So i'm going to retrofit the Individual Audio System

reisf · 07-09-2015, 10:19 PM

Hey guys,

So i managed to get a complete Logic 7 (13 speakers + amp) for an absolute, absolute, absolute, absolute bargain. i had initially only bought it for the underseat subwoofers, but since installing those it got me thinking that i may as well just install the whole thing - i've read on forums people saying that its impossible blah blah blah, but i don't think so. In fact i think it's quite possible, albeit slightly difficult and fiddly to accomplish.

Here's what i know.

Below is a picture of the connectors on the amp. Obviously there is MOST bus optical connection, 2 pin power connection and 20 pin post-amp output to the speakers. I have figured out the pin outputs to the speakers browsing online wiring diagrams so thats the easy part. The amp get's power (from somewhere) and it triggered to turn on via signals detected in the MOST Bus.

The plan is to make my own wiring harness from the amp then cut into the factory wires using male/female terminal connectors so it would be completely reversible - or make a harness similar to the one in the Alpine retrofit if i can get socket housings from BMW (i tried last week but they said it was discontinued...)

I just need to know where is the proper place to get power from? I couldn't find the correct wiring diagram for my year model, but in previous models the power came from the junction box and wired to the fuse box (behind the glove box). Could i just wire it from the battery and add an inline fuse?

And how do i add another device to the MOST Bus loop?
Saw this sort of thing on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Y-Adapter...item2ee3652ec1

And of course there will be coding but is it option "S674A HI-FI SYSTEM HARMAN KARDON" or "S677A HIFI SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL DSP"

Will actually make a DIY if this pans out.

tracer bullet · 07-11-2015, 04:05 PM

Random thoughts:

A Technic harness might have the connections you need.

Even if coded, does your head deck have a MOST output?

You mentioned a picture, not sure about anyone else but I don't see one in your post.

I'd think power from the battery w/ a fuse near the battery would be fine. Choose a good grounding spot and make sure you use the right size cables. This is of course assuming the amp will indeed turn itself on and off and is functioning correctly in that regard.

You mentioned elsewhere having an aftermarket amp, JL I think. You may want to go that route even if it takes a 2nd amp. Might be less work. It'll almost definitely provide more power, which at a minimum the underseats will need compared to a stock HK amp.

reisf · 07-11-2015, 11:30 PM

Argh the pic didn't upload

reisf · 07-11-2015, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Random thoughts:

A Technic harness might have the connections you need.

Even if coded, does your head deck have a MOST output?

You mentioned a picture, not sure about anyone else but I don't see one in your post.

I'd think power from the battery w/ a fuse near the battery would be fine. Choose a good grounding spot and make sure you use the right size cables. This is of course assuming the amp will indeed turn itself on and off and is functioning correctly in that regard.

You mentioned elsewhere having an aftermarket amp, JL I think. You may want to go that route even if it takes a 2nd amp. Might be less work. It'll almost definitely provide more power, which at a minimum the underseats will need compared to a stock HK amp.

Hmm i've already ordered the 20pin connector so we'll see how that goes. I'm using the stock CIC iDrive professional head unit. That definitely does have MOST output.

I know the exact pin outputs of each speaker (in 20 pin connector) except for pins 10 and 20 - apparently they are 12V and ground respectively so now, i don't know what the big square rectangle plug is for, unless that is for power and ground and pins 10 and 20 are left vacant in this application.

I will still be using my JL Amp for the subs of course - it's amazing haha, i will just need to add a high/low converter.

Any chance you know the right option number? According to parts catalogues it's either S677A or S688A, not S674A as i had originally thought.

tracer bullet · 07-12-2015, 09:27 AM

Yeah, you'd think the 2 prong plug would be power & ground. Only makes sense... wonder if the other is an output for some reason? Can't think of why. Strange...

No idea on the option #, sorry. Just throwing out the little info I know of the HK system when I was researching my upgrade + soem general 12V background not specific to this car.

You've got a project on your hands! Though it does seem like you're off to a good start and know what you're doing.

reisf · 07-16-2015, 10:18 AM

Mate i love doing electrical mods

i retrofitted iDrive, OEM Xenon headlights, LED Taillights, Cruise Control, a Combox, Alpine hifi system and the mad logic 7 subs with the JL Audio amp.

