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05-17-2014, 12:51 AM | #1 |
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Clunking Noise at Low Speeds, Bumps?
Hello all,
I began hearing a metallic clunking noise at low speeds (5-20 mph) over bumps on the front driver side wheel area. There is no such noise at cruising or highway speeds. The sound happens regardless of wheel turn. The steering wheel itself feels good, no play, vibration or apparent alignment issues. Has anyone had this happen? Any fixes for it? The car is a 2009 135i, stock everything. |
05-17-2014, 09:19 AM | #2 |
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Sway bar end links could be loose or worn out.
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05-17-2014, 12:22 PM | #3 |
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05-17-2014, 01:10 PM | #4 | |
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Should be easily diagnose-able by any tech with half a brain.
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05-17-2014, 02:38 PM | #5 |
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Thanks a lot for the advice. I'll have the dealership take a look at it since it's in warranty.
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05-19-2014, 05:52 PM | #6 |
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Resolution?
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05-20-2014, 01:26 PM | #7 |
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The dealership said that the front stabilizer bar end links and thrust arms "have play" and need to be replaced.
They quoted me about $1000 to get everything done, which includes a wheel alignment. I have the BMW gold extended warranty through 2015, but they said that this was wear and tear and would not be covered under warranty. Thoughts? Is this a DIY job or something that I should let the pros handle? |
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05-20-2014, 01:33 PM | #8 |
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End links are EASY. Thrust arms I am not familiar with so I don't want to tell you something and have it not be true.
My gut says it's all just a few bolts and just DIY it then take in for alignment. You always have the option of buying OEM BMW parts yourself, leave them in the bags sealed and take them to the dealership/indi service for install to save yourself the parts up-charge.
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05-20-2014, 02:50 PM | #9 | |
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What annoys me is that the car, being bone stock and never driven hard, already has suspension issues. On top of that, BMW says that it is not covered under warranty. |
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05-20-2014, 03:55 PM | #10 |
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Welcome to BMW. The amount of suspension parts that require replacing due to wear and tear is pretty astonishing. This is the price you pay for having such a great driving machine.
I would say these parts are normal around the 75-100k mark, so if you're near that mileage it's not a surprise. Might as well upgrade to the m3 arms while you're at it. |
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05-20-2014, 05:33 PM | #11 | |
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How much are m3 replacements? Are there thrust arm as well as end link replacements? |
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05-20-2014, 05:57 PM | #12 | |
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Is their only one end link per side? Thanks in advance. |
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05-20-2014, 06:42 PM | #13 | |
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05-20-2014, 08:02 PM | #14 |
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05-20-2014, 09:26 PM | #15 | |
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I would disconnect the strut side first, then the sway side, put he new one on in reverse order, hand tighten connections, then load suspension and torque down.
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05-21-2014, 12:25 AM | #16 | |
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If not, does the entire control arm need to be replaced or can I just do the bushings? I've read that it varies by the car and didn't know how the 135i worked in this aspect. |
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05-21-2014, 06:54 AM | #17 |
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You could just do the bushings, but that's more of a pain in the ass. The TRW M3 arms are fairly cheap.
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05-21-2014, 10:06 AM | #18 | |
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I'll probably just get the end links and control arms and have my shop replace them. |
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05-21-2014, 10:14 AM | #19 | |
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09 LMB M3
Retired: 05 MB 330i, 08 CS 135i, 17 EB M240i, 13 CB 135is, 16 ABM M4 |
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05-21-2014, 11:14 AM | #21 | |
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To answer your questions: Yes No Yes (I used FCPEuro to get my control arms, it really doesn't matter just make sure you're getting the right part numbers). If you get the M3 control arms you MUST get the headlight adjusting rod. FWIW you can also get them on Amazon.
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