How to prepare 135 for track (30 minute session)

[e82n54]

I've been reading a lot in the forum about the 135 and it's shortcomings on the track. From what I've read the 135 is fairly capable out of the box on a track, but performance can be greatly improved by upgrading a few things. Since many have gone before me I would prefer to follow recommendations of others instead of 'reinventing the wheel'. I would like to put together a road map of the modifications/upgrades recommended to prep the 135 for a 30 minute track session. The end goal of these modifications is improved durability and performance over stock. I will include a list below, but I am not assigning priority. Please reply with any recommended additions to this list. Thanks!!

- clutch stop (manual transmission) - shorter clutch pedal movement
- modified clutch delay valve (manual transmission) - allows control of clutch engagement
- non run flat tires - improves grip
- aftermarket brake pads with front titanium backing plates or front big brake kit
- camber plates (by vorshlag) - decreases understeer by increasing cornering grip
- M3 control arms and wishbones (front control arm kit) - improves steering feedback and cornering ability and provides even more negative camber
- M3 rear subframe mounts - less bouncy suspension
- limited slip rear differential - improves launch and turn exit by improving rear wheel grip

[pixelblue]

this would be my list. I have everything except the LSD (coming soon)

1 - M3 control arms and wishbones (front control arm kit) - improves steering feedback and cornering ability and provides even more negative camber
2 - M3 front sway bar (reduce body roll)
3 - M3 rear subframe mounts - less bouncy suspension
4 - camber plates (by vorshlag) - decreases understeer by increasing cornering grip
5 - aftermarket brake pads with front titanium backing plates or front big brake kit & upgrade brake fluid with SS brake lines
6 - non run flat tires - improves grip
7 - upgrade shocks and springs (coil overs)
8 - limited slip rear differential - improves launch and turn exit by improving rear wheel grip

[IGoFast1589]

Sounds like a killer list to me. All I would say in addition is align it to whatever specs makes you feel more comfortable behind the wheel and it's time to haul. Almost forgot... you guys both need some high temp brake fluid on your lists.

[e82n54]

I thought the 135 comes with DOT 4 fluid already, which I understand to be high temperature brake fluid. Is this wrong?

[pixelblue]

You need higher temps. Look into motul RBF 600

[e82n54]

Originally Posted by pixelblue

You need higher temps. Look into motul RBF 600

Darn looks like I need to replace it then. Thanks!

[Focusedintntions]

i'd put brake fluid and pads at the top of the list, then start doing other things after driving the car with the stock suspension settings.

[wkndracr]

I tracked my car last year with nothing more than Cool Carbon pads, ATE Super Blue, and 245/45/17 Kumho XS on 17x8 Sparco wheels. With stock suspension it is still pretty capable. I was usually one of the faster cars in the intermediate run group. If this is your first year HPDE, I would learn to drive the car as-is then decide what you want to change.

I would, however, recommend dedicated race pads (I like carbotechs) and a dedicated set of rotors. I had a little issue with pedal vibration after a few events with the Cool Carbons.

[Lubo]

I've tracked my car for 2 years and it is still on stock suspension. If you have done couple of events before then I would recommend you invest into higher temp brake fluid, I run Motul RBF600, found the ATE was actually worse than the OEM stuff and after 4 full bleedings I was finally able to get rid of the blue hue. Depending on the track and what type of driver you are you might be OK with OEM pads as they are not bad, but once you get faster and want to be consistent you really need better pads.

Biggest shortcoming really is the tiny wheels and tires up front and the lack of camber. I've done 255/40 17 all around with help of camber plates and it completely transformed the car.

[IGoFast1589]

I agree very much so with the above posts. Too many people buy parts for their cars and can't even drive them to their full potential. Plus, if you can drive it too it's ragged edge with minimal parts other than to improve reliability or correct minor things then you saved money and still had fun and beat up on all of the guys that bought driving gloves that match their shoes and helmet.