Does you HK amp have the same 3 connectors?

reisf · 07-21-2015, 03:05 AM

So my project just got a whole lot more interesting - turns out the parts are the complete package from the BMW Individual Audio System, which probably explains why the connectors are different...

So now realising that this may not even be possible because Individual Audio was never offered on the 1 series, but still hoping that i can pull it off because, in terms of electronics, the 1 and 3 series are mostly the same car.

questionable · 07-21-2015, 03:13 AM

I have retro fitted logic 7/hk it is do able. Just a massive pain

reisf · 07-21-2015, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by questionable

I have retro fitted logic 7/hk it is do able. Just a massive pain

That's awesome! Can i pick you're brains? Where did you get power for the amp from? Still waiting for the bits and pieces of wiring to come in the mail and the only thing i can't get my head around is whether power is from the large 20 pin connector or 2 pin blade-style connector

tracer bullet · 07-21-2015, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reisf

Does you HK amp have the same 3 connectors?

Sorry, just saw this. I really don't remember. And at this point it's quite buried under the interior panel and its own metal backing panel.

MusicarNW made a video, linked somewhere here on the site and available on Youtube, about installing their bass kit similar to what I got. Perhaps it has some decent shots of the amp?

reisf · 08-16-2015, 08:53 PM

Ok so i did some basic voltage and resistance testing on the 2 pin plug and determined that Pin1 is +12V, Pin2 is ground.
Then installed it loose in the car, added it to the MOST Loop and reprogrammed the CIC with option 752 (Individual audio) however i couldnt get the amp to turn on. I tried reading the new module that showed up "MAMP" with NCSExpert however it couldnt communicate with the amp.
I also tried testing it with INPA and it also coudn't read it.
Also tested the speaker outputs with a multimeter and didnt see anything...

So any thoughts? the car is able to be reprogrammed for individual audio and i'm out of ideas...

reisf · 08-18-2015, 07:05 AM

Did some more testing today, i measured pins 10/20 with volt meter and it appears the amp is outputting 12V from those 2 pins...

I also tried reprogramming the CIC with $677, $688, and $752 and couldn't get the amp to turn on. (these are different TOP-HIFI option codes on the 1 series, 752 is individual audio.

Also thought that maybe i had the MOST loop wiring inverted and i tried that in every permutation but that didnt appear to help.

Anyone have any ideas on how to wire the thing?

reisf · 08-22-2015, 08:27 AM

Today for the hell of it i tried using pins 10 and 20 as input power source and reprogrammed CIC with 677 688 and 752 and again nothing happened...

I'm sure it has something to do with those 4 pins in the most connection because i saw these pics from an X-something. Note the bits in red.

reisf · 09-16-2015, 12:59 AM

Aaaaaannnnnnndddddd.....Installed!

Process was quite simple, but i was missing one piece of information that stifled the whole process because this particular amp is only available on M Cars. The secret was that Pins 1 + 2 in the MOST fibre optic connector on the amp needed to be bridged with a jumper cable. This got the amp to turn on.

Basic process:

1. Power - Using the 2 pin connector for power, positive 12V fused was wired off battery and grounded at a ground point in the boot. Pin 1 is positive, pin 2 is negative.
2. MOST jumper - bridge the top two pins in the MOST socket with a jumper wire.
3. Add to most loop - I salvaged some MOST fibre optic wiring from an old e90 at a wreckers and added it to the MOST distribution block, which in my car, was under the left rear passenger seat bolster.
4. Wiring speakers - pretty straight forward - i got a 20 pin connector off ebay and looked up the pin outputs on an online WDS, then i made a wiring harness to run to the speaker junction at the underseat subs (My car was a base stereo model and the underseat subs connect to the door speakers) as well as the rear speakers
5. Install speakers - Replace all speakers with EPS/Individual audio speakers as they have different ohm ratings.
6. Coding - Remove your old audio system option number from the vehicle order and replace with $752 and recode CIC

...3 months later...

Done

and it sounds amazing

I just need to get the appropriate boot liner trim and bracket to tidy it up.

tracer bullet · 09-16-2015, 06:00 PM

Nice job! Glad you got it figured out.

