BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      05-09-2015, 11:51 AM   #1
zerofire
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Exclamation Help needed, car is in limp mode

Hello!

Thanks for taking the time reading this. I need some help figuring out what's wrong with my 128i 6speed (2010).

Long story short, tried to give someone a jump, now check engine light came on, went to autozone and they gave me code P1056. Did a google search and it came up with:

- Faulty Valvetronic Control Motor
- Valvetronic Control Motor harness is open or shorted
- Valvetronic Control Motor circuit poor electrical connection

Car turns on fine, runs until I turn it off, I can even drive it around but I believe it's in limp mode? When idling and I try to give it gas (and I mean stomp the petal to the floor) the rpms barely reach 3,000 rpms.

Went into the hidden menu to option 9, voltage shows: 12.4v when off, 14.0-14.1 when running, and 13.6-14.0v with everything on (ac, seats, lights, & radio).

Some people are telling me it's the alternator? Any/all help/suggestions/advice is very much welcome.

Also, how can I test to see if the valvetronic motor is still good? Is there an ECU of some sort that connects to the valvetronic motor/actuator that I could've possibly toasted/shocked?
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      05-10-2015, 01:49 PM   #2
zerofire
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Update: Found something but still need help

Hey all, went digging around my car and started probing around everywhere with a multimeter.

Nothing seemed out of place but then I came across a post where someone said that there's a power distribution box WITH a fuse inside of it (located directly on top of the battery).

I'm still not 100% sure if this is the part and I apologize if this seems/sounds dumb to ask but I'm no electrical engineer.

Anyways, my question is this: When I put the prongs on one of the fuses multimeter goes off/makes a beep/sound. When I put the prongs on the other fuse, it's absolutely silent. Now I know this isn't rocket science, but am I correct to assume that this part is faulty?

Any insight, questions, or comments very much appreciated. Need to track this issue down. Thanks all!
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      05-10-2015, 08:16 PM   #3
rrinker
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Not sure if that's a fuse, since the small terminal looks like it's marked + and the large one looks like maybe -. Might be a diode. In your first pic with the meter - reverse the probes, put the red on the small tab and the black on the big part and see if you get a different reading. Also test from connection point to connection point, both ways. Next position counter-clockwise on your meter is diode check, but it really helps to know the rating of the part you are testing in order to interpret the reading as good or bad.

--Randy
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      05-11-2015, 10:58 AM   #4
zerofire
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Hey there Randy, thanks for taking the time to look into this with me.


So the part we're looking at is INSIDE of the power distribution box that's located on top of the battery (underneath the bracket). The ONLY terminals that connect this distribution box are positive terminals. The ground goes directly to the battery, so all of these terminals are supposed to have a positive terminal going too it.

I've posted some additional pictures, i'm PRETTY sure this thing is toasted. If I look closely on the black fuse/box looking thing on this thing it says:

(Small Terminal)
32V BMW
GHW 13466

(Large Terminal)
32V BMW
GHW 13468

The # located on the bottom is the part #:
6114-6936657.
I'll be going to BMW later today to pick this part up. Will gladly update everyone once I get the new part in. Thanks again Randy!
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      05-11-2015, 06:15 PM   #5
zerofire
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Talking FIXED!! Education time :D

Hey all!

Fixed it! w00t! So it WAS the power distribution box that was faulty that was causing my issue (P1056).

Just wanted to let everyone know that this worked and that this solved my problem. I spent $70 on this part vs $400+ (for a vvt motor). I've seen SEVERAL posts with people that have this same problem (p1056). I've seen them replace their VVT motor, VVT ecu, all to come down with the same issues that they were having in the first place.

I'm not saying that this will fix/work for everyone's problem related to their vvt, but it damn sure is a cheap & effective place to start.

Check the fuses (like I did) with a multimeter. I've attached some additional photos to show you where my part was located. Thanks for looking everyone!
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      05-14-2015, 09:11 AM   #6
KNS
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Thanks for updating.
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      12-10-2017, 01:14 AM   #7
1NOLA1
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Thank you for figuring this out!
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      12-11-2017, 05:01 AM   #8
juld0zer
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Those are fusible links
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