter
-wheel pin (if you do not get a stud conversion kit)
-good aluminum floor jack
-mechanics gloves
-cordless impact gun
-torque wrench
-mechanics gloves
-tire totes (if you transport the tires in your car)
-socket (plastic covered if you are worried about scratching the wheels)

Should be all set at that point.

LA-Bimmer · 11-11-2010, 07:12 PM

I got a simple "Chicago" corless impact wrench at Harbor Freight. It was like $60 and I figured I would upgrade later...that was 18 months ago. Works like a charm. I just use my torque wrench for final tightening to get it to spec. About 15 minutes including changing the camber with the Vorshlag plates.

jeremydgreat · 11-12-2010, 12:19 PM

If I have 5mm spacers, would a 75mm stud work fine? I'm currently trying to decide on a stud conversion kit. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Eddy@ApexWheels · 11-12-2010, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremydgreat

If I have 5mm spacers, would a 75mm stud work fine? I'm currently trying to decide on a stud conversion kit. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Yes a 75mm wheel stud would work perfect. They can accept up to a 12mm spacer.

To answer your previous question, ApexRaceParts.com sell a 75mm stud kit

aisthetes · 11-13-2010, 08:57 AM

Great thread. I'll be moving toward a separate set of track wheels/tires, so I'll add the cordless impact driver to the shopping list to make my life easier.

Looking forward to seeing your new setup in action at Qualcomm next year, Jeremy.

mineo77 · 11-13-2010, 09:42 AM

hire 4 midgets that pop out of your trunk and do it for you!!!

BerkTechnology · 12-07-2010, 07:50 PM

Use use a DeWalt 1/2" battery powered impact that is 5 years old and has seen more use than any of you would ever put one through.

The newer battery powered units are much smaller, lighter, and have more torque than my old hunk. Our crew chief just picked up a Bosch lithium 1/2" impact for about $250 and it works AWESOME and is 1/2 the weight of mine.

Use a breaker bar to loosen all 20 lugs 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground. Raise car and remove lugs with impact. Retighten with impact. Just spin on the lugs until they bottom out and the gun "impacts" for 1sec. This should give you 60-70lbs of torque on the lugs. Lower car and torque with torque wrench.

MikeinAlexandria · 12-07-2010, 08:20 PM

I use a snap on electric impact wrench. But for the track, a battery operated one would be cool! If you have one that allows you to set the torque, you would not need a separate torque wrench. As for jacking up the car, the coolest thing is an air/electric lift kit. You poke a button on the dash and four little pistons shoot down off the car lifting it at all for corners at once. I would love to have this on the Lotus, in spite of the weight it adds. Not sure who makes them, but they are really, really cool. BMW's jack works fine, though you might get a wheel up faster with an aluminum racing jack.