[IGoFast1589]

Originally Posted by IGoFast1589

I agree very much so with the above posts. Too many people buy parts for their cars and can't even drive them to their full potential. Plus, if you can drive it too it's ragged edge with minimal parts other than to improve reliability or correct minor things then you saved money and still had fun and beat up on all of the guys that bought driving gloves that match their shoes and helmet.

Excuse my poor sentence, I am on my phone.

[e82n54]

This is great news. I was under the impression that the front tires would wear extremely fast around the outer edges, but it sounds like it's not really that bad. That was my main motivation for planning out this modification road map. Thanks for the advice.

[Xaeryan]

Originally Posted by Lubo

... I run Motul RBF600, found the ATE was actually worse than the OEM stuff ...

Do tell? Never heard any complaints about ATE before (well, other than the fact the super blue can dye plastic and void warranties, but that's what the TYP 200 is for :-)), and my understanding is it has a far higher boiling point than the OEM stuff.

[wkndracr]

Originally Posted by Scuderia000

This is great news. I was under the impression that the front tires would wear extremely fast around the outer edges, but it sounds like it's not really that bad. That was my main motivation for planning out this modification road map. Thanks for the advice.

Yeah, I wouldnt worry much about the tires. I use a dedicated set for track and they seem to be wearing pretty evenly, switching them between front and back every so often. If you run a symmetrical tread you can also have them flipped on the wheel to swap the outside and insides. I have Ecsta XSs, so I dont have that option.

[Lubo]

Originally Posted by Xaeryan

Do tell? Never heard any complaints about ATE before (well, other than the fact the super blue can dye plastic and void warranties, but that's what the TYP 200 is for :-)), and my understanding is it has a far higher boiling point than the OEM stuff.

Not trying to bash ATE, I was running the stuff in my GTI for years and never had an issue. My 1st event with the 1er was at Pocono track, car had approximately 2,000 miles and was showroom stock. Naturally before my 2nd track day with the 1er I tried to upgrade fluid as I had some brake fade. I was running the car in same configuration with the exception of Star Spec tires and ATE blue fluid. I was experiencing fade a lot sooner and the fluid didn't respond too well to cool down laps either. Ever since I switched to Motul I've not experienced any fade at all, but I've also updated pads since then as well.

[Lubo]

Originally Posted by Scuderia000

This is great news. I was under the impression that the front tires would wear extremely fast around the outer edges, but it sounds like it's not really that bad. That was my main motivation for planning out this modification road map. Thanks for the advice.

You have to be careful. I've worn out my fronts at the edges a lot sooner than the rears. I had to get rid of the set with about 1k miles left on the rears.


Front tires after last track event

[aus]

The stock fluid is Ate.

You guys should look into Castrol SRF. It costs more but you only need to change it once a season, so it may cost less in the long run.

No one went into limp mode? This happens a lot with 335 crowd.
I believe the 1M has a larger oil cooler.

Lubo, you need some plates badly.

[Frampton]

There is no way people are getting even tire wear without a lot more negative camber up front. if you do 30 minute track runs, not autox, you will destroy the outside shoulders of the front tires in 1-2 sessions.

I would do it in this order (I have all these parts and do 30 minute track runs 3-4 times a month on a 0.7 mile 8 turn course maxing around 85mph)

1 - camber plates (by vorshlag)
2 - non run flat tires - improves grip
3 - m3 fsb
4 - coilovers


I have not done any of the other mods you listed below but depending on the speeds you reach and how much braking is involved you may need to change your order.

- aftermarket brake pads with front titanium backing plates or front big brake kit
- limited slip rear differential - improves launch and turn exit by improving rear wheel grip

I would do these mods after the camber plates and coilovers since these are more subtle changes in geometry compared to the other mods above

- M3 control arms and wishbones (front control arm kit) - improves steering feedback and cornering ability and provides even more negative camber
- M3 rear subframe mounts - less bouncy suspension

[DriveHard]

Originally Posted by Frampton

There is no way people are getting even tire wear without a lot more negative camber up front. if you do 30 minute track runs, not autox, you will destroy the outside shoulders of the front tires in 1-2 sessions.

