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[Kgolf31]

Well here is my problem.

I was able to successfully clear the sealant out of the fender via steel wire brush thing and a dremel. However when I went to go roll, I came into a pretty serious issue.

Because of the new suspension, it doesn't droop much compared to OEM...so now the tool can physically get underneath the fender to start pushing the fender up. I tried all configurations, and while some do get me underneath the fender...they "bottom out" and dont have any more range of adjustability so I do not have any pressure to push against.

Pics:





Odd angle, but really the only spot where I was able to start getting a decent roll. However I couldn't get the right angle and starting pulling the fender too much, and called it quits for now.

I may just have a shop do it.

[yllwwgn]

Looks like the limited space with the non OEM suspension is an issue for sure... but judging by the pics, where is the jack placed? Form here it looks like under the suspension arm, which of course would not "help" any.

If you support the car by the jacking points, you SHOULD be able to pull the hub assembly far down enough the gain an extra couple of inches. You may have to disconnect the rear sway to help.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by yllwwgn

Looks like the limited space with the non OEM suspension is an issue for sure... but judging by the pics, where is the jack placed? Form here it looks like under the suspension arm, which of course would not "help" any.

If you support the car by the jacking points, you SHOULD be able to pull the hub assembly far down enough the gain an extra couple of inches. You may have to disconnect the rear sway to help.

I have the rear pads on jack stands and a small jack underneath the arm. What was happening, is that when I was to place pressure on the fender the shock will extend and the tool would keep on changing angle, not being able to actually have any pressure on the fender.

At this point I'm just going to have a shop do it (Koala Motorsports). I got my fronts rolled, so borrowing the tool was indeed worth it. It is just these rears are a PITA

[yllwwgn]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

I have the rear pads on jack stands and a small jack underneath the arm. What was happening, is that when I was to place pressure on the fender the shock will extend and the tool would keep on changing angle, not being able to actually have any pressure on the fender.

At this point I'm just going to have a shop do it (Koala Motorsports). I got my fronts rolled, so borrowing the tool was indeed worth it. It is just these rears are a PITA

Yeah, the rears are indeed a PITA. Cool man... after the shop does it, be sure to let us know on here how it turns out!

[3002 tii]

Thread bump -- what exactly is the purpose of this sealant between liner and fender? Is there any negative effect from removing it?

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

Thread bump -- what exactly is the purpose of this sealant between liner and fender? Is there any negative effect from removing it?

IIRC there is a joint of 2 pieces of metal there and it is essentially a seal.

However, when I removed mine, prior to rolling I took undercarriage liner spray and sprayed some back where I removed it, then proceeded to roll.

[Freon]

I imagine it also plays a part in rust prevention so water/salt doesn't sit inside the lip.

[Ginger_Extract]

It's for rust prevention and panel bonding. I believe that the quarters on these cars are bonded to the structure and not just welded.

[digitallyblue]

Resurrecting this old thread. Has anyone else had any easier methods of removing this sealant? I'm in the same scenario here. I spent about 4 minutes on the sealant and it wasn't giving away very easily at all. I imagine it would take many hours to remove it all with a Dremel, and I'm worried about damaging the fender in the process.

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by digitallyblue

Resurrecting this old thread. Has anyone else had any easier methods of removing this sealant? I'm in the same scenario here. I spent about 4 minutes on the sealant and it wasn't giving away very easily at all. I imagine it would take many hours to remove it all with a Dremel, and I'm worried about damaging the fender in the process.

I just did this last weekend and I used a dremel with the wire brush attachment. It took 30-45 mins per side (just to clear the goop). I had to get a mirror to make sure I cleared everything out. It is a real pain to roll the rears.

[chris82]

This looks like an absolute PITA, hope it works out for you though

EDIT: LMAO god damn thread revive got me again!

[yllwwgn]

Originally Posted by Dilmorecg

I just did this last weekend and I used a dremel with the wire brush attachment. It took 30-45 mins per side (just to clear the goop). I had to get a mirror to make sure I cleared everything out. It is a real pain to roll the rears.

Dremel with brush attachment is what I used as well. In fact I ALSO used a small cutting disk attachment... take your time and stick your head under there and wear some glasses. Avoid using the highest speeds as it will just heat up the goop and start to melt it (no good). Take your time and run the disk down the length of the material on one side, than again on the other... you're essentially CUTTING A V-SHAPE of the goop out From there you can grab it with some vice grips, and you should be able to tear it out, even if in 3" lengths.

Also helps if you're not doing this in sub-80F weather... that stuff is BARELY pliable.