Pierre26 · 12-29-2015, 04:16 AM

@reisf: it is about the MOST:
Ref is: 61 13 6 901 844
inside there is the 4 pins plug (61-13-6-905-200) where:
N°1 =?, N°2 is 12Volt, N°3 is Ground and N°4 = ?.
I saw (in other thread) that pins 1 and 2 needs to be bridged in order to run the Amp.

In the post#13 last pic showing 2 plugs in your hand, it 's about the power plug, do you red the Ref because unavailable (no Ref) in BMW base as for the 2 pins connectors, waiting for to complete the job ...

If you can modify the title of your tread as Retrofit to individual now that you achieve it no ? and could be sticked as Diy ...
Anyway, thanks man !

reisf · 12-30-2015, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pierre26

@reisf: it is about the MOST:
Ref is: 61 13 6 901 844
inside there is the 4 pins plug (61-13-6-905-200) where:
N°1 =?, N°2 is 12Volt, N°3 is Ground and N°4 = ?.
I saw (in other thread) that pins 1 and 2 needs to be bridged in order to run the Amp.

In the post#13 last pic showing 2 plugs in your hand, it 's about the power plug, do you red the Ref because unavailable (no Ref) in BMW base as for the 2 pins connectors, waiting for to complete the job ...

If you can modify the title of your tread as Retrofit to individual now that you achieve it no ? and could be sticked as Diy ...
Anyway, thanks man !

No i couldn't find that power plug reference number or the sockets for them. Neither could my local BMW dealer. But if you do find those, please post part numbers

What i did was just get 2 generic spade terminals and heat shrink them (to isolate), wired them off the battery with an inline 50Amp fuse and used those for power supply.

Pierre26 · 03-03-2016, 12:11 AM

@reisf, finally i 've got the final answer;
First bridged pins is highlighted, see under (from ISTA-D)

You can see why the power Plug is hard to find in the ''note'', but found it!
Ref is: 6113 6 907 385.
Connectors (x2):
''Receptacle'' LSK8 4-6 mm² Ref : 1252 1 436 649 are the right ones which I have bought and sealed (6 Euros for both) and better than:
Double leaf spring contact 4-6mm² Ref 61138377734 (which moves in the plug because 6,3 mm width instead of 10 for the above one and the difference of width is not described in BMW parts).

--> All the needed information about Plugs and connectors are from 2er Talk.de, I translate it in English:
https://www.sendspace.com/file/o5wg40
Original file:
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt

All done!

ISTA note and pdf : https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/...BDA1OA6U4osimw or:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8v...ew?usp=sharing

And additional info about coding with NCS expert:
My car is 2009 but before September, if so look at the first data in your FA (after the #) and change with FA write (and then code) by this value #0909 before adding 752.
I mess it and when the HU was back of sleep I loosed the $752 option (and back to HiFi).
This last one must only added to the CAS (then code) and to the NFRM (then code it)
Doing this way, the MAMP option is automatically launched by NCS with the right parameters for DIRAC, no need to use NCS dummy (or you can read the TRC file to see them, according your car).
Last step I didn't have sound ... After lot of time verifying with INPA saying all the modules OK, I suddenly realize that the Volume was to 000000 !!!!
Well the dream is achieved.

reisf · 03-26-2016, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pierre26

@reisf, finally i 've got the final answer;
First bridged pins is highlighted, see under (from ISTA-D)

You can see why the power Plug is hard to find in the ''note'', but found it!
Ref is: 6113 6 907 385.
Connectors (x2):
''Receptacle'' LSK8 4-6 mm² Ref : 1252 1 436 649 are the right ones which I have bought and sealed (6 Euros for both) and better than:
Double leaf spring contact 4-6mm² Ref 61138377734 (which moves in the plug because 6,3 mm width instead of 10 for the above one and the difference of width is not described in BMW parts).

--> All the needed information about Plugs and connectors are from 2er Talk.de, I translate it in English:
https://www.sendspace.com/file/o5wg40
Original file:
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt

All done!

