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      04-08-2012, 06:36 PM   #67
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Glad to hear it was the problem in the end mate and it s all sorted! Ill let you in a secret with the coding as well, leave it on hifi, it didnt sound nearly as good on sterio as the head unit still outputs all the silly EQ settings on sterio. Give it a try though...

I really enjoy the sound of my alpine upgrade, sure you could probably buy better for 1000+, but for $500 installed im really happy!
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      04-08-2012, 07:19 PM   #68
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great read guys I really appreciate the info shared...

has any one installed in an 09 model 135? I saw reference to 2 different kits then I got all confused....LOL

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      04-10-2012, 10:54 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdaws View Post
Glad to hear it was the problem in the end mate and it s all sorted! Ill let you in a secret with the coding as well, leave it on hifi, it didnt sound nearly as good on sterio as the head unit still outputs all the silly EQ settings on sterio. Give it a try though...

I really enjoy the sound of my alpine upgrade, sure you could probably buy better for 1000+, but for $500 installed im really happy!

Superdaws... So did your radio have the EQ settings before you did the Alpine amp?


My 2010 has only the base(base) radio. I've been thinking about doing this install... but I would really love to have an EQ as well. I was under the impression there is no way to code my radio for the EQ with this Alpine amp. ?


Thanks
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      04-10-2012, 08:32 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Superdaws... So did your radio have the EQ settings before you did the Alpine amp?


My 2010 has only the base(base) radio. I've been thinking about doing this install... but I would really love to have an EQ as well. I was under the impression there is no way to code my radio for the EQ with this Alpine amp. ?


Thanks
Dackel
Yeah, in Aus all our 135's come with the "Professional" radio as a minimum and i had the basic audio with the car (ie no tweeters etc and didnt take the option for any upgraded audio). The professional head unit then has some really heavy equalisation output from it (hidden and built into the code) to compensate for the lack of quality of the base speakers (so ive been told). I agreed with this because after i installed the alpines (before coding) it sounded better but not 100% right. When coding it in the CIC its default is "sterio" which means its outputing all that EQ to try and make it better than what it is. Once you code to "hifi" it removes all the EQ as it now thinks its one of the upgraded audio packages... it makes the alpines sound WAY better.

There is a difference with the "Business Radio" alpine kit. There is some extra wiring to be installed into the sub contoller (aparently there is only 1 woofer).

As for the EQ settings to come up on Idrive, mine doesnt. I believe you can code it as someone has tried but you then dont get any audio whatsoever cause its designed specifically for the Logic 7 system. So no, i dont think you will be able to get that with the Alpine kit.
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      04-10-2012, 10:45 PM   #71
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That expalins why BMW dealership in Australia charged so much for the labour installation and coding while the part is farily priced.
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      04-11-2012, 07:13 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Superdaws... So did your radio have the EQ settings before you did the Alpine amp?


My 2010 has only the base(base) radio. I've been thinking about doing this install... but I would really love to have an EQ as well. I was under the impression there is no way to code my radio for the EQ with this Alpine amp. ?


Thanks
Dackel
It is possible to activate the equaliser controls in iDrive by setting the appropriate CIC module parameter to "premium_hifi" (from memory) or "m_individual_sound" (again from memory so might not be entirely accurate but you get the general idea). The only trouble is that you then get no sound out of the unit at all
I suspect that these settings switch the head unit to output for the HK system which clearly does not use the same channels as the lower level stereo's - more than likely a digital output rather than analogue.

I think it would be great to get an amp that could take these HK system outputs!
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      07-13-2012, 12:55 AM   #73
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I didn't want to start a new thread, so thought I'd use this one.

How have people connected aftermarket subs? I just installed tweeters (pnp thankfully) from a wrecked 135i, so next up is adding some bass. I'd rather a 10 or 12" sub in the boot than adding/upgrading underseat OEM items...

