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06-04-2012, 06:33 PM | #23 |
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Talked to my mechanic friend whose doing the alignment for me. He recommended me to not dial it too agressively. Instead of focusing on the final number, to focus on how much change I am dialing in. At the limit, the dynamics of the vehicle can change quite drastically if the alignment is tweaked too much. Only after being comfortable with the new setup, then should I retune it for more or less camber/toe as desired.
This is from the top of my head. I still haven't got my car back yet. Picking it up later along with final alignment numbers. What I had before. Front -0.5 camber, ~.1 toe in Back -1.9 camber, ~.2 toe in. New settings. Front -1.6 camber, ~0 toe. Back -1.9 camber, 0.08 toe in. Apparently, -1.8~-1.9 of rear camber is the default factory spec for the rear camber. So it's actually staying with factory spec here.
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06-04-2012, 08:02 PM | #24 | |
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Enjoy your new plates and alignment. -Josh |
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06-05-2012, 06:19 AM | #26 |
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06-11-2012, 10:52 PM | #27 |
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Lately I'm noticing that there's a small tick sound times when I am turning my steering wheel. Otherwise the presence of the camber plate, aside from handling differences, is hardly discernible.
Any clue why the clicking sound? It's as if the central rod of the strut is being turned. Before with the stock hat, the hat turns fairly freely. The Ground Control Camber plates does not turn on itself as freely. Is it because of that, that the struct rod gets turned instead when I'm steering, leading to the clicking sound? Anybody notice that? On the handling. It's definitely much better. Turn-in's easier. More cornering grip. At -1.6 up front, on an AutoX I went to this weekend. I'd say it's not enough camber up front. It can definitely use some more. That said there is no excessive shoulder wear despite aggressive AutoXing. So I say -1.6 is good for street and ok for AutoX. But you definitely want more if you want to bias the car more for AutoX than street. Track day coming up the next Monday. I will report back if I have more thoughts then!
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Last edited by BiscottiGelato; 06-12-2012 at 02:49 PM.. |
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06-12-2012, 05:40 AM | #29 | |
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06-12-2012, 06:51 AM | #30 | |
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Have you tried spraying lubricating oil into the plates to possibly allow them to move more freely? -Josh |
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06-12-2012, 08:31 AM | #31 | |
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So I ordered GC Street plates and will run -3.2 with 1/8" toe-out for track and whatever it adjusts to (around -1.2 and 1/16" toe-in) for street. From what I've read in other threads, I'm expecting a small amount of clicking or creaking from the GC Street plates. |
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06-12-2012, 09:28 AM | #32 | |
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06-14-2012, 11:53 AM | #33 | |
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06-14-2012, 01:27 PM | #34 | |
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06-14-2012, 03:31 PM | #35 |
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Sorry, I meant "Spring Hat", the stock part they use to hold the top of the spring. The one that came with mine had a wider flange than the OE BMW part, so it rubbed when I set it to maximum camber. It looked exactly like the OE part, it was just wider, so it probably came off some other BMW. The replacement they sent was exactly the size of the OE part. The box the plates came in had the right part number, so they must have just made a mistake in assembling them.
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06-16-2012, 08:56 AM | #36 |
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Josh is your suspension stock? Do you have any rubbing issues at all and would this setup work with Konis FSD's and BMW performance springs without rubbing issues or fender rolling?
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06-17-2012, 11:30 AM | #37 | |
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-Josh |
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02-16-2015, 08:29 PM | #38 |
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I know this is a old thread but i was wondering, I will be running ST coilovers and my wheels are vmr vb3s 18x8.5 et40 and 18x 9.5 et45. Will i have to get spacers to clear? Also i am going to get Ground control camber plates.
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