front camber is not an issue!

[yandy]

Originally Posted by uratomb

Driver's side:


Passenger's side:



Also my plate didn't seem to fit on my car, I have to cut one of the bolt shorter each side in order to fit it.

Is it just me; or does this not look right? Those numbers should be going towards the inside (towards motor) on both sides in decreasing order -1.0, -1.5 and so on. That install looks weird, but I'm going by my own Vorshlag install, not GC so I could be wrong.

[int2str]

Originally Posted by yandyr

Toe is what really kills tires; what do you run for toe in the front?

Are you sure about that?
It seems hard to believe that negative camber wouldn't be at least involved in killing the inside shoulder of a tire, given that that's what you're driving on when going in a straight line then. Tire rack also has an article about this:

"Less negative camber (until the tire is perpendicular to the road at zero camber) typically will reduce the cornering ability, but results in more even wear."
Source: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...&affiliate=HJ3

[fourtailpipes]

i think the orientation looks right to me (i'll verify when i get home), but the forward-most hat stud was lining up with the 2.5 marker at maximum setting for me. i ultimately backed it off quite a lot to get to a more realistic amount of camber, leaving it roughly where the above pictures show (a little past the 1 marker), so in my case, i was able to get significantly greater range.

[fourtailpipes]

Originally Posted by int2str

Are you sure about that?
It seems hard to believe that negative camber wouldn't be at least involved in killing the inside shoulder of a tire, given that that's what you're driving on when going in a straight line then. Tire rack also has an article about this:

"Less negative camber (until the tire is perpendicular to the road at zero camber) typically will reduce the cornering ability, but results in more even wear."
Source: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...&affiliate=HJ3

both camber and toe have significant impacts on tire wear patterns, and should be set according to driving style. speaking broadly, some toe-out (or decreased toe-in) should be paired with increasing amounts of negative camber to neutralize things (but this is not always the case).

[pixelblue]

Originally Posted by yandyr

Is it just me; or does this not look right? Those numbers should be going towards the inside (towards motor) on both sides in decreasing order -1.0, -1.5 and so on. That install looks weird, but I'm going by my own Vorshlag install, not GC so I could be wrong.

yeah I noticed that too. should be going in the other direction. when I first had my plates installed they were installed backwards. needless to say never went back to them

[fourtailpipes]

Originally Posted by pixelblue

yeah I noticed that too. should be going in the other direction. when I first had my plates installed they were installed backwards. needless to say never went back to them

the plate marked with the indicator numbers moves inboard to increase (absolute value) negative camber. looks right to me. just not sure why his stops there and mine continues much further inboard.

[uratomb]

Originally Posted by pixelblue

yeah I noticed that too. should be going in the other direction. when I first had my plates installed they were installed backwards. needless to say never went back to them

Let me double check it with my other shop to clarify.

Originally Posted by fourtailpipes

the plate marked with the indicator numbers moves inboard to increase (absolute value) negative camber. looks right to me. just not sure why his stops there and mine continues much further inboard.

The shop who did the installation and alignment told me that's the max it can go. I will double check with my other shop later as well.

Will let you guys know soon

[uratomb]

Confirmed.
It is installed to the wrong side. No wonder I needed to cut the bolt

The shop has good reputation so I think they didn't mean to make that mistake.

Now I should decide whether I should upgrade my suspension......... Since the whole thing needs to be out again Lol

[pixelblue]

I don't think it's a matter of wrong side. the plate is facing the wrong direction. take a look at this picture

[yandy]

yea, all you have to do is loosen them up and spin it around till it faces the correct way

[rvsixdriver]

Originally Posted by pixelblue

I don't think it's a matter of wrong side. the plate is facing the wrong direction. take a look at this picture

I must be missing something. In your reference picture as well as urotombs pics above, the CL and lower numbers are toward the motor and away from the windshield, higher negative values are toward the fender, so all are alike. In all pics, increasing negative camber would move the CL toward the motor and slide the numers to a higher negative value relative to a fixed position on the frame.

Uratomb, are you sure the installation is incorrect, because if so, mine is incorrect as well. Mine is just like your installed by a highly experienced shop. Note, we also had to cut one stud under the brace same as you. Note that I also e-mailed pics to GC to verify installation and they found no issue.

I will say that we got -2.1 no problem, but that is all we were shooting for.

Can incorrect installation account for increased noise and clunking on GC street plates?

