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05-14-2010, 02:22 AM | #1 |
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2010 135i or 2009.... (HELP) what would you do????
Hello,
I've been thinking of getting a 135i coupe for a long time....and was thinking of a CPO.... because I'm cheap. First, I found an CPO 08 135i w/ sport, but NO premium for 32K (no grind, online price). I wasn't too hot on a car w/out the premium package.... so I kept looking. I found an 09 w/ 6K miles... it had premium and sport, but NO M-sport. 36K, wouldn't budge on the price. No negotiation + No M-Sport = NO SALE. Then I found a 2010 factory demo w/ 5k miles for 36K. Sport, Premium, Montego Blue on Black Boston Leather. I didn't pull the trigger because the third car doesn't have M-Sport. I'm looking to buy.... I realized that I can get WAY better financing (1.9%) if I get a 2010 135i.... and I'm now leaning in that direction over a CPO (standard rates apply to CPO 1series). This got me onto Truecar.com (AWESOME site BTW) where I can get a NEW 2010 w/ M-Sport and premium (black on red)..... I can get into one for about 40K So..... my friends... which do you think is the better deal? an 08 @ 32K, a 2010 w/ 5K miles @ 36K, or a brand-new 2010 for 40K? Is my need for the M-Sport package overrated????? One last thing.... all are auto transmission. PPS: i've already told myself that I have to draw the line somewhere, anso I'm not even considering the 2011 w/ DCT.... because I'm Cheap. Thanks in advance! |
05-14-2010, 02:40 AM | #2 | |
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Well, if you are really set on having option "X", regardless how good of a deal you could get...DON'T DO IT! You will not be happy in the long run. Out of your options, I'd say wait it out and see if you can find one with the options you want, or if you can swing it, then by all means go for the 2010. Whatever you choose though, be picky and get exactly what you want. You have to look out for number 1. No pun intended. |
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05-14-2010, 03:05 AM | #3 |
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I agree go for exactly what you are looking for dont rush and jump into a deal just to get a car quick.. u may regret it especially when u next look online and find the car you wanted for sale after buying a car which you compromised one of your options.
I speak from experience haha
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Black Sapphire 2011 135i MT6 (Comfort Access, Professional Nav, Heated Seats, Performance Steering Wheel, Performance Shift Knob and boot, and more )
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05-14-2010, 06:36 PM | #4 |
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Thanks for the feedback so far folks..... last night, I pretty much TOTALED my beloved dust-rocket. After 150K miles of glory, my M3 is no more.
At the moment, I'm pretty close to a 2010 Black on Red 135i w/ M-Sport, Premium, and ....... the glacier silver aluminum package. $40,300 not including taxes. I think that's a smoking deal. |
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05-14-2010, 06:44 PM | #5 | |
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Drives: '19 M2C | '20 100AE ND2
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2019 M2C - Alpine White - 6MT
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05-14-2010, 07:36 PM | #6 |
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Man, sorry about the car. Had a good run, it seems. I know, I know you want to purchase, but... you should explore leasing. Monthly cost will be less, but yes, there will always be a monthly payment. But, you'll always be warrantied, and you'll get a fresh ride every 3-4 years. Again, I apologize for misdirecting your question, but just wanted to whisper the lease idea. There's lots of great help on the forum.
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05-14-2010, 10:16 PM | #7 |
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Also, 2011s are out now, so if you are looking new, which it sounds like you are with the 2010 stuff, just get a 2011. The car is probably better, and it's cheaper.
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05-15-2010, 12:27 AM | #8 |
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yeah that's the odd thing.... when I price out a 2011 on BMW USA vs. the numbers I rattled off on the MY2010, the price seems high on the 2010... but the sticker price on the config I mentioned is actually close to 45K.... so relative to MSRP on the 2010, I'm getting a good deal....
Yes, I guess the 2011 looks cheaper, but I need a car now, and don't think I can wait for a DCT 2011 to hit a dealer lot.... I'd be paying very close to MSRP, and the finance rate would be around 3.9% instead of the 1.9% being offered on the 2010. So.... if I keep the 10K down scenario. borrow 30K for the 2010 @ 1.9 borrow 32K for the 2011 @ 3.9 I actually pay $1500 more in interest over the 5 year life of the loan and I'm only borrowing 2K more. Not a good deal in relative terms. PLUS, I have yet to hear that DCT is hands-down better than a step, so a guy who's going auto, there is NO difference in the 2010 vs. 2011. Or am I wrong????? please let me know my fellow beemer fiends!!!!!!!!!! PS: Thanks so much for letting your passion about aBMW help a total stranger make sense of a very important life decison (after all, a car is probably the second-biggest purchase I'll make in terms of dollar amount). The interweb is most excellent. |
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05-16-2010, 12:55 PM | #9 | |
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05-17-2010, 01:09 AM | #11 |
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OK i'm DONE: Jet Black on Red 135i w/ M-Sport Premium and Glacier Aluminum Trim.
.9% APR and below invoice. Moving on: should I buy stuff like black grille, carbon fiber diffuser, exhaust aftermarket, or dealer-installed as part of the purchase? worried about warranties..... PLEASE PM me if you know 'mod' friendly service dealers in SoCA.... |
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05-17-2010, 08:36 PM | #12 |
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If you intend to add diffuser, black grille and most other mods they add absolutely nothing at trade in time. Perhaps it would make a difference selling the car to a private party. As a result, rolling the price of these mods into the contract is not a very good idea if you are looking to add some value in a few years. However, if money is no object then do it.
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05-17-2010, 11:05 PM | #13 |
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i love my bmw perf grillz
stay away from places like irvine and shelly for mods. crevier i heard has some cooler SA's but i mean don't leave your jb3 in there...
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05-19-2010, 12:00 PM | #14 | |
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The 2010s do have a good deal going right now though, but depending on the car and equipment you want, a 2011 may even end up cheaper just because iPod connectivity and leather are now no-cost options.
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