Repeated door ajar warning while drive and repeated window drop down?

[reisf]

Ok so my car is being stupid with the doors and windows.

This is what it does when i unlock the car:

And it keeps doing this unless i roll down the windows from the key using the comfort opening feature.

Also on top of this i get repeated door ajar warnings (for both driver and passenger doors) when the car is moving...

I have tried the window resets multiple times but that doesn't help, i've also done the reset using ISTA but a same null result.

Does anyone know what is causing this problem? Could a sensor it be the door latches?

Apparently my car has option "8TG - ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM", is this the alarm option? because i don't have a clown nose on my mirror...

[Rons240i]

Mine did the exact same thing as yours is doing when I tried to put after market led angel eyes in. As soon as I put the key in, the windows started doing the exact same thing. So I decided to put them all the way down and take it for a drive. Well ,as soon as I backed out the driveway and started going down the road, the door ajar lights and buzzers just started going off steady. So I ended up putting the stock bulbs back in and everything was back to normal. These were not the cheap Chinese bulbs either. I can't remember the name of them, but I got them from a forum member here. I ended up returning them after several emails. He said he would check them out and get back to me, but I never heard from him again. Anyway, I'm not sure what's going on with yours, but that's what I did when mine was acting the same as yours. Never had a problem with it since. It's a shame because I really like the looks of led bulbs. Sorry, didn't mean to ramble on so long.

[champignon]

Your car is haunted. Did this start around Halloween?

[reisf]

Originally Posted by Rons135

Mine did the exact same thing as yours is doing when I tried to put after market led angel eyes in. As soon as I put the key in, the windows started doing the exact same thing. So I decided to put them all the way down and take it for a drive. Well ,as soon as I backed out the driveway and started going down the road, the door ajar lights and buzzers just started going off steady. So I ended up putting the stock bulbs back in and everything was back to normal. These were not the cheap Chinese bulbs either. I can't remember the name of them, but I got them from a forum member here. I ended up returning them after several emails. He said he would check them out and get back to me, but I never heard from him again. Anyway, I'm not sure what's going on with yours, but that's what I did when mine was acting the same as yours. Never had a problem with it since. It's a shame because I really like the looks of led bulbs. Sorry, didn't mean to ramble on so long.

You know i did have aftermarket LED AEs and i did read about them causing this - but i took them out and put the halogen H8's back in and theyre still doing the same shit.

[reisf]

Originally Posted by champignon

Your car is haunted. Did this start around Halloween?

Actually it was the Eve of Halloween now that you mention it...

Haha but actually it started about 4 weeks ago.

[reisf]

So i took to the car to an Indy Euro Specialist and they traced the fault to "Door lock short circuit" or something similar. I read the same fault with INPA but was good to get a second opinion.

But he thinks that the short circuit is at the Footwell Module, not the actual locks because he said it was highly unlikely that both locks will short circuit at the same time.

I also got told that the battery is dying and that a dying battery could cause this sort of problem? Anyone got any input on this?

[champignon]

Weak batteries can cause all sorts of electronic faults, so I'd guess this can't be ruled out. If your battery will hold at least an acceptable charge, you could put it on a float charger for a couple of days and see if the problem continues.

Sounds like your "Indy Euro Specialist" is pretty smart; I'd suggest that perhaps you go with his recommendations unless your car is still in warranty, or you have reasons to doubt his conclusions.

[reisf]

Originally Posted by champignon

Weak batteries can cause all sorts of electronic faults, so I'd guess this can't be ruled out. If your battery will hold at least an acceptable charge, you could put it on a float charger for a couple of days and see if the problem continues.

Sounds like your "Indy Euro Specialist" is pretty smart; I'd suggest that perhaps you go with his recommendations unless your car is still in warranty, or you have reasons to doubt his conclusions.

Well he pretty much confirmed what i thought the problem would be - i just needed a second opinion. Car is out of warranty, the battery has never failed to start the car but i had the battery tested and they said i should replace it before winter starts. I just bought a new battery today - will get that installed and registered on the weekend. If that fails i'll just buy a new FRM from schmiedmann. BMW (in australia) want close to $1000 just for the new footwell module...

And if that still doesn't fix the problem, i'll buy new door locks.

[reisf]

Ok so it turned out the battery was causing this problem! Have no idea how a low battery could cause a "short circuit" but all good now

[champignon]

Originally Posted by reisf

Ok so it turned out the battery was causing this problem! Have no idea how a low battery could cause a "short circuit" but all good now

I had a Z3 coupe that was throwing all kinds of faults at the independent shop I took it to, and the tech, one smart fellow, suggested that I let him charge up the battery and recheck it. All the faults disappeared. The car had been sitting in a garage unused for several months before I received it.

[blue135]

Somebody on here (don't remember specifically who) posted what i thought was a reasonably accurate explanation. The chips in the electronics require certain voltage/current and as those vary, the results the electronics produce will likely vary as well.

[reisf]

Originally Posted by blue135

Somebody on here (don't remember specifically who) posted what i thought was a reasonably accurate explanation. The chips in the electronics require certain voltage/current and as those vary, the results the electronics produce will likely vary as well.

Yep that's exactly what i was thinking. My thoughts were that because the door lock actuators weren't receiving the correct voltage - they started malfunctioning and the footwell module thought there might be a short circuit due to the incorrect voltage being received.

[jcoop269]

What replacement battery did you go with (AGM/ah rating/CCA)? Just curious because I need a new one and am unsure which one to order. It appears that all the BMW replacements for our car that are AGM are all discontinued and our only three options per RealOEM are 61218381738 70AH 570A, 61218381749 80AH 640A, and 61218381762 90AH 720A. I haven't looked to see exactly which one I currently have but I am curious because I have gotten warnings when looking that it isn't a good idea to change CCA because you have what you should have.

[reisf]

Maybe contact your nearest dealer to clarify - AGM batteries are definitely not discontinued. If you car has an AGM battery you need to replace it with an AGM battery.

The battery in my car is a 70Ah, 720A, 720 CCA part# 61219326470