128i Issues Over 100k

[Bimmerguy3]

Hey guys so not sure how many people are in this club with me but this week driving from Florida to NC and back put the 128i over 100k to 104k now. I have an issue was hoping someone can help shed some light on. I recently have had an issue that has me stumped. Whenever I'm driving and I'm coasting from 60 down to a red light or even constantly driving down the road it feels as if the wheel is loose (I have tightened and retightened the wheel), also under braking the wheel vibrates and you can feel the right front wheel rotating, also you have a lot of vibration in the pedal. I lifted the car up and I have no play in any of the wheels. Sometimes it feels like there is a notch in the wheel and you can feel it hit the ground and the wheel rotating, also the wheel feels very, "unsure" not sure how else to word it over any kind of bumps or imperfections in the road. I've never experienced this before and am not sure where to go with it. I'm currently thinking wheel bearing or tie rod end but can't seem to figure it out. Any insight appreciated, also if there is a list I should just be knocking out now that I'm at 100k please point me in the right direction, if it were my E46 again I would be doing lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends and cooling system refresh. I've been trying to search to no avail as it seems like most people aren't riding their 1er as hard as me, thanks in advance.

[Bimmerguy3]

Also I have had the issue with two sets of rims on both balanced, the 18s the problem was more announced and the 17s I'm running now the situation seems to be getting worse.

[cmcdonald]

My 1er is still too new to be experiencing this, but my previous car (2006 Cadillac DTS) had these exact symptoms. It turned out to be lower control arm bushings. So I think that should be a good place to look first. At that mileage, taking a look at the tie rod ends and bearings isn't a bad idea either. With it up on a lift, it should be pretty easy to tell what is worn, and what is till good though.

[631twentyeighteye]

like CMC said, i would check out the bushings on the corner of your concern, and the others to see if anything else needs to be replaced. I'd also check to see if any wheel bearings are bad and that your tires are in okay shape.

[TheSt|G]

At 100k you are pretty much due to replace all the rubber bushings, so not a bad place to start.

[Huecifer]

ball joint maybe?

[Bimmerguy3]

When I had the car up on the lift the wheel had absolutely no play. Usually the wheel has some play when it needs lower control arm bushings. Front brakes are very relatively new. The only factor I could not be counting on is hitting a random dip in the road in the rain and the front suspension took a hit at about 20. But two sets of rims. Not sure, going to re balance the wheels, get it back on a lift, any quick way to test the wheel bearing?

[Bimmerguy3]

^ball joint would also cause play on the 12-6 check.

[Bimmerguy3]

The suspension looks healthier than my MK6 GTI that was a 2011 but this symptom just started and has progressively declined, it's noticeable to me but no one else really.

[Solo_M_Tech]

Sounds like bad tires. My car is new and has similar symptoms. My car has perminent flat spots in the tires and has caused the sidewall belts to warp. Could be your issue. But at 100k miles I would suspect blown struts or bad control arm bushings.

[bbbbmw]

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-...trol-arms.aspx

[toronto128]

Keep in mind, when the car is on a lift, the suspension is repositioned, and the worn areas may not be obvious.

I was working on a car years ago, that when it was on a lift, the ball joints were tight. But when I compressed the suspension while on the lift, the ball joints showed play.

Definitely sounds like tires, wheels, suspension. You already swapped wheels/tires, most likely in the suspension somewhere.

Brakes? I had a similar issue on one car, and it was a loose brake caliper.

[Bimmerguy3]

I might have to try that. Tires are 5k old, front brakes are 10k old, I'm leaning towards lower control arm bushings now. I didn't have very good light last time so going to take a look in a little bit with daylight and check it over again. I'm pretty sure it's down to LCABs, tie rod ends or ball joint. Might end up just putting the M3 upgrade either way and start there and might just slowly go over every bushing/weak point. Might be the best tactic before I end up doing a build of some sort. ECS tuning looks like the best bet.

[Solo_M_Tech]

I would check the struts as well man. Just to be safe. Check for moisture around the strut rod where it exits the strut cartridge. I blew the struts out on my wrx driving over a speed bump and it made similar noises and feelings. ( 45 mph at night, didn't see it until I hit it) worth looking into.

[rking117]

could it be tramlining? that is common on BMWs

[Bimmerguy3]

Originally Posted by rking117

could it be tramlining? that is common on BMWs

The problem is worse with the 215/35/18s but is still prevalent in the OEM tire size, also it is not "feeling" the road, it is not handling how it should be, the tire and suspension should feel tight, not wobbly. I believe it is the LCABs; however, will be ordering tie rod ends, LCAs, and sway bar end links for the front and re balancing the new tires and replacing the rears. Hopefully suspension work will be easy with this car. And interesting point, I'll have to take a look at the shock towers and make sure nothing mushroomed. Thanks.

[2tonik]

Def could be ball joints. They tend to go around your mileage range. Replaced them in my E36 around 100k miles.

[JimD]

For "what needs replaced at 100K" I would consult Mike Miller's old school maintenance guidance (if you haven't already). Water pump?

[Bimmerguy3]

Originally Posted by Boston Terrier

Def could be ball joints. They tend to go around your mileage range. Replaced them in my E36 around 100k miles.

Wouldn't a ball join cause noticeable play when you shake the wheel at 12 and 6?

[mikal7]

Any update on this?? Got a similar vibration problem. Car is at 225km now. Picked it up cpo with 65k in 2011.

Just put new tires on it, falken fk452 square. Originally on my real bbs's but then I bent 2 (toronto roads are terrible) so back to stock wheels.

Need to do my brakes and an alignment then will report back. Probably gonna do wheel bearings and lca and swaybar too- but would hate to do all this and still not have the car smooth. Could the rear subframe bushings be causing this too?? Problem is the vibration isn't consistent. I have new shocks/springs/top mounts FYI - only 5k old with my tires

[Silenus]

Originally Posted by mikal7

Any update on this?? Got a similar vibration problem. Car is at 225km now. Picked it up cpo with 65k in 2011.

Just put new tires on it, falken fk452 square. Originally on my real bbs's but then I bent 2 (toronto roads are terrible) so back to stock wheels.

Need to do my brakes and an alignment then will report back. Probably gonna do wheel bearings and lca and swaybar too- but would hate to do all this and still not have the car smooth. Could the rear subframe bushings be causing this too?? Problem is the vibration isn't consistent. I have new shocks/springs/top mounts FYI - only 5k old with my tires

The wheel is jerking under braking? Your front thrust rod hydraulic bushings have failed.

[mikal7]

No my wheel
Isn't jerking but I have really bad vibrations tht are inconsistent from 70kmh +