ISTA note and pdf : https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/...BDA1OA6U4osimw or:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8v...ew?usp=sharing

And additional info about coding with NCS expert:
My car is 2009 but before September, if so look at the first data in your FA (after the #) and change with FA write (and then code) by this value #0909 before adding 752.
I mess it and when the HU was back of sleep I loosed the $752 option (and back to HiFi).
This last one must only added to the CAS (then code) and to the NFRM (then code it)
Doing this way, the MAMP option is automatically launched by NCS with the right parameters for DIRAC, no need to use NCS dummy (or you can read the TRC file to see them, according your car).
Last step I didn't have sound ... After lot of time verifying with INPA saying all the modules OK, I suddenly realize that the Volume was to 000000 !!!!
Well the dream is achieved.

Thats awesome mate, can't believe you found it!

For what it's worth, i recently re-installed this system in my new 1er that had factory Harmon Kardon and i just used the same 20 pin connector off the HK with power at pins 10 & 20 - works just the same.

Is there any info as to why we need to create the pin jumper in the first place? Would be good to know why this is needed and what function it performs.

#myInnerNerd

Pierre26 · 04-01-2016, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reisf

Thats awesome mate, can't believe you found it!

For what it's worth, i recently re-installed this system in my new 1er that had factory Harmon Kardon and i just used the same 20 pin connector off the HK with power at pins 10 & 20 - works just the same.

Is there any info as to why we need to create the pin jumper in the first place? Would be good to know why this is needed and what function it performs.

#myInnerNerd

From what I understood doing my search is that this jumper is needed and only performs the Most power transmission when the Ampli is used alone. If not this wire goes with the others Modules (Mulf/Combox, CD changer ..) because of (and following) the optical fiber wires which are linked in a serie way. So this can be different and the best way to know is to use ISTA/D soft: put your short Vin and it will tell the correct WDS and this was what I finally did.
Now in Key Less work ...

ccfj1 · 03-30-2017, 03:49 PM

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but Im doing this exact install, but I have the older style am (without the separate 2 pin power block).

Do I still need to use the jumper in the MOST connector?

I've made the loom and pined it as per WDS (10/20 for power and gnd) the rest speakers.

I just need the MOST pins.

Many thanks (in advance).

reisf · 04-03-2017, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccfj1

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but Im doing this exact install, but I have the older style am (without the separate 2 pin power block).

Do I still need to use the jumper in the MOST connector?

I've made the loom and pined it as per WDS (10/20 for power and gnd) the rest speakers.

I just need the MOST pins.

Many thanks (in advance).

can you upload a pic of your amp connectors?
Also a pic of the part number label please.

