BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      09-12-2015, 10:43 PM   #287
steve o 77
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Thanks for the detailed pics OP.

I can't believe how much better the clutch feels without that stupid valve in there. Best mod ever.

Plus it took all of 10 minutes!
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      09-13-2015, 02:21 PM   #288
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Got mine in last weekend.
Best Mod Ever +1,000,000.
At first I thought it was broken because the initial action at the top of the stroke is so much lighter.

Took an awful lot more than 10 minutes, though. I think I need some proper ramps.
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      11-29-2015, 09:00 AM   #289
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What if I did what he did and just had it free flow without putting a replacement, is that a bad thing?
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      11-29-2015, 03:18 PM   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92CBH View Post
What if I did what he did and just had it free flow without putting a replacement, is that a bad thing?
Nope.

Seems to be the way to go if you're already out of warranty.
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      12-22-2015, 05:46 PM   #291
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Wow, wish I came on this forum sooner. I was wondering why 1 - 2 felt weird. I have had plenty of BMWs in my past, mainly E36s, and never liked how the shift felt from 1 - 2 in the 1 series. Now I know what to do.

Good write up, OP.
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      12-22-2015, 06:51 PM   #292
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Wow, blast from the past. Glad my writeup still is getting good usage!
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      01-17-2016, 07:48 PM   #293
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I just did this mod. Had the missus help with bleeding the valve.
My car is in storage in my garage for the winter but I just had to take a quick drive. What an improvement!
Thank you OP for doing this.
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      05-16-2016, 12:40 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Btw, this is how badly the fluid is restricted in our cars...
This I just for manual transmission right??

Not the DCT?
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      05-16-2016, 01:00 PM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie1 View Post
This I just for manual transmission right??

Not the DCT?
I would imagine 6MT only. But then, the DCT does have a clutch (or two.)

Plug your VIN into REALOEM and see if your cars has
21526764872 Lock Valve.
If not, then you have no CDV to delete...
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      05-17-2016, 08:31 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie1 View Post
This I just for manual transmission right??

Not the DCT?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
I would imagine 6MT only. But then, the DCT does have a clutch (or two.)

Plug your VIN into REALOEM and see if your cars has
21526764872 Lock Valve.
If not, then you have no CDV to delete...
If you don't have a third pedal you don't need to worry about this... Strictly for manual transmissions
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      05-28-2016, 01:01 PM   #297
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Here's how i did it.

Removal of the actual CDV:

Unclip both clips
Pull hose from CDV and cap it with your finger
Remove CDV from the hardline
Plug hose to hardline and push the clip in

Bleeding with pressure bleeder

Fill brake fluid reservoir to the absolute TOP
Fill pressure bleeder and plug it to the reservoir
Pump it to 15psi
Go under the car and open bleeding nipple
I couldn't plug a hose while opening the nipple so i did it blind, i left it open 10s, tighten the nipple
Unplug bleeder (relieve the pressure first)
Remove the excess fluid from the reservoir

Booom, you done ! Clutch is now perfect.
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      05-28-2016, 08:46 PM   #298
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My CDV valve experience....

Before:


After:



Actually I did not reinstall the gutted valve. But there is NO REASON ON EARTH to buy a modified valve.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=23

Do it now. Do not wait.
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      06-01-2016, 12:27 PM   #299
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Used these instructions to install the BMS CDV on my 128i. Since my car is still under warranty, prefer to keep it stock appearing and also retain the OEM valve in case I need to reinstall it for some reason.

Following advice I saw somewhere else, maybe earlier in this thread, I bought an 11mm half-moon wrench (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which definitely helped with bleeding. I bled using a Motive bleeder and as others have mentioned, had to pump the clutch in the ball park of 100 times afterwards to get normal pedal feel back. Overall it went smoothly!
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      06-01-2016, 12:30 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
Here's how i did it.


Go under the car and open bleeding nipple
I couldn't plug a hose while opening the nipple so i did it blind, i left it open 10s,
So wait, you just let fluid drain out and make a mess under the car? For others considering this, definitely worth picking up the proper wrench in advance so you can contain the fluid. Hydraulic fluid is nasty shit.
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      06-05-2016, 12:24 PM   #301
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Wow thank you guys!!! This was really easy, just a pain in the... shoulder (from working on the garage floor). Took under an hour, and about half of the time was spent making wooden blocks so I could jack the car up safely. Hardest part was finding the clip that faces up towards the car. I clamped the line like people suggested and barely lost any fluid. Had my dad push the clutch to the floor while I bled and it all worked with one slow pump. Put everything back together and gave it a test drive. Barely had to top off the reservoir. Boy what a difference. I know I'm still learning manual but I knew I shouldn't need to drive like a grandma to be smooth! 10/10 would highly recommend.
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      06-05-2016, 06:40 PM   #302
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Well being a lazy bastard I'm having the shop pull the CDV completely when it's up on the lift for diff install this week.

I'm really looking forward to the result based on this thread. I installed the BMS clutch stop and that helped a lot with the huge pedal throw. But I still have that ultra-annoying engagement point at the very top of the pedal, which you have to baby to get a clean shift to 1 or 2. Otherwise it's a bucking bronco. Combining this poor clutch behavior with a Sprint Booster has made things interesting.

