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      04-16-2018, 12:49 PM   #155
berns
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Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
1:34 at Big Willow is moving. Went there recently for the first time in years. Ran 1:35 in the first session...and corded ANOTHER Nexen SUR4 in the second session. You're lucky you haven't run into wear issues. These tires are fast, but total junk.
Try the Sur4G next? I loved mine and they wore beautifully. I still have my 255s here that had a few days on them. They look good and I'll keep them around for drift scrubs I think.

The RT615k+'s have definitely started to wear down from 2 track days and road miles to/from the track. I'd say I have another 3 days on them though.

Next tire will be the BFG Rival S, 245 front, 275 rear, until I go wide. Then I'll do them in 275 squared. These BFG's run SUPER wide. 275s look like 305s. If you look closely, my buddy in the E46 is running them on a 9.5" wheel out back, compared to my 9.5" wheel with the Falken 275s.

Forgot to mention another change that has really helped make the car super neutral and fast. I'm now running 8k front springs and 12k rear, as opposed to the 6k's I had before. Front end feels much better, more responsive and the rotation is super predictable now. I'd like to keep this split, revalve my shocks and go up to 10k/15k but I'm going to leave the car as is now, because it's the best it's ever felt. Can't wait for -3.5* up front though! I think that'll be a game changer.
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      04-16-2018, 04:29 PM   #156
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Originally Posted by berns View Post
Try the Sur4G next? I loved mine and they wore beautifully. I still have my 255s here that had a few days on them. They look good and I'll keep them around for drift scrubs I think.

Have a leftover set of Hankook RS3 from 2015, will run on those and then figure it out. Probably going to try RS4. I have no faith in the Nexens. Cording tires every 1.5 track days fucking sucks, and is a massive waste of money.

The RT615k+'s have definitely started to wear down from 2 track days and road miles to/from the track. I'd say I have another 3 days on them though.

How do these compare to the SUR4G? No real data out there on the Falkens.

Next tire will be the BFG Rival S, 245 front, 275 rear, until I go wide. Then I'll do them in 275 squared. These BFG's run SUPER wide. 275s look like 305s. If you look closely, my buddy in the E46 is running them on a 9.5" wheel out back, compared to my 9.5" wheel with the Falken 275s.

The BFG's run wider than the Nexens? If so, holy shit. These 265 Nexens are way oversized for a 9.5" wheel. Going to try a 10" wheel fitment soon.

Forgot to mention another change that has really helped make the car super neutral and fast. I'm now running 8k front springs and 12k rear, as opposed to the 6k's I had before. Front end feels much better, more responsive and the rotation is super predictable now. I'd like to keep this split, revalve my shocks and go up to 10k/15k but I'm going to leave the car as is now, because it's the best it's ever felt. Can't wait for -3.5* up front though! I think that'll be a game changer.
We need to grab a drink in person and shoot the shit about these cars. Have some ideas I want to bounce off someone.
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      04-16-2018, 04:52 PM   #157
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Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
We need to grab a drink in person and shoot the shit about these cars. Have some ideas I want to bounce off someone.
Come hang dude.

My 255 nexens were wide but pretty perfect on a 9" wheel.
The BFGs are seriously stupid wide. I'll update once I fit them.

Can't believe how terrible your experience was on the Nexens. How many track days did you try to get out of them? Our cars are probably harder than most on street tires due to big weight, big speed and big horsepower.

The RT615k+ was not so fun at Buttonwillow on a 90* day when brand new. But I was really, really impressed with them at Big Willow on a 70* once they'd been tracked once. I did 10 lap sessions and was still grooving. Thing my PB was on lap 6, which is impressive.
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      04-16-2018, 05:51 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berns View Post
Come hang dude.

My 255 nexens were wide but pretty perfect on a 9" wheel.
The BFGs are seriously stupid wide. I'll update once I fit them.

Can't believe how terrible your experience was on the Nexens. How many track days did you try to get out of them? Our cars are probably harder than most on street tires due to big weight, big speed and big horsepower.

