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      12-09-2014, 06:11 AM   #1
ultimated
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Comfort Access not working

I recently bought a 2009 135i with the comfort access option. The key proximity function has never worked. The local BMW dealer wants $850 to replace the module. Could ignoring this be a problem? I'm happy living without it, but I sometimes here weird electrical noises (hums, clicks) as I walk by the car and I wonder if its trying to actuate. No sign of battery drainage yet.
Thanks in advance.
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      12-09-2014, 06:37 AM   #2
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I think the clicks are normal. Every time I wash my car the doors lock/unlock if my key is in my pocket. If it's not doing that, there might be something else.
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      12-09-2014, 07:14 AM   #3
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My new(to me, no comfort access option) car clicks and buzzes all the time, I would love to know what it's doing.
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      12-09-2014, 08:05 AM   #4
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Arrow two key fob types...

CA key fobs have a replaceable battery. Non CA have a built in battery that needs to be charged in the car "slot". CA fobs don't charge in the slot - so once the battery gets old, it is time for a new one. I would try that first before buying a new ECM for the CA.


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      12-09-2014, 11:00 AM   #5
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I believe there's also a fuse for the CA. That's a cheap fix, too.
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      12-09-2014, 12:18 PM   #6
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The CA module is a $350 part and is very easy to get to. It is behind the trunk liner on the passenger side. I do not know if your original quote was to replace the antennas as well and code if necessary but it seems too expensive.



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      12-09-2014, 01:38 PM   #7
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I found that the CA works less than 50% of the time if I'm carrying my iPhone. CA won't work at all if the key fob is in the same pocket as the iPhone..
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      12-09-2014, 06:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spin_dry View Post
I found that the CA works less than 50% of the time if I'm carrying my iPhone. CA won't work at all if the key fob is in the same pocket as the iPhone..
True with most other remotes as well.
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      12-09-2014, 07:59 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the replies, guys!
1. Remote key unlocks and locks all the doors and trunk, so I think the battery is still good. Still, thats a cheap enough fix to give it a try. I should keep spares anyway.
2. Fuse: I'll take a look. If someone can point me the way, it will save me some time in a freezing cold garage trying to find the right fuse box and fuse. These old bones doth protesteth muchly.
3. Repair estimate: The dealer quoted replacing the module. I can call back and see if that includes the coding and if they eliminated any problems with other components of the system.
Cheers! This is a great forum.
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      12-10-2014, 09:21 AM   #10
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I just had to have mine replaced (under warranty though). The issue was as you described, unlock and lock worked, had to insert key to start the car. Found out there was a bad seal around the gas filler allowing water to enter the area where the module was. They had to replace the seal and module, no re-coding needed. So I would check out the module to see if it's dry and if so just replace it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimated View Post
Thanks for all the replies, guys!
1. Remote key unlocks and locks all the doors and trunk, so I think the battery is still good. Still, thats a cheap enough fix to give it a try. I should keep spares anyway.
2. Fuse: I'll take a look. If someone can point me the way, it will save me some time in a freezing cold garage trying to find the right fuse box and fuse. These old bones doth protesteth muchly.
3. Repair estimate: The dealer quoted replacing the module. I can call back and see if that includes the coding and if they eliminated any problems with other components of the system.
Cheers! This is a great forum.
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      12-10-2014, 03:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdwilli1 View Post
I just had to have mine replaced (under warranty though). The issue was as you described, unlock and lock worked, had to insert key to start the car. Found out there was a bad seal around the gas filler allowing water to enter the area where the module was. They had to replace the seal and module, no re-coding needed. So I would check out the module to see if it's dry and if so just replace it.
I also had my module replaced under warranty. Bad tail-light gasket. The tech wasn't very diligent and left my old CA module in my trunk under the liner, by the tool kit. Peeked inside the housing, it was moldy. Even if you don't find water, might want to separate the module housing a little and see if it's moldy.

The fuse would probably be in the glove box fuse box, your fuse diagram is slipped into a holder in the glove box. You'll see it as you're going to access the fuse box. The diagram is custom to your car and it's options.

See: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260994
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      12-11-2014, 02:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spin_dry View Post
I found that the CA works less than 50% of the time if I'm carrying my iPhone. CA won't work at all if the key fob is in the same pocket as the iPhone..
Mine stopped working for a couple months, then randomly fixed itself. But now that it is working, it always works 100% of the time regardless if I have my phone on me or not.
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      12-16-2014, 01:35 PM   #13
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If the battery in the car is weak, CA wont work at all. Throw a charger on there and see if there is a change.
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      12-17-2014, 08:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
CA key fobs have a replaceable battery. Non CA have a built in battery that needs to be charged in the car "slot". CA fobs don't charge in the slot - so once the battery gets old, it is time for a new one. I would try that first before buying a new ECM for the CA.


Attachment 1127984

Attachment 1127985

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Good advice. About a month ago I was having issues with my CA not working properly. I replaced the battery in the key fob and it started working correctly again.
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      10-06-2016, 07:07 PM   #15
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Digging up an old thread,


anyone know where the front antenna is located? I'm currently checking all my components but looks like the drivers handle.
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