11-10-2010, 02:30 PM	#1
jeremydgreat Captain 76 Rep 676 Posts Drives: 2009 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Diego, CA (Carlsbad to be exact) iTrader: (1)	Changing wheels faster. Any tips? Hey all. So, I've been having a blast with my 135i at the track. My only issue: It takes me so long to change my wheels! Right now, I jack the car up, grab my torque wrench and start wrenching on lug bolts. Is there a faster way to do this? Like, something that attaches to a drill? I don't really want to go the whole air compressor gun route, but maybe that's the way to go? Sounds expensive. What do you guys do? __________________ 135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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11-10-2010, 03:05 PM	#2
pixelblue Colonel 140 Rep 2,234 Posts Drives: the silver bullet Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: northern virginia iTrader: (2) Garage List 2010 135i [8.90]	faster is always better especially if you are lazy like me. sears sells compressors for as low as $50 but that maybe an overkill lugging around. maybe a battery power drill just to speed up the turning and then using a torque wrench to tighten __________________ "I would quote everything pixelblue said, but you've already read it. Take it from someone who's put the 1 through its paces"
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11-10-2010, 03:12 PM	#3
SlicktopTTZ Captain 11 Rep 685 Posts Drives: 91 300ZX Twin-Turbo, 2010 135i Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Corpus Christi, Texas iTrader: (0)	Get an electric impact wrench. It makes it NASCAR style quick.
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11-10-2010, 03:12 PM	#4
the_steff New Member 0 Rep 29 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Wales iTrader: (0)	get a battery powered impact wrench like - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...mpact-wrenches
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11-10-2010, 03:19 PM	#5
Dackelone European Editor 10539 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	Get a good Cordless Impact Driver. You want a 3/8th's or 1/2" impact gun. They will run about $200 for a good one. You also want to make sure it can have atleast 200ft/lbs of force. I have also seen electric versions too. But its a pain to find an outlet at the track. Go with a good 18Volt cordless version. FYI... a good air impact wrench can un-torque (CC) the wheel nuts around 600 ft/lbs and they can torque ON (clockwise) around 250 ft/lbs-ish.
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11-10-2010, 03:20 PM	#6
SlicktopTTZ Captain 11 Rep 685 Posts Drives: 91 300ZX Twin-Turbo, 2010 135i Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Corpus Christi, Texas iTrader: (0)	My bad, when I said electric I was thinking battery powered, they work great! Just make sure to always have a few charged batteries, and always hand check your torque with a torque wrench.
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11-10-2010, 09:10 PM	#8
Dackelone European Editor 10539 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	IF the old wheel bolt is stuck on there or... was over torqued... you will need some serious ft/lbs (Nm) to remove the old frozen wheel bolts. That is why a good air impact gun will have a very high rating. I am lookig at my Hazet tool catalog... their weakest air impact gun has a rating of: 250Nm going on and 350 Nm going off! And... their best unit/gun is rated at: 1,400 Nm ON and 1,800 Nm OFF! It is best to have a BIG tool in your tool box than a "small one"!
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11-10-2010, 10:13 PM	#9
jeremydgreat Captain 76 Rep 676 Posts Drives: 2009 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Diego, CA (Carlsbad to be exact) iTrader: (1)	What's the difference between an impact wrench and a electric drill? (Dumb questions I know. Hey gimme a break, I'm a programmer not a mechanic.) __________________ 135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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11-11-2010, 05:39 AM	#10
Dackelone European Editor 10539 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	A impact gun will give you a hitting or jack hammer effect - as it twists/turns. To break loose the torque fastener. A drill will just turn in a linear motion. Not much torque with a drill. Ever get a drill bit caught when drilling in metal. That because of the low twisting torque.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-11-2010, 10:21 AM	#11
jeremydgreat Captain 76 Rep 676 Posts Drives: 2009 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Diego, CA (Carlsbad to be exact) iTrader: (1)	Ah okay. So, the lug bolts on our wheels should be set with about 88lb/ft of torque right? I see a cheap, lightweight 12v cordless impact wrench for sale at my local home depot. Is there any reason to get a 200lb/ft rated wrench? __________________ 135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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11-11-2010, 10:30 AM	#12
pixelblue Colonel 140 Rep 2,234 Posts Drives: the silver bullet Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: northern virginia iTrader: (2) Garage List 2010 135i [8.90]	the old adage you get what you pay for applies here. more torque will help get those pesky nuts off easier. I say go higher and better quality __________________ "I would quote everything pixelblue said, but you've already read it. Take it from someone who's put the 1 through its paces"
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11-11-2010, 12:26 PM	#13
Eddy@ApexWheels 444 Rep 1,658 Posts Drives: E30 M3, F10 M5 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (6)	also convert your lugs to a stud/nut kit. You don't have to waste time holding the wheel in place and securing a lug. You just slap it on and shoot the nuts on with the impact gun.
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11-11-2010, 06:38 PM	#15
nordique14 Major 53 Rep 1,477 Posts Drives: SGM 135i 'vert Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Sharks Territory iTrader: (5)	I change my tires in my garage before I autox. I can do it in 15 minutes. Jack up the car by the back pad as that will lift both the back and the front wheels on that side. That way you are only jacking the car up twice. Also get the following: -jack pad adapter -wheel pin (if you do not get a stud conversion kit) -good aluminum floor jack -mechanics gloves -cordless impact gun -torque wrench -mechanics gloves -tire totes (if you transport the tires in your car) -socket (plastic covered if you are worried about scratching the wheels) Should be all set at that point.
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11-11-2010, 07:12 PM	#16
LA-Bimmer Lieutenant 21 Rep 543 Posts Drives: 2012 E92 335i Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Louisiana iTrader: (21)	I got a simple "Chicago" corless impact wrench at Harbor Freight. It was like $60 and I figured I would upgrade later...that was 18 months ago. Works like a charm. I just use my torque wrench for final tightening to get it to spec. About 15 minutes including changing the camber with the Vorshlag plates.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-12-2010, 12:19 PM	#17
jeremydgreat Captain 76 Rep 676 Posts Drives: 2009 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Diego, CA (Carlsbad to be exact) iTrader: (1)	If I have 5mm spacers, would a 75mm stud work fine? I'm currently trying to decide on a stud conversion kit. Any thoughts or recommendations? __________________ 135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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11-13-2010, 08:57 AM	#19
aisthetes First Lieutenant 13 Rep 340 Posts Drives: 2013 M3 Competition Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Colorado iTrader: (0)	Great thread. I'll be moving toward a separate set of track wheels/tires, so I'll add the cordless impact driver to the shopping list to make my life easier. Looking forward to seeing your new setup in action at Qualcomm next year, Jeremy.
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11-13-2010, 09:42 AM	#20
mineo77 Lieutenant Colonel 123 Rep 1,925 Posts Drives: 2010 135i,1989 PRO3,2001 530i Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Portland,OR iTrader: (2) Garage List 2010 135i coupe [7.56]	hire 4 midgets that pop out of your trunk and do it for you!!! __________________ 135i coupe  6MT  TiAg  ///M sport http://www.rhominnovations.com www.musicarNW.com www.unitedBMWonline.com
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12-07-2010, 07:50 PM	#21
BerkTechnology Lieutenant Colonel 223 Rep 1,565 Posts Drives: Fast Join Date: May 2008 Location: Irvine, CA iTrader: (1)	Use use a DeWalt 1/2" battery powered impact that is 5 years old and has seen more use than any of you would ever put one through. The newer battery powered units are much smaller, lighter, and have more torque than my old hunk. Our crew chief just picked up a Bosch lithium 1/2" impact for about $250 and it works AWESOME and is 1/2 the weight of mine. Use a breaker bar to loosen all 20 lugs 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground. Raise car and remove lugs with impact. Retighten with impact. Just spin on the lugs until they bottom out and the gun "impacts" for 1sec. This should give you 60-70lbs of torque on the lugs. Lower car and torque with torque wrench.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-07-2010, 08:20 PM	#22
MikeinAlexandria Lieutenant 44 Rep 567 Posts Drives: 128i M Sport Convertible Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alexandria, VA iTrader: (0)	I use a snap on electric impact wrench. But for the track, a battery operated one would be cool! If you have one that allows you to set the torque, you would not need a separate torque wrench. As for jacking up the car, the coolest thing is an air/electric lift kit. You poke a button on the dash and four little pistons shoot down off the car lifting it at all for corners at once. I would love to have this on the Lotus, in spite of the weight it adds. Not sure who makes them, but they are really, really cool. BMW's jack works fine, though you might get a wheel up faster with an aluminum racing jack.
	Appreciate 0 Quote