[digitallyblue]

Originally Posted by yllwwgn

Dremel with brush attachment is what I used as well. In fact I ALSO used a small cutting disk attachment... take your time and stick your head under there and wear some glasses. Avoid using the highest speeds as it will just heat up the goop and start to melt it (no good). Take your time and run the disk down the length of the material on one side, than again on the other... you're essentially CUTTING A V-SHAPE of the goop out From there you can grab it with some vice grips, and you should be able to tear it out, even if in 3" lengths.

Also helps if you're not doing this in sub-80F weather... that stuff is BARELY pliable.

Thanks for the tips! Regarding the sub-80F weather, not really an option in Canada

Got 3 questions:

1. How much roll are you guys achieving? Any estimates on clearance?

2. How easy would it be to damage your fender while doing this? I can be quite clumsy at detail work like this, and getting a dremel at that angle seems pretty awkward.

3. What are you guys using to seal it all back up when you're done rolling?

[yllwwgn]

Originally Posted by digitallyblue

Thanks for the tips! Regarding the sub-80F weather, not really an option in Canada

Got 3 questions:

1. How much roll are you guys achieving? Any estimates on clearance?

2. How easy would it be to damage your fender while doing this? I can be quite clumsy at detail work like this, and getting a dremel at that angle seems pretty awkward.

3. What are you guys using to seal it all back up when you're done rolling?

1. I'd say I netted about 5mm in additional space per side. Doesn't sound like much but in terms of fender-to-tire clearance, that's huge.
2. The grinding/cutting Dremel disks I used were small (maybe 1.5" diameter)... I could tell even by sound alone if it touched anything other than rubber/goop in the channel.
3. I am in Arizona, so moisture is far from a concern... but I would suggest probably squeezing in some RTV or silicone sealant into the channel once complete.

[Ginger_Extract]

Bumping this up, will be rolling the rears soon. Before I dig into this, how do you remove the liner? I haven't been under the rear of the car in a while, is it all clips?

[Eyeman]

I'm not sure where it originates/attaches on the central side. The outside area is what needs adjusted/removed. It slices easily and cleanly. Most just cut it at the lip and then up much higher to remove the section. A sharp knife, etc will do it easily.

[Dmak]

Mostly 8mm screws and a few 10mm plastic nuts. That's about it I think

[Ginger_Extract]

Originally Posted by Eyeman

I'm not sure where it originates/attaches on the central side. The outside area is what needs adjusted/removed. It slices easily and cleanly. Most just cut it at the lip and then up much higher to remove the section. A sharp knife, etc will do it easily.

Just poked around under there, can pull back the felt (?) liner by hand to access the quarter panel edge lip. That is going to be a PITA to work with...

[Dilmorecg]

I pulled my fender liner out to do the roll then put it back in. Make sure you leave a little bit of gap when doing the fender so the liner can slot back in.

I didnt cut my fender liners at all. You can "remold" them using your heat gun. Just heat up the fender liner and press hard with a cold wet rag. This changes the shape enough so you wont rub on the liner.

[1forI]

Originally Posted by yllwwgn

1. I'd say I netted about 5mm in additional space per side. Doesn't sound like much but in terms of fender-to-tire clearance, that's huge.
2. The grinding/cutting Dremel disks I used were small (maybe 1.5" diameter)... I could tell even by sound alone if it touched anything other than rubber/goop in the channel.
3. I am in Arizona, so moisture is far from a concern... but I would suggest probably squeezing in some RTV or silicone sealant into the channel once complete.

Great info!

When you say you netted 5mm from rolling, are you talking about the rear fenders only?

I'm curious how much clearance there is to be gained in the front fender from rolling alone. There is obviously much less of a lip to work with there.

[yllwwgn]

Originally Posted by 1forI

Great info!

When you say you netted 5mm from rolling, are you talking about the rear fenders only?

I'm curious how much clearance there is to be gained in the front fender from rolling alone. There is obviously much less of a lip to work with there.

Yeah the 5mm number I was referring to the rears. The fronts are easier and the lips can practically be squeezed together by hand (very thin)... yes I know how it sounds but a baseball bat with some duct tape on it works easily. The fronts are far from rocket science, you will see it as soon as you get in there... 5mm there is easy depending on how much you technically "pull" them out as well.

[Ginger_Extract]

Bumping this up. Got started on the rears of the car last night (fronts were as easy as any of my other cars I've done). I ground pretty much ALL of the sealant out of the wheel arch as could be done. It took about 4 hours to get all of it out. The backside of the fender lip is smooth metal, i.e. minimal residual rubber/sealant.
I have started to roll the rears, but they aren't giving very much. Does anyone have any pictures of what their fender lips actually look like after being rolled? I want to see how far to push them before giving up.

Using this handy pic found in this thread:


Does the portion of the fender lip that the big red arrow is pointing towards roll flat? The "Step 3" section seems to be coming along, but the bulk of the fender lip doesn't really want to go.

Is this as far as the fender will go?