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01-10-2015, 05:07 PM | #1 |
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ECS 2PC ROTOR AND HAWK High Performance Street Compound
Hey guys
Last night was commuting to my GF place in heavy rain on the M4 motor way from Cumberland HWY turn off to the end of M4. Travelling at 90km most of the way without feathering the brakes for most of the way. I had a car merge out from the right lane to the left lane, Applying the brakes to slow down from 100km. My friggin brakes did not work. There was NO bite at all, foot was farly firm on the brakes. MY heart was pumping out of my chest after that. This also happen this morning on the way to work. Dry days are fine. Question has anyone experience this sensation?? Rotor and pads set up are not new.. At lease 30000km on them. Last edited by UR25IO; 01-13-2015 at 02:28 AM.. |
01-10-2015, 05:25 PM | #2 |
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I've got hawk ceramics & ECS rotors, I've noticed only more noise with rotors. The pads when cold are pretty average, they don't have that bite like the oem ones. But I prefer the more linear bite.
I've noticed on the m4 when the pads are cold they take a heavy foot to bite, has taken awhile to get use to it. I've had heart beating out of the chest more than once now. |
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01-11-2015, 12:26 AM | #3 |
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Maybe the pads are not bedded in properly yet? Just take it easy for the time being especially in these weathers we are having in Sydney.
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01-11-2015, 02:19 AM | #4 |
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Replace your brake pads for BMW ones. Problem solved.
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01-11-2015, 04:06 AM | #6 |
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01-11-2015, 05:56 PM | #8 |
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Wet rotors / pads = no stopping no matter what setup.
If the wheels and rotors are not hot and there is lots of spray then the rotors and pads can get wet. They wont stop very well until they are dry from friction or heat. I've had it happen on long FWY runs in several cars. ONce you have a few normal stops and normal heat the rotors they should work fine. Same with any puddles you may drive through while rotors are cold. Do you still have the dust shields still on ?
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01-12-2015, 12:09 AM | #9 |
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I had Hawk and never really noticed a prob with them wet or dry. Strongly recommend the Bendix Euro + soooooo much better (and better than OEM i reckon too!)
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01-12-2015, 04:28 AM | #10 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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01-12-2015, 04:37 AM | #11 |
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It's a street / light autox pad. Pagid RS29 one of the better track pads. A good combo pad is Performance Friction 1038.
My recommendation is, use a street pad on the street. Swap to a track pad for the track. I know its hard to do on a monoblock caliper so maybe Performance Friction is worth a look. Dont even think about Cool Carbons |
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01-12-2015, 03:00 PM | #12 |
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Rain will make virtually no difference, imagine how fast those rotors are spinning at highway speeds!
It's all about a lack of heat with the pad outside it's operating temperature range. I'd suggest this is a result of the pads not bedded it properly and the lack of heat for this pad. If you change the material type that pads are made from, some of the old material is still on the surface of the rotor. The rotor needs to be cleaned of old material. Ensure the rotor is smooth too, with no ridges, otherwise a new pad will only be in contact with the raised portions.
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01-12-2015, 05:59 PM | #13 |
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Most high performance pad except the full racing ones will slow a car down even when cold and you will feel improved retardation as the temp grows in the pads and rotors
There is something else going on if the foot is hard on the pedal and the car is not slowing down.
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M3 front and rear arms, M3 Front and rear ARB , Quaife LSD, BMW performance wheel (non electronic), 135i Brakes, DS2500 pads, Apex wheel studs, Adjustable Bilsteins, API Half cage, Hankook Z221's (track) and Bridgestone RE002's (street) 225's all around |
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01-12-2015, 07:26 PM | #14 |
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I did a couple of times and they were OK.
I now run Endless ME20 on track and they are awesome (expensive though), they are also very civilised on the street. So much so that I have been slack about switching back to the Soptech street pads. This is in Stoptech ST-60 calipers. |
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