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01-13-2013, 04:25 PM | #1 |
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Dyno Run, any suggestions?
So I dynoed today. Not happy. Full bolt on, JB4, 93 octane, map 2..Run is choppy on paper, not a smooth line, I don't know why..No issues, aside from a few different times I tried to start my car over the past few weeks, and it wouldn't start. The only way to describe it is basically the very beginning of a start, it cranks for like 1/2 a second and stops. Once I push start again it starts up fully. I've been told that maybe new (better) spark plugs would help the dyno run better and more smooth, as well as the start up issue. Well, that's why I'm here, to get some answers and make my car healthy. Any advice? Thanks.
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01-13-2013, 04:33 PM | #2 |
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Notice that smoothing is set to 0 on the print out,
Smoothing of 5 would make it nicer. Just graphics
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01-13-2013, 05:12 PM | #4 |
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yea, he said he couldn't find a hook up for tq unless I took off my engine cover..as far as checking the AFR, I don't think that he even had anything out there. Aside from the dyno shop, what's going on with my power?
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01-13-2013, 05:49 PM | #5 |
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Map5 with FBO. You're robbing yourself of at least 1.5-2psi boost the whole curve.
Also find another dyno. If he can't check and monitor your AFRs, he's a hack.
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01-13-2013, 07:13 PM | #6 |
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Possible HPFP issues, tho i highly suggest finding a better shop to dyno at, as others have suggested. AFR and other readouts would be a pretty clear indication if you're having fuel delivery problems during a proper dyno.
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01-13-2013, 07:44 PM | #7 |
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Without backing out what the torque curve looks like, it is interesting how long the car holds maximum horsepower, over 25 mph on the curve the car holds maximum horsepower, interesting, weird.
Maximum horsepower normally looks like a bump. OP, what gear was the dyno run in, and are you auto or manual? |
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01-13-2013, 08:11 PM | #8 |
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With out a base run on a stock car, no one here can tell you if the car isnt running optimal. For all we know the car on that particular dyno could have put down 245WHP stock. The shop should have smoothed out the graph for you and gotten better reading for you. Find a better shop and re-dyno...IMHO
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01-13-2013, 08:25 PM | #9 |
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Cool, cool. Thanx for the replies. Idk what my base was prior to mods as this was my first dyno w the car. He's not my "dyno guy", I was at a car show today and they were there so I figured I would put the hog on there. Good to know all this info tho, I'm not very dyno savvy like I said I popped my cherry today. I will change maps, and I guess next time make sure its all set up. I will log it w the JB4 as well. Thanks again. Also the first pull was in 3rd and the 2nd in 4th, mt.
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01-14-2013, 09:23 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Don't do any changes until you try another dyno shop. |
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01-14-2013, 10:15 AM | #14 |
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Based on a 6mt running about 136 mph at 7000 rpm, I calculate the torque curve to look like this from the horsepower data.
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01-14-2013, 10:19 AM | #15 | ||
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Quote:
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01-14-2013, 10:36 AM | #16 |
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Its not the dyno operators fault if he didn't want to or didn't know how to remove the engine cover, which needs to be removed to get a RPM reading. I took my cover off for the dyno guy when I went.
AFR however is a simple tailpipe sensor so no excuses there.
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01-14-2013, 10:45 AM | #17 |
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What's your mileage? Could carbon buildup be gunking up your engine and affecting the performance/causing your startup issues?
Dyno doesn't look terrible... though not ideal. Like someone else said, try map 5 after running it for a while and letting the car adjust. Also try another dyno shop.
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01-15-2013, 09:59 AM | #18 |
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It's only 20,000 miles. I am on map 5 now. I guess I will try another shop and see what the results are.. Also the engine cover is not hard to take off, but I didnt have any tools to do so when I was there.
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01-15-2013, 10:24 AM | #19 |
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01-15-2013, 10:36 AM | #20 |
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