07-09-2015, 10:19 PM	#1
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	So i'm going to retrofit the Individual Audio System - but i need some help. Hey guys, So i managed to get a complete Logic 7 (13 speakers + amp) for an absolute, absolute, absolute, absolute bargain. i had initially only bought it for the underseat subwoofers, but since installing those it got me thinking that i may as well just install the whole thing - i've read on forums people saying that its impossible blah blah blah, but i don't think so. In fact i think it's quite possible, albeit slightly difficult and fiddly to accomplish. Here's what i know. Below is a picture of the connectors on the amp. Obviously there is MOST bus optical connection, 2 pin power connection and 20 pin post-amp output to the speakers. I have figured out the pin outputs to the speakers browsing online wiring diagrams so thats the easy part. The amp get's power (from somewhere) and it triggered to turn on via signals detected in the MOST Bus. The plan is to make my own wiring harness from the amp then cut into the factory wires using male/female terminal connectors so it would be completely reversible - or make a harness similar to the one in the Alpine retrofit if i can get socket housings from BMW (i tried last week but they said it was discontinued...) I just need to know where is the proper place to get power from? I couldn't find the correct wiring diagram for my year model, but in previous models the power came from the junction box and wired to the fuse box (behind the glove box). Could i just wire it from the battery and add an inline fuse? And how do i add another device to the MOST Bus loop? Saw this sort of thing on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Y-Adapter...item2ee3652ec1 And of course there will be coding but is it option "S674A HI-FI SYSTEM HARMAN KARDON" or "S677A HIFI SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL DSP" Will actually make a DIY if this pans out. Last edited by reisf; 12-30-2015 at 05:18 PM..
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07-11-2015, 04:05 PM	#2
tracer bullet Brigadier General 2410 Rep 3,544 Posts Drives: '11 135i , '15 X3 35i Join Date: May 2011 Location: Saint Paul, MN iTrader: (1)	Random thoughts: A Technic harness might have the connections you need. Even if coded, does your head deck have a MOST output? You mentioned a picture, not sure about anyone else but I don't see one in your post. I'd think power from the battery w/ a fuse near the battery would be fine. Choose a good grounding spot and make sure you use the right size cables. This is of course assuming the amp will indeed turn itself on and off and is functioning correctly in that regard. You mentioned elsewhere having an aftermarket amp, JL I think. You may want to go that route even if it takes a 2nd amp. Might be less work. It'll almost definitely provide more power, which at a minimum the underseats will need compared to a stock HK amp.
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07-11-2015, 11:30 PM	#3
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Argh the pic didn't upload Attached Images
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07-12-2015, 09:27 AM	#5
tracer bullet Brigadier General 2410 Rep 3,544 Posts Drives: '11 135i , '15 X3 35i Join Date: May 2011 Location: Saint Paul, MN iTrader: (1)	Yeah, you'd think the 2 prong plug would be power & ground. Only makes sense... wonder if the other is an output for some reason? Can't think of why. Strange... No idea on the option #, sorry. Just throwing out the little info I know of the HK system when I was researching my upgrade + soem general 12V background not specific to this car. You've got a project on your hands! Though it does seem like you're off to a good start and know what you're doing.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-16-2015, 10:18 AM	#6
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Mate i love doing electrical mods i retrofitted iDrive, OEM Xenon headlights, LED Taillights, Cruise Control, a Combox, Alpine hifi system and the mad logic 7 subs with the JL Audio amp. Does you HK amp have the same 3 connectors? Last edited by reisf; 07-16-2015 at 10:31 AM..
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07-21-2015, 03:05 AM	#7
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	So my project just got a whole lot more interesting - turns out the parts are the complete package from the BMW Individual Audio System, which probably explains why the connectors are different... So now realising that this may not even be possible because Individual Audio was never offered on the 1 series, but still hoping that i can pull it off because, in terms of electronics, the 1 and 3 series are mostly the same car.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-21-2015, 03:13 AM	#8
questionable S50B32 40 Rep 415 Posts Drives: E30 318is Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Australia iTrader: (1)	I have retro fitted logic 7/hk it is do able. Just a massive pain
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08-16-2015, 08:53 PM	#11
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Ok so i did some basic voltage and resistance testing on the 2 pin plug and determined that Pin1 is +12V, Pin2 is ground. Then installed it loose in the car, added it to the MOST Loop and reprogrammed the CIC with option 752 (Individual audio) however i couldnt get the amp to turn on. I tried reading the new module that showed up "MAMP" with NCSExpert however it couldnt communicate with the amp. I also tried testing it with INPA and it also coudn't read it. Also tested the speaker outputs with a multimeter and didnt see anything... So any thoughts? the car is able to be reprogrammed for individual audio and i'm out of ideas...
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-18-2015, 07:05 AM	#12