Hopefully, CDV delete will be the endpoint on my recent pedals project, which so far has been (1) BMS clutch stop, (2) Sprint Booster to partially remediate awful drive-by-wire throttle lag and dead spot, and (3) Turner pedals for grippiness.
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      06-06-2016, 12:40 AM   #303
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I enjoy the CDV delete, but it's amazing with the UCP!😉
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      06-06-2016, 06:41 AM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
I enjoy the CDV delete, but it's amazing with the UCP!😉
About a week or two ago, I actually started a thread asking about the UCP.

Do you have it?

When I asked about it, the thread really became a discussion about the BMS clutch stop and CDV delete (both of which I'm in process of doing). So in that regard it was helpful.

But I'm interested to know more about the UCP. Did you install it, or a shop? Did you go through a progression from clutch stop to CDV delete to UCP? Etc.

Asking because I'm really trying to straighten out the pedals (for track mainly), and if this would be helpful I'd certainly put it back on my punch list.
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      06-06-2016, 02:11 PM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeyore View Post
About a week or two ago, I actually started a thread asking about the UCP.

Do you have it?

When I asked about it, the thread really became a discussion about the BMS clutch stop and CDV delete (both of which I'm in process of doing). So in that regard it was helpful.

But I'm interested to know more about the UCP. Did you install it, or a shop? Did you go through a progression from clutch stop to CDV delete to UCP? Etc.

Asking because I'm really trying to straighten out the pedals (for track mainly), and if this would be helpful I'd certainly put it back on my punch list.
I have a thread on my clutch travails:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...hlight=bushing

"Brief" summary:

The BMS Clutch Stop was one of the first upgrades I made to my car.
Definitely appreciated the shorter throw, but was still bothered by the delayed reaction and jerkiness, as well as squeakiness of the bushing.

Installed one of the CDV Delete valves. Was very happy with clutch response, but still annoyed by squeakiness.

Installed the AKG Delrin bushings. P-I-T-A. They were a little oversized - need to make 'em less wide to get the c-clip back on. Over-center spring was a nightmare. Cracked one of the pin retaining rings = broken clutch pedal. Went back and forth on "stock pedal but pay someone to do it" or "UCP and DIY." I went the DIY method of the UCP.

SOOOOOO much easier to install than the stock pedal! Not even funny! 45 minutes of futzing around vs 5 hours of beating myself up.

The UCP has some captive bronze bushings. I polished 'em a hair with 2500 & 5000 wet/dry then Mothers Mag/Aluminum. Cleaned up 'em and greased with Redline Moly. Not sure where the AKG bushing are right now. Don't care.

It also came with a nice big clutch stop. I went nuts and used the full UCP stop with the full BMS clutch stop. Car wouldn't start - clutch didn't disengage fully. Pulled out one layer of stop and have had no problems and just love it.

UCP is slightly grittier-feeling than the delrin AKG bushings were - slightly - but this thing never binds, never squeaks, and is completely 100% consistent. I put the spring in the middle "sport" position and have not tried "comfort" or "track" because, frankly, it's just right.
I haven't measured it, but while travel is shorter overall there is actually some overtravel on reset once the clutch is fully engaged. But the feel is great, it's progressive, easy to modulate, quick, sharp, and like I said, consistent. No slop, no give, no bending or shifting. Brilliant.

DIY is still a little bit of a pain. I found it much easier, and better on my back, when I placed an ottoman just outside the driver's door to rest my lower body on. And nicer with my 10 year old handing me tools and finding the one that rolled underneath me. Worst part for me, really, is I have a 6+ foot wingspan and when I stick my arm up in the pedal box my fingers are above everything I want to work on. So I had a kink in my wrist for a little bit... Using allen-head bolts instead of pins to secure the springs was a stroke of genius.

I haven't tracked my car but, knowing what I know now, I wouldn't do it on the stock pedal/stop/lock valve - but wouldn't hesitate on my current setup.

If you've got the itch, and the scratch, do it. You won't be disappointed.
Every day I drive my car, I say to myself "Wow. I LOVE this clutch."
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Last edited by tjswarbrick; 06-06-2016 at 07:02 PM..
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      06-07-2016, 04:14 PM   #306
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Damn you've got me thinking about the UCP...I remember reading your original thread but that was before I had the BMS stop and CDV done.....now that they are, the clutch is way better but not quite where I want it. It's the difficulty modulating and (lack of) consistency that makes me crazy...
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      06-07-2016, 04:30 PM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asbrr View Post
Damn you've got me thinking about the UCP...I remember reading your original thread but that was before I had the BMS stop and CDV done.....now that they are, the clutch is way better but not quite where I want it. It's the difficulty modulating and (lack of) consistency that makes me crazy...
Though noticeable, it didn't make me that crazy on the stock pedal.
But that's where I feel the biggest improvement with the new one!
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      08-23-2016, 12:31 AM   #308
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Need some help

Hey guys. can anyone help me do this here is SoCal? Or, know a local shop that can do this for me on the cheap? I'm in Orange County. Mission Viejo to be precise. Got an E90 M3. Thanks!
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