Any info would be appreciated. I have the base spec audio system.
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      07-13-2012, 12:58 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woosh View Post
I didn't want to start a new thread, so thought I'd use this one.

How have people connected aftermarket subs? I just installed tweeters (pnp thankfully) from a wrecked 135i, so next up is adding some bass. I'd rather a 10 or 12" sub in the boot than adding/upgrading underseat OEM items...

Any info would be appreciated. I have the base spec audio system.
I have a cheap Fusion Sub if you want PM for more details.
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      07-13-2012, 01:15 AM   #75
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I have a cheap Fusion Sub if you want PM for more details.
I can get subs for a good price from a mate here in Sydney so I'll pass. Thanks though.
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      07-13-2012, 02:35 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woosh View Post
I didn't want to start a new thread, so thought I'd use this one.

How have people connected aftermarket subs? I just installed tweeters (pnp thankfully) from a wrecked 135i, so next up is adding some bass. I'd rather a 10 or 12" sub in the boot than adding/upgrading underseat OEM items...

Any info would be appreciated. I have the base spec audio system.
If your going aftermarket subd other than an under-seat upgrade then i believe you may need a proper amp to run it off....
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      07-13-2012, 02:43 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdaws View Post
If your going aftermarket subd other than an under-seat upgrade then i believe you may need a proper amp to run it off....
Yup, I factored for an amp too, just wanting some knowledge on how to hook it up and if it's all possible without upgrading the headunit.

Anyhow, just did some research and found a company with experience in e82 upgrades - they commented that adding a sub to the base spec audio will have no real gain, unless coupled with a few other upgrades. Will have to email them to see what upgrades they recommend.

The last resort is just adding under-seat subs. I'm not aiming for a doof doof machine, so it should suffice either way.

edit: I wonder if coding the head unit will allow some more options in only adding an amp and sub.

Last edited by woosh; 07-13-2012 at 02:49 AM.
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      07-13-2012, 04:05 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woosh View Post
I didn't want to start a new thread, so thought I'd use this one.

How have people connected aftermarket subs? I just installed tweeters (pnp thankfully) from a wrecked 135i, so next up is adding some bass. I'd rather a 10 or 12" sub in the boot than adding/upgrading underseat OEM items...

Any info would be appreciated. I have the base spec audio system.




I did a bit of an upgrade... Alpine kit and then an amp and sub... anything specific you want to know?

That's a JL Audio 10w6v3 - running off a pioneer monoblock...
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      07-13-2012, 04:07 AM   #79
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I am more interested in your Performance umbrella mate ?

on topic - i love your sub setup
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      07-13-2012, 04:14 AM   #80
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Haha.. it's the ///M one - they gave it to me... I bitched about the fact that my Honda one didn't go with the car so that gave me that one... The Honda one was better...
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      07-13-2012, 07:03 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woosh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdaws View Post
If your going aftermarket subd other than an under-seat upgrade then i believe you may need a proper amp to run it off....
Yup, I factored for an amp too, just wanting some knowledge on how to hook it up and if it's all possible without upgrading the headunit.

Anyhow, just did some research and found a company with experience in e82 upgrades - they commented that adding a sub to the base spec audio will have no real gain, unless coupled with a few other upgrades. Will have to email them to see what upgrades they recommend.

The last resort is just adding under-seat subs. I'm not aiming for a doof doof machine, so it should suffice either way.

edit: I wonder if coding the head unit will allow some more options in only adding an amp and sub.
A sub wil have no real gains?? LOL .. A stereo without a sub is barely a stereo.. The added volume and clarity in the <100hz range adds such huge feeling and depth to the music, as well as letting you 'feel' it more.

And as for the 'underseat speakers'. They're just as important as the sub for 'feeling' music, as well as sound/clarity. Midbass is what gives you the 'kick' in the music, which you feel hit you, where the sub more makes you feel surrounded by air pressure

Ed: you can hook the amp up by jumping on either the left or right speaker outputs, as the sub amp lets you low-pass filter out non-subbass, and adjust the gain accordingly

Unless the hu has rca outputs.. Or anything otherwise (not as far as i've seen? I'm still yet to replace my head unit.. (have all the wiring even -_-) I don't actually believe there is a dedicated sub output.