The RT615k+ was not so fun at Buttonwillow on a 90* day when brand new. But I was really, really impressed with them at Big Willow on a 70* once they'd been tracked once. I did 10 lap sessions and was still grooving. Thing my PB was on lap 6, which is impressive.
I went through 2 pairs of SUR4 rear tires in 3 events combined. Both times, the outside edge of the rear tires corded. Tons of meat on the rest of the tire. Seems like sidewall squirm and "only" -2.3* of camber killed them. This was with cool down laps. Never had rear tire wear issues until I used the Nexens.
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      04-16-2018, 06:56 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berns View Post
Come hang dude.
Yup, That's a conversation I'd like to listen in on
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      04-17-2018, 08:06 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
Someone earlier in the thread had mentioned the amount of steering input seemed to be too much vs the turn angle. I thought so too. Took me a little to find why, knew I'd read about it before ...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/attac...6&d=1395978128

From post --> http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=23


Basically the high static negative camber is fighting you. To make up for it you naturally go to a stiffer spring, which is actually the opposite of what you want to do. What you actually want to do is reduce static negative camber and go to a softer spring. Allow the camber/toe gain/loss to work.


Let's talk about this for a second. I've noticed it lately on my car as well, running -2.8* up front. Even with an M3 rack, the amount of steering input I need while daily driving is conspicuous. The car seems to handle fine on track.

So, what do I want to do here? Everyone always talks about getting -3* up front, wouldn't that just exacerbate the issue?

Berns, what's your take?
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      04-18-2018, 12:51 AM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
Let's talk about this for a second. I've noticed it lately on my car as well, running -2.8* up front. Even with an M3 rack, the amount of steering input I need while daily driving is conspicuous. The car seems to handle fine on track.

So, what do I want to do here? Everyone always talks about getting -3* up front, wouldn't that just exacerbate the issue?

Berns, what's your take?
Read through the links and data. Sure, bump steer is a factor. But running less overall camber to work the wheel less, at the expensive of grip, makes no sense to me. My steering feels perfectly fine and predictable to me. The car goes where I want it until the front end looses grip and starts to push. More camber will help that.

Run less static camber? Softer front springs? Why would I want to do that? Static camber is the starting point, and for a short wheelbase car that loves to understeer at the limit, both low speed and high speed corner exit, more negative camber will be hugely welcomed.

I'm currently stuck at -2.8* static, with Vorshlag camber plates and M3 front lower control arms. I finally have the car set up to being pretty neutral, responsive and controllable, so I'm confident that -3.5* will really send this setup home. The whole crazy soft spring rates everyone runs on these cars seem to make less and less sense to me as time goes on. It is a heavy, heavy car. I want to go stiffer still. Swapping the 6k fronts for 8k's got the rear end in-check, stopped the front from bottoming out, and improved front-end grip all around.

The 8k/12k split feels awesome, and I'd like to go up from here but keep the split. Might have my KWs revalved and go for 10k/14k.

About the camber -- I'm working with SPL Parts at the moment to test out their front lower control arms and make sure there's enough adjustment to go from -2.8 to -3.75/-4. Updates this week or next. I will say, though, these arms are BEAUTIFUL. More soon.

Last edited by berns; 04-18-2018 at 12:16 PM..
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      04-18-2018, 12:51 PM   #162
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I read through the in depth analysis that fer1x did, but wanted to get your take on it. I agree that stiff springs and -3* feels good on track. Predictable and holy hell does the car want to rotate now. Good to hear your experience matches mine.
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      04-18-2018, 01:07 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
I read through the in depth analysis that fer1x did, but wanted to get your take on it. I agree that stiff springs and -3* feels good on track. Predictable and holy hell does the car want to rotate now. Good to hear your experience matches mine.
And matches most other cars and BMWs on track... Cars and chassis are all unique but the general base of knowledge is still applicable. This isn't some crazy vehicle. I'm going to go from -2.8 to -3.5 and see how I feel.
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      05-11-2018, 11:16 AM   #164
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Berns, thank you for posting your build, it has been very eye-opening with regards to the front wheel sizing. Coincidentally, I saw you on The Smoking Tire podcast and freaked out when you were talking about your wide tires upfront, and didn't realize you were the author of this thread until I saw the Hoonigan video you posted.
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      05-14-2018, 04:55 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodie217 View Post
Berns, thank you for posting your build, it has been very eye-opening with regards to the front wheel sizing. Coincidentally, I saw you on The Smoking Tire podcast and freaked out when you were talking about your wide tires upfront, and didn't realize you were the author of this thread until I saw the Hoonigan video you posted.
Thanks for the good words, dude! Happy to help out the community.