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Did some more testing today, i measured pins 10/20 with volt meter and it appears the amp is outputting 12V from those 2 pins... I also tried reprogramming the CIC with $677, $688, and $752 and couldn't get the amp to turn on. (these are different TOP-HIFI option codes on the 1 series, 752 is individual audio. Also thought that maybe i had the MOST loop wiring inverted and i tried that in every permutation but that didnt appear to help. Anyone have any ideas on how to wire the thing?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-22-2015, 08:27 AM	#13
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Today for the hell of it i tried using pins 10 and 20 as input power source and reprogrammed CIC with 677 688 and 752 and again nothing happened... I'm sure it has something to do with those 4 pins in the most connection because i saw these pics from an X-something. Note the bits in red. Attached Images Last edited by reisf; 08-22-2015 at 08:37 AM..
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09-16-2015, 12:59 AM	#14
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Aaaaaannnnnnndddddd.....Installed! Process was quite simple, but i was missing one piece of information that stifled the whole process because this particular amp is only available on M Cars. The secret was that Pins 1 + 2 in the MOST fibre optic connector on the amp needed to be bridged with a jumper cable. This got the amp to turn on. Basic process: 1. Power - Using the 2 pin connector for power, positive 12V fused was wired off battery and grounded at a ground point in the boot. Pin 1 is positive, pin 2 is negative. 2. MOST jumper - bridge the top two pins in the MOST socket with a jumper wire. 3. Add to most loop - I salvaged some MOST fibre optic wiring from an old e90 at a wreckers and added it to the MOST distribution block, which in my car, was under the left rear passenger seat bolster. 4. Wiring speakers - pretty straight forward - i got a 20 pin connector off ebay and looked up the pin outputs on an online WDS, then i made a wiring harness to run to the speaker junction at the underseat subs (My car was a base stereo model and the underseat subs connect to the door speakers) as well as the rear speakers 5. Install speakers - Replace all speakers with EPS/Individual audio speakers as they have different ohm ratings. 6. Coding - Remove your old audio system option number from the vehicle order and replace with $752 and recode CIC ...3 months later... Done and it sounds amazing I just need to get the appropriate boot liner trim and bracket to tidy it up. Last edited by reisf; 09-16-2015 at 03:04 AM..
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09-16-2015, 06:00 PM	#15
tracer bullet Brigadier General 2410 Rep 3,544 Posts Drives: '11 135i , '15 X3 35i Join Date: May 2011 Location: Saint Paul, MN iTrader: (1)	Nice job! Glad you got it figured out.
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12-29-2015, 04:16 AM	#16
Pierre26 Private First Class 20 Rep 105 Posts Drives: 2009-335D Pack M Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: France iTrader: (0)	Additional info @reisf: it is about the MOST: Ref is: 61 13 6 901 844 inside there is the 4 pins plug (61-13-6-905-200) where: N°1 =?, N°2 is 12Volt, N°3 is Ground and N°4 = ?. I saw (in other thread) that pins 1 and 2 needs to be bridged in order to run the Amp. In the post#13 last pic showing 2 plugs in your hand, it 's about the power plug, do you red the Ref because unavailable (no Ref) in BMW base as for the 2 pins connectors, waiting for to complete the job ... If you can modify the title of your tread as Retrofit to individual now that you achieve it no ? and could be sticked as Diy ... Anyway, thanks man !
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-03-2016, 12:11 AM	#18
Pierre26 Private First Class 20 Rep 105 Posts Drives: 2009-335D Pack M Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: France iTrader: (0)	Individual Amplifier Upgrade - All Plugs and Pins @reisf, finally i 've got the final answer; First bridged pins is highlighted, see under (from ISTA-D) You can see why the power Plug is hard to find in the ''note'', but found it! Ref is: 6113 6 907 385. Connectors (x2): ''Receptacle'' LSK8 4-6 mm² Ref : 1252 1 436 649 are the right ones which I have bought and sealed (6 Euros for both) and better than: Double leaf spring contact 4-6mm² Ref 61138377734 (which moves in the plug because 6,3 mm width instead of 10 for the above one and the difference of width is not described in BMW parts). --> All the needed information about Plugs and connectors are from 2er Talk.de, I translate it in English: https://www.sendspace.com/file/o5wg40 Original file: http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt All done! ISTA note and pdf : https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/...BDA1OA6U4osimw or: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8v...ew?usp=sharing And additional info about coding with NCS expert: My car is 2009 but before September, if so look at the first data in your FA (after the #) and change with FA write (and then code) by this value #0909 before adding 752. I mess it and when the HU was back of sleep I loosed the $752 option (and back to HiFi). This last one must only added to the CAS (then code) and to the NFRM (then code it) Doing this way, the MAMP option is automatically launched by NCS with the right parameters for DIRAC, no need to use NCS dummy (or you can read the TRC file to see them, according your car). Last step I didn't have sound ... After lot of time verifying with INPA saying all the modules OK, I suddenly realize that the Volume was to 000000 !!!! Well the dream is achieved. Last edited by Pierre26; 03-16-2016 at 03:38 AM..
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03-30-2017, 03:49 PM	#21
ccfj1 Tinkerer 83 Rep 533 Posts Drives: F25 X3 M-Sport Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Brighton, UK iTrader: (0)	Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but Im doing this exact install, but I have the older style am (without the separate 2 pin power block). Do I still need to use the jumper in the MOST connector? I've made the loom and pined it as per WDS (10/20 for power and gnd) the rest speakers. I just need the MOST pins. Many thanks (in advance). __________________ 2014 F25 X3 335d M-Sport:
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