Another ed: people referring to the underseat speaker as subs annoys me like crazy, they're not subs, 6.5 inch speakers in a component (2 or 3-way system at least) don't have the power handling or cone area.. Or dedicated frequency range.. To accurately reproduce loud subbass while simultaneously producing midbass (way too much conflicting excursion) - yes i know there are some products (even down to 4" clusters i think) but they still suck hard in comparison to a 'proper' even low-end 10 or 12" in terms of higher volume
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      07-13-2012, 09:00 AM   #82
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In relation to the Alpine Upgrade Kit, for those that have done a self install/self coding, i finally got around to changing the cars vehicle order (VO) in the CAS and recoding the CIC based on the new VO, rather than just changing the audio profile to hifi. It seems to have gotten rid of the 1 sec delay between the rear speaker and fronts on initial startup, i havent looked into what other setting were changed yet with the VO, just thoguth id add it might be worth doing if you havent already.

-edit- sry guys tested it again today and the 1 sec delay was there this time again. I dont know what changed it, but the VO did not fix it, sry for the misinformation.
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Last edited by Superdaws; 07-13-2012 at 10:51 PM.
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      07-13-2012, 09:21 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
A sub wil have no real gains?? LOL .. A stereo without a sub is barely a stereo.. The added volume and clarity in the <100hz range adds such huge feeling and depth to the music, as well as letting you 'feel' it more.

And as for the 'underseat speakers'. They're just as important as the sub for 'feeling' music, as well as sound/clarity. Midbass is what gives you the 'kick' in the music, which you feel hit you, where the sub more makes you feel surrounded by air pressure

Ed: you can hook the amp up by jumping on either the left or right speaker outputs, as the sub amp lets you low-pass filter out non-subbass, and adjust the gain accordingly

Unless the hu has rca outputs.. Or anything otherwise (not as far as i've seen? I'm still yet to replace my head unit.. (have all the wiring even -_-) I don't actually believe there is a dedicated sub output.

Another ed: people referring to the underseat speaker as subs annoys me like crazy, they're not subs, 6.5 inch speakers in a component (2 or 3-way system at least) don't have the power handling or cone area.. Or dedicated frequency range.. To accurately reproduce loud subbass while simultaneously producing midbass (way too much conflicting excursion) - yes i know there are some products (even down to 4" clusters i think) but they still suck hard in comparison to a 'proper' even low-end 10 or 12" in terms of higher volume
Please reread what I wrote. I said adding a sub 'only' to the base system will have no real gains, unless coupled with a few other things (eg: amp).

Thanks for the explanations of the various speakers. I'll call it the underseat woofer from now on.

Here's the site I was referring to: http://www.musicarnw.com/bmw-subwoofers/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlequin View Post
I did a bit of an upgrade... Alpine kit and then an amp and sub... anything specific you want to know?

That's a JL Audio 10w6v3 - running off a pioneer monoblock...
Nice work there. I came across your older posts in my forum search yesterday. I wonder if that member still makes the enclosures!

OK, so my question is if I'm able to tap into the standard amp on the base system and run the external amp/sub off that? I think the my10 didn't come with an amp in the base system, but apparently versions before it did. I'll have to check my boot to confirm it (my09).
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      07-14-2012, 12:19 AM   #84
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Adding $676 to VO changes the following in CIC:

AUDIO_SYSTEM_CIC from stereo to hifi
HFP_AUDIO_PROFILE from profile_1 to profile_4

You are correct, it makes a difference & is the right way to do it.
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      07-14-2012, 12:30 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fontana302 View Post
Adding $676 to VO changes the following in CIC:

AUDIO_SYSTEM_CIC from stereo to hifi
HFP_AUDIO_PROFILE from profile_1 to profile_4

You are correct, it makes a difference & is the right way to do it.
Ive done a comparison of my cars CIC TRC's, and the only difference after adding the VO was AUDIO_SYSTEM_CIC.
HFP_AUDIO_PROFILE was not even an entry in my CIC file. No other changes made. 2010 E82.
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      07-14-2012, 02:14 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woosh View Post
Nice work there. I came across your older posts in my forum search yesterday. I wonder if that member still makes the enclosures!