Guess it's time for an update?

I just got back from another annoying day at Buttonwillow, but with 95* temps and worn down, and WAY inferior Falken RT615k+ (compared to the Nexen Sur4G I ran at first), I once again did not beat my record. Next up for rubber will be the BFG Rival S, which is supposed to be on-par with the RE71R, so hopefully those and some cooler weather, and I'll be where I want to.

Best of the day for me was a 2:00.7, and I got slower as the day got hotter and my tires got far worse. I was the fastest of my crew of 6 or so E46 M3's, so there's that!

My biggest success of the day, though, was finally being able to run full sessions at 100%, with no limp mode from high oil temps! Last week, I finally pulled the stock oil cooler and thermostat out, and assembled my custom twin oil cooler setup. I didn't want to spend $1600+ on the ER kit, so I ordered two Setrab cores, some Vibrant braided line, AN fittings and the Motiv thermostat delete plate, and went for it.

This was an easy day and a half of work for me, from teardown to test fitting, to measuring, cutting, drilling and bending the aluminum brackets. It's not the most beautiful setup, but this is all function, and I'm no fabricator, so you best believe I was super stoked that this actually worked out!

Cruising highway temps are now a balmy 180*, and out in 95* heat, running all out for 15-minutes at a time, oil temps never went above 255*. I'm sure with some ducting and diverting, and bigger bumper openings, I could improve still, but this'll do for now.

Stock 12-row cooler vs the two Setrab 19-rows.





Motiv delete plate with AN barb fittings. Perfect, leak-free fitment.



Making AN lines is not fun at all. Will be happy if I never have to do it, ever again.



Mounted in their new homes, lines run! I cut the center attaching line too long, but really didn't want to do cut the fitting off and start over just to appease my annoyance.



Looks pretty good to me. I'd like to trim my OEM intake snorkel to fit still. One day...



And, they fit perfectly symmetrical behind each bumper inlet.





E36 track bro presented a cool photo op.



I also got tired of being limited to -2.8* front camber, so I reached out to SPL Parts and they said their front lower control arms would do the trick. I now have the ability to run anywhere from -3 to -4.5*, and they're beautiful pieces.





And the thing everyone said wouldn't work on a stock fender non-M e82.
18x9 +37 265/35/18
Knowing now that I can fit a 265 up front on the 9", I wish I kept my square 9" setup to do 265 squared.



Last edited by berns; 05-14-2018 at 07:13 PM..
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      05-14-2018, 06:47 PM   #166
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      05-14-2018, 06:59 PM   #167
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      05-14-2018, 07:09 PM   #168
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Nice update. You have any additional pictures of the oil cooler mounting brackets? Or how you made them?
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      05-14-2018, 09:23 PM   #169
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What have you done different to everyone else suggesting you can't fit 265's up front?

I'm having a debate with my workshop about fitting 245's upfront so I am curious.
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      05-14-2018, 09:31 PM   #170
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Man, I'm sure you'd figure out a way to run 305's if you did a 1M conversion lol
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      05-14-2018, 09:45 PM   #171
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Originally Posted by berns View Post
Here's another in-car vid from Buttonwillow CW13. Really shows off how awesome, direct, and quick the AKG shifter is.

After some studying and talking to other track friends, it looks like my sub-2 lap is in Bus Stop and obviously that last corner wasn't the cleanest... Glad I saved it though!

Wow that's some talented driving!! Your build is awesome. What's your IG?
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      05-14-2018, 09:47 PM   #172
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Man, I'm sure you'd figure out a way to run 305's if you did a 1M conversion lol
Pretty sure that's doable, I squeezed some 295s up front on my 1M frontend.

