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11-15-2011, 08:27 AM | #23 |
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That is my understanding as well. The M3 bushings are substantially harder and fit much tighter on the bar than the stock sway bar bushings as well as the Performance FSBs so I've heard.
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11-15-2011, 01:17 PM | #24 | |
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Mounting brackets (2) 31352283037 / 31-35-2-283-037 $10.10 each Bottom Swaybar bushings (2) 31352283967 / 31-35-2-283-967 $7.36 each Top Swaybar bushings (2) 31352283968 / 31-35-2-283-968 $10.93 each Pretty happy with the stock bar, but it couldn't hurt to perhaps try the firmer bushings. To swap them out is only $56.78 from my local shop. If that wasn't enough help for middle off, I could always add the E93 bar later. (another chance to wrench lol) Thinking that if the bushings are that much more firm, that might be enough for what I am doing? Eric |
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11-15-2011, 02:20 PM | #25 | |
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I would think adding the M3 bushings and brackets would improve the OEM sway bar, but not to the same extent as adding one of the M3 bars as well since they also have built in bump stops. I wonder if anyone has tried just adding the M3 bushings and brackets to the OEM sway bar.
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11-15-2011, 03:06 PM | #26 |
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Thanks 1Pirate, good info.
Has anyone had a shop quote swapping out the control arms and adding Dinan camber plates? Starting to focus on if I should farm out the work, or enlist my buddies help with his four post lift lol Last edited by 128_Pilot; 11-15-2011 at 04:46 PM.. |
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11-15-2011, 09:30 PM | #27 |
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get your buddy's lift. Control arms and sway shouldn't take more than hour once on the lift and camber plates maybe another hour each. Shop will charge you like 6 hours labor for what should be 4 max.
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11-15-2011, 10:19 PM | #28 | |
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If you are simply looking for more camber, the lower wishbones will do. |
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11-16-2011, 07:29 AM | #29 | |
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constitutes
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BTW do you know what really constitutes, or makes up the M Sport Pkg on the 128i's? I know it is .6" lower than a stock E82, and the suspension is much tighter also than the base E82. So I wonder if the struts are different, sway bars, etc for the M Pkg. Lowering the car alone would not make the car handle so much better than a stock E82 alone IMO. Guess I need to pull a wheel and look at the tension bar and see if it is a stock E82, or perhaps a M? From what I can tell, the M Pkg is; Lowering springs, M steering wheel, front and rear bumpers, labeled door sills and wheels. I ordered mine with electric sport seats, active headlights, and back up warning, and that's about it. (didn't want all the bells & stuff like iDrive, radio etc, wanted a driver and I hardly ever listen to music while driving so the stock one is more than fine) Any input would be most welcomed, thanks! Eric |
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11-16-2011, 10:12 AM | #30 | |
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The suspension control arms should be the same. M just sits lower with different springs. The struts and shocks might even be the same - you can reference realoem.com for part#'s |
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11-16-2011, 10:57 AM | #31 | |
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Well looks like the front sway bars are diff for the E82 vs the E82 with M Pkg. (E92 is yet a dif part) The struts and shocks are also dif between the E82 & E82 with M Pkg There is no distinction made between the E82 & E82 with M Pkg for the tension arms and wishbones. So this confirms that there is more to it than just springs that makes up the difference between the base E82 and the E82 with M Sport Pkg. I have driven both back to back and to me the difference is substantial. And it's also nice to know the extra coin really did make a difference in the build. So I will swap out both control arms, add the Dinan camber plates and slap on some P245/35-18's on all four corners and see how things end up. I am thinking (hoping) that I will end up with even a better daily driver that will provide some extra smiles ! |
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11-16-2011, 08:35 PM | #32 |
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128 Pilot - I love your enthusiasm, but I don't see how you could go about changing all the peripheral stuff like control arms and bushings without first working on the basics, which is the suspension. Whether you go for coilovers, or simply better dampers and springs, I think that should be first. The added parts you are looking at will only accentuate the weakness of the suspension. I had the MSport, added a sway bar and non runflats, and the car was worse than stock until I changed the dampers and springs.