OK, so my question is if I'm able to tap into the standard amp on the base system and run the external amp/sub off that? I think the my10 didn't come with an amp in the base system, but apparently versions before it did. I'll have to check my boot to confirm it (my09).
Thanks

As far as I know he does. His name's Ben - on here he's TPLSM3. He built the enclosure and sent it over here (got it in 10 days -including build time) for half what Northfield Car Audio wanted to charge me - and they wanted the car for 3 days to create the moulds.

I had to wait until I had the Alpine kit in mine so that I could tap off the outputs from that Amp as mine's an MY10.5 and had no amp as standard. The way I understand it (and I'm not an expert on other peoples' cars - just my own) is that if your car came from factory with tweeters in the A-Sails then you'll have an Amp. If not, then most likely no Amp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by woosh View Post
Thanks for the explanations of the various speakers. I'll call it the underseat woofer from now on.
I prefer to think of the under-seat speaker as part of the front channel. Effectively a 3-way setup. Tweeters, Midrange (In the doors) and Drivers (Under the seats). The drivers do a good job of filling in the gap you often get between the audible bass and the sub-bass - smoothing out the curve, so to speak...
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      07-14-2012, 06:39 AM   #87
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Well a sub simply won't without amplification, head units do something like 50w max output.. You'll barely move a sub let alone produce audible bass at that

Tweeters in the panels means you have the upgraded audio so yeah i believe amps, definitely also not an expert on that subject

3 way front setup is the best basic layout of speakers, you want 2.5 octaves (2x frequency is one octave) per speaker for optimal setup, which really needs more than 3 lol.. 20-70hz for sub-bass driver (subwoofer).. Then i can't remember the rest lol.. Midbass (aka midwoofer) would be til roughly 300hz (maybe 400 depending on speaker characteristics etc), , 1000-1500 depending for midrange, then above that for tweeter, with rolloff's crossing over between each speaker for blending
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      07-16-2012, 06:35 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlequin View Post
Thanks

As far as I know he does. His name's Ben - on here he's TPLSM3. He built the enclosure and sent it over here (got it in 10 days -including build time) for half what Northfield Car Audio wanted to charge me - and they wanted the car for 3 days to create the moulds.

I had to wait until I had the Alpine kit in mine so that I could tap off the outputs from that Amp as mine's an MY10.5 and had no amp as standard. The way I understand it (and I'm not an expert on other peoples' cars - just my own) is that if your car came from factory with tweeters in the A-Sails then you'll have an Amp. If not, then most likely no Amp.



I prefer to think of the under-seat speaker as part of the front channel. Effectively a 3-way setup. Tweeters, Midrange (In the doors) and Drivers (Under the seats). The drivers do a good job of filling in the gap you often get between the audible bass and the sub-bass - smoothing out the curve, so to speak...
Yup just checked - no amp.

Ok, back to square one. I need to figure out what I want in terms of sound. Thanks for highlighting the main areas for improvement (and you too flinchy!). I wish I had the knowledge you guys have - it'd save me a lot of time researching and getting quotes for installation.

Before spending $500 on the Alpine kit, I'll see if it's possible to use the Hi-Fi or Top Hi-Fi amp for the base stereo. Then it'd be a lot easier to do a Sub / Driver upgrade . Let's hope that 135i I last visited has the stock amp left in it should I get it's headunit also (assuming he'll let it go for cheap)?
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