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      10-04-2016, 12:50 PM   #1
rhodesman
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when replacing tie-rods, do I got with e82/88, or 1M rods?

Just curious if it matters that I get the tie-rods specific to my model car or the 1M rods. I ask because I do have the 1M/M3 lower control arms and I'm about to have a new coil-over set with camber adjustments arriving in the next couple of weeks. I wasn't sure if the 1M rods are a little longer to allow for more adjustment or stronger or is the price difference between them just because of some ///M tax?

rods in question:
e82/88:

link

1M:
link
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      10-04-2016, 01:30 PM   #2
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      10-08-2016, 11:50 AM   #3
rhodesman
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I gave up waiting for an answer. I just went with the OEM e82/88 versions over the 1M ones (because I know they'll work). It appears they are the same size and maybe the 1M is slightly lighter or something, it really doesn't matter to me anymore. I just want the F-ing steering knock to stop!
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      10-23-2016, 11:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chesticals View Post
Also interested
Not the 1M ones, just the none M OE, but HD version.

http://www.hpashop.com/BMW-E8X-E9X-Z...Rod-E8x-9x.htm
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      10-24-2016, 07:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesman View Post
I gave up waiting for an answer. I just went with the OEM e82/88 versions over the 1M ones (because I know they'll work). It appears they are the same size and maybe the 1M is slightly lighter or something, it really doesn't matter to me anymore. I just want the F-ing steering knock to stop!
you need to choose 1m/m3 rods only if you have 1m/m3 uprights (knuckles). they have different geometry, so 1m/m3 rods has different length.

all other parameters are the same - not lighter, stiffer, brighter, smells better etc
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      10-24-2016, 11:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slonik View Post
you need to choose 1m/m3 rods only if you have 1m/m3 uprights (knuckles). they have different geometry, so 1m/m3 rods has different length.

all other parameters are the same - not lighter, stiffer, brighter, smells better etc
Very few have done the complete 1M/M3 front end swap so the none M version is more applicable here.
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      10-24-2016, 01:23 PM   #7
rhodesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Very few have done the complete 1M/M3 front end swap so the none M version is more applicable here.
Thank you all! That's the answer I was looking for...even though my tie-rods were fine and the real problem was a loose steering rack bolt!
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      11-17-2016, 04:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by slonik View Post
you need to choose 1m/m3 rods only if you have 1m/m3 uprights (knuckles). they have different geometry, so 1m/m3 rods has different length.

all other parameters are the same - not lighter, stiffer, brighter, smells better etc
Very few have done the complete 1M/M3 front end swap so the none M version is more applicable here.
Excuse my ignorance but what does a complete front end swap include. Tie rods, tension struts, sway bar, control arms, hubs?
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      11-19-2016, 07:04 AM   #9
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For what it's worth HD would be the best bet. I thought about doing the 1M tie rods and sway bar links. However there is no certainty on fitment and HD would be a very close equivalent with the upgraded bushings being close to M standards.

Believe the Z4 HD tied rods fit our cars.
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      11-20-2016, 02:04 PM   #10
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1M/M3 tie rods will not fit. You need the change out the spindle. When I put retrofitted my m3 rack, I had to use re use my 135i tie rods.
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