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11-17-2011, 05:40 PM | #33 | |
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Loose the RFT's, add in some lighter wheels (6lbs lighter than OE, that's HUGH unsprung dif)), wider/squared summer tires, slap in a tension bar, remove tower pin, maybe couple of camber plate's, and call it good for my daily driver. I've driven worst, and let's face it... this is not a M3 or Porsche. It is a fun little car, and even with a few mod's, I think a good bang for the buck. I am enjoyin' the hell out of mine! Anyways, going to to the work myself and drive it over back to my shop and have them dial in alignment Here is the specs I want for the alignment next Monday. Front camber -1.5 degree Front toe-out 1/16" = 0.174° Total of 0.87 per side Front caster 7 degrees -------------------------------------- Rear camber -2.0 degree Rear toe-in 3/16" = 0.1875° Does that sound about right to you fellas? And AudiS4... bout those coilover's, I sell them all the time and think KW V2's would be kewl.. perhaps even Öhlins. But I will enjoy the M package I paid for first... maybe even wear it out, and then pull the trigger on coilover's, rear bar, rear bushings. Thanks everyone again! Last edited by 128_Pilot; 11-17-2011 at 05:48 PM.. Reason: Can't spell, nor smart enough to use spell check |
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11-17-2011, 06:27 PM | #34 |
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keep us posted on your observations
do you do any autocross or track events? it would be great for someone to discuss the tradeoffs between street vs. track on their mods.
Have Fun
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11-17-2011, 06:53 PM | #35 | |
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EDIT: I suppose if you're installing the Dinan camber plates and M3 arms in the interim, you can get there. I'm guessing that's what you're doing before next Monday?
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11-17-2011, 07:07 PM | #36 | |
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BMW 135i on Nürburgring Nordschleife |
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11-19-2011, 11:00 AM | #37 |
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M3 bits
Collected all the M3 bits now, and will install them myself Sunday afternoon for a little enjoyment. We'll see how crazy the five mile drive over to the shop will be to get the alignment. Updates to follow.
Last edited by 128_Pilot; 11-22-2011 at 12:03 PM.. Reason: New link for photos |
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11-19-2011, 11:40 AM | #38 | |
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Can't really tell a difference as I had that done in conjunction w/new control arms and dampers.
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11-21-2011, 08:44 AM | #39 |
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Arms installed
Well with the help of my buddy and his lift at home, we swapped out the control arm's and the toe wasn't all that bad. Total time 2 hours and we weren't rushing. (was quoted 3.6 hours by my local BMW dealership) Car sitting static, I could see the added camber right away. The five mile drive over to the dealership wasn't bad at all. Matter of fact I was surprised at how straight the car tracked w/o an alignment. Over all, not hard and I had fun doing it myself. Car is on the rack getting a alignment now. Will update more later.
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11-21-2011, 08:24 PM | #40 |
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Alignment print out
This is what I was shooting for,
Front camber -1.5 degree Front toe-out 1/16" Front caster 7 degrees Rear camber -2.0 degree Rear toe-in 3/16" Here is my alignment print out Looks like front toe is positive (toed in wtf) 1/16" = .14 degrees What was 3/16 again in degrees? Last edited by 128_Pilot; 11-24-2011 at 11:37 AM.. Reason: Slow |
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11-21-2011, 08:52 PM | #41 |
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I'll quote myself and just say I'm not really surprised. And if you're worried about the imbalance left to right, don't be - too small of a difference to have much effect. I max camber out even if it's a bit uneven, so at least the greater side provides a tiny bit more grip. Never had any problems with uneven wear side to side.
Last edited by Xaeryan; 11-21-2011 at 09:00 PM.. |
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11-21-2011, 09:23 PM | #42 |
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Also this is the alignment I ended up with using both control arms and the Dinan camber plates with the locating pins removed.
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11-21-2011, 11:24 PM | #43 |
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Gotcha, didn't see that you already had the plates too. Actually, I read it wrong anyway since they are using degrees and minutes to measure. The weaker side you got about -1.5 degrees, and the other side is about -1.75 degrees. Makes more sense considering the plates, although I would've thought they could have gotten closer to -1.5 on the one side.
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11-22-2011, 07:20 AM | #44 |
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Well... can someone take me to school here?
Looks like Xaeryan has the conversion right for the front camber. But the rear toe is not close to what I had asked for (3/16" in) and the front toe is less then than the 1/16" out that I had asked for? Can someone double check me on this please? And would you be happy with this alignment for your daily driver? |
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