[fourtailpipes]

here are mine. they're indicating about one more degree than i see above, and they have a lot more room to move inboard. looks to me like uratomb's plates are oriented correctly. it's pretty tough to get wrong... they're very clearly labeled. first pic is of passenger side, second is driver's side. they're set at 2.5 degrees right now, a long way short of the maximum i was able to get.

also, the studs are of equal length and symmetrical (about the axis) position, so the orientation of the plate should have no bearing on whether or not a stud would need to be cut under the strut brace.

[pixelblue]

Originally Posted by fourtailpipes

here are mine. they're indicating about one more degree than i see above, and they have a lot more room to move inboard. looks to me like uratombomb's plates are oriented correctly. it's pretty tough to get wrong... they're very clearly labeled. first pic is of passenger side, second is driver's side. they're set at 2.5 degrees right now, a long way short of the maximum i was able to get.

also, the studs are of equal length and symmetrical (about the axis) position, so the orientation of the plate should have no bearing on whether or not a stud would need to be cut under the strut brace.

yours also needs to be flipped. your showing -2.5 in the wrong direction. on the other hand his is not only pointing in the wrong direction but also backwards. can't see the difference?!

[fourtailpipes]

Originally Posted by pixelblue

yours also needs to be flipped. your showing -2.5 in the wrong direction. on the other hand his is not only pointing in the wrong direction but also backwards. can't see the difference?!

i do not see a difference in orientation between his installation and mine. mine are installed correctly, and the indicator markings are correct. higher (absolute value) numbers should be toward the fenders.

[pixelblue]

shouldn't the negative values be towards the engine? also between your two pictures, I see the markers going in different directions. am I not seeing it right?

[fourtailpipes]

the higher numbers should be toward the fender because the markings are on the piece of the plate that carries the strut bearing. as the bearing moves inward (increasing negative camber), the higher numbers are displayed in the center of the plate. if you look at the picture you posted in post 31 above, you can see the fixed piece in silver which has an arrow indicating where among the numbers on the floating (labeled) plate you've landed. i imagine on the e9X this arrow can be seen, but in the e8X, this arrow is obscured.

[rvsixdriver]

Originally Posted by fourtailpipes

the higher numbers should be toward the fender because the markings are on the piece of the plate that carries the strut bearing. as the bearing moves inward (increasing negative camber), the higher numbers are displayed in the center of the plate. if you look at the picture you posted in post 31 above, you can see the fixed piece in silver which has an arrow indicating where among the numbers on the floating (labeled) plate you've landed. i imagine on the e9X this arrow can be seen, but in the e8X, this arrow is obscured.

I agree. Your installation is exactly like mine and the orientation is consistent with picture posted by pixelblue above.

[fourtailpipes]

Originally Posted by rvsixdriver

I agree. Your installation is exactly like mine and the orientation is consistent with picture posted by pixelblue above.

...which brings me back to my original question: why am i seemingly able to get far more adjustment range out of my plates than has been reported elsewhere? there remains some inconsistent information, and i'd like to get to the bottom of this.

uratomb's plates do not appear to be anywhere near their maximum setting, yet he reports he's not getting any more adjustment out of them. is the stock spring running into the unibody preventing further movement? my KW V1 uses a spring with the same upper seat dimension as a stock spring, but perhaps the spring diameter in the middle is greater with a stock spring than the KW causing clearance issues? i can't really think of any other reason why the plate would stop there.

[DriveHard]

Originally Posted by rvsixdriver

I agree. Your installation is exactly like mine and the orientation is consistent with picture posted by pixelblue above.

I concur as mine are the same..

I didnt have to cut the bolt under the brace, but i did have to put a washer onder the brace to hold it up just a bit..

I will cut all of them as they are way way too long..

also to add to my review.. the plates have quieted down some, i guess the found there happy spot and the springs settled etc etc.. much more easy on the ears when daily driving .. ( they were a bit "thunky" when first installed )

[fourtailpipes]

Originally Posted by DriveHard

I concur as mine are the same..

I didnt have to cut the bolt under the brace, but i did have to put a washer onder the brace to hold it up just a bit..

I will cut all of them as they are way way too long..

also to add to my review.. the plates have quieted down some, i guess the found there happy spot and the springs settled etc etc.. much more easy on the ears when daily driving .. ( they were a bit "thunky" when first installed )

on my first 2-3 drives after installing, mine were also extremely noisy. after things settled and i retorqued everything, i havent heard a peep from them aside from the slight overall increase in road noise transmitted to the chassis from the firmer strut bearing.

[uratomb]

Just emailed Ground Control about it.

Will see what they say

[fourtailpipes]

Originally Posted by uratomb

Just emailed Ground Control about it.

Will see what they say

cool. let us know.