Your car is pretty much the perfect 135i at this point, not much else you can do - so awesome man!

With sub 80* weather you'll be in the high 1:58s for sure. Seat time!
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      05-14-2018, 10:52 PM   #173
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Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Nice update. You have any additional pictures of the oil cooler mounting brackets? Or how you made them?
Trying not to give away all my high quality secrets.
Both drivers and pass side have a small threaded hole that uses a 10mm bolt secure the factory oil cooler and "brake" ducting. From those holes, I mounted a piece of aluminum and mounted the oil cooler to it with the proper Setrab bracket. For way more support, I then made a bit of an L bracket. On the drivers side I used the upper stud/nut to the frame rail holding the crash beam on, but on the pass side the horn is in the way, so I actually used the outer horn's stud as the hanging location on that side. These things aren't going anywhere, ever.




Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaDog View Post
What have you done different to everyone else suggesting you can't fit 265's up front?

I'm having a debate with my workshop about fitting 245's upfront so I am curious.
The one thing I did differently was not listen to every thread I found with someone repeating that the biggest you could fit on this car was an 18x8.5 +45 with a 245 tire. Even Apex told me that when I called and told them what I thought would work. They said no way.

Really not much to it. Run camber, make sure you have clearance, get your spring height correct, measure. I'm definitely at the limit now, and this isn't a setup I'd run on a daily, there is some rubbing at times, but nothing that bothers me or damages anything. For the record, my setup is KW dampers, 7" springs, no helpers, perch sits above the tire enough not to interfere. With 255s I fit with no spacer on an 18x9 +42, I ran a 3mm spacer just for piece of mind, but with the 265s I'm running a 5mm spacer for added breathing room, effective offset is now +37.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
Wow that's some talented driving!! Your build is awesome. What's your IG?
Thanks man. @bernooo

Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
Man, I'm sure you'd figure out a way to run 305's if you did a 1M conversion lol
Ha, if I do 1M bits, I'll probably run 18x10 +25 squared with BFG Rival S 275s, they run insanely wide and look like 305s honestly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
Pretty sure that's doable, I squeezed some 295s up front on my 1M frontend.

Your car is pretty much the perfect 135i at this point, not much else you can do - so awesome man!

With sub 80* weather you'll be in the high 1:58s for sure. Seat time!
Yeah, that's what everyone was saying yesterday. It was a hot, slow day out there, and these tires are seriously fucked. Fresh rubber and a small adjustment to my rear sway bar and I think the car will be doing what I want.

Last edited by berns; 05-14-2018 at 11:08 PM..
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      05-15-2018, 02:39 AM   #174
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Itīs crazy that you can run These sizes..
But it seems the tracks you run the car isnt bottoming out... I now run 8,5x18 ET38 with a 235/40/18 AD08R (which has a big sidewall) and it rubbed without aggressiv Fender work! Of course only during crazy bumps or compressions, but for me personally i dont want to rub no matter where...

Before i ran 245/35/18 Pilot Super Sport on the same rim, they fit fine...

But i can see that a height of 35 maybe would be better... But there isnt any good tire in 245/35 besides the Pilot Sport Cup 2 which got released just the last days.
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      05-15-2018, 08:28 AM   #175
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i like your brackets for the oil coolers, i have 1 19 row setrab that will be installing when i pull the car apart next month, debating on keeping the stock and adding the setrab or just removing the stock and use the single setrab and assume later i'll be adding a second. i have a 1m rep bumper too so have to figure out how the ducts vary as opposed to stock bumper.
i have 255/35/18 on right now on 18x8.5 et38 and think i could squeeze a 265 up front but not on the current 8.5 wheels, its doable just like you said but you need to know all your measurements. i have an extra set of rear apex in 9.5 i thought about possibly using longer studs and putting a 20mm space on just to see if it is doable.
setup looks great and thats some good driving.
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      05-15-2018, 10:15 AM   #176
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Good call going on the 19 row by the way. I put a 25 row on my driver's side and it's a monstrosity. I had to trim the bumper significantly.
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