I would do it in this order (I have all these parts and do 30 minute track runs 3-4 times a month on a 0.7 mile 8 turn course maxing around 85mph)

1 - camber plates (by vorshlag)
2 - non run flat tires - improves grip
3 - m3 fsb
4 - coilovers


I have not done any of the other mods you listed below but depending on the speeds you reach and how much braking is involved you may need to change your order.

- aftermarket brake pads with front titanium backing plates or front big brake kit
- limited slip rear differential - improves launch and turn exit by improving rear wheel grip

I would do these mods after the camber plates and coilovers since these are more subtle changes in geometry compared to the other mods above

- M3 control arms and wishbones (front control arm kit) - improves steering feedback and cornering ability and provides even more negative camber
- M3 rear subframe mounts - less bouncy suspension

Frampton,

I beg to differ with your first sentance.

I have only pulled the pins and obtained -.77* camber, I have the e93FSB, oem sport suspension ( no ///M parts )

I have 4 Time trial days: 3 last year / 1 this year

Lime rock - 5, 20 min sessions IIRC ( twice )
Pocono 4, 20 min sessions
Summit Point 4, 20 min sessions

for a total of 186 laps at average 1.25 miles per lap = 230 miles + 100 break in miles + 200 transit miles + cool down laps, etc for a total of approx 530 miles on my dedicated Hankook Rs3's ( square set up 225/45/17 ) + about at least 15 auto-x's..

Because of the square set up i rotate after each event, and this year when i remounted them after having my winters on my track wheels, i was able to flip them. My wear has been exceptionally good, More shoulder wear due to the piss poor surface where i auto-x at but over all the tires are in great shape! I plan on using them this whole season ( 4 more track days) and hopefully into next year..

p.s. and i do drive hard... placed 2nd and 3rd and 4th in my track days.

just my .o2 for those that may read this in the future and need to make a decision on tire size ( i.e square set up) vs cost vs compromise vs daily driver needs.

Ive done all my track days on Stock OEM pads ( even after the BMW BBK upgrade ) and i have fared well.. Now that i have those days under my belt, i have upgraded to Cool Carbons and Titanimum shields, and ATE blue in order to reach the next level at this years events ( i.e Trail brake / left foot brake / brake harder, later inorder to better my times)

note: although im in a 128.. ive bested a few 135,s and am only a second or 2 behind the faster 135's that are with me..

[Frampton]

Thats good to know about the square setup! That's the direction I'm going to go. I never tried pulling the pins with the stock sport suspension. What are your alignment specs right now?

have you run with the new brake setup? I'm curious im due for a bmw brake service in 2K miles according to the idrive...

[e82n54]

Originally Posted by Lubo

You have to be careful. I've worn out my fronts at the edges a lot sooner than the rears. I had to get rid of the set with about 1k miles left on the rears.

Originally Posted by Frampton

There is no way people are getting even tire wear without a lot more negative camber up front. if you do 30 minute track runs, not autox, you will destroy the outside shoulders of the front tires in 1-2 sessions.

Lubo and Frampton, thank you both for your input. You're tire wear is exactly what I was worried about. Looks like it's not the case for everyone, but it does happen if conditions are right. I think it may be smarter to just do the camber plates and then see how the tires wear with my driving style.

Maybe this is for another thread, but for those that have camber plates do you adjust them for daily driving vs. track or do you just leave them the same all the time? If you adjust them, how long does it take and what do you have to do to adjust them?

[pixelblue]

Set 'em and forget 'em. When you mess with the camber setting it will effect your toe setting. You could mark the plates and go back & forth but not worth it. been running -2.5 camber for the last year and my tire ware is still pretty decent