Need help with an oil leak

mecheng03 · 07-29-2016, 07:55 AM

My 2008 135i recently (mid-JUN) had an oil filter housing gasket and head gasket swap by an indy shop while being worked up for a check engine light. After the service I had to take the car back because one of the engine block bolts along the edge of the head gasket was missing and my strut bars were finger tight to completely loose. Even after the second fix they left tools in the engine bay after driving it up for my inspection. They also reported to swap out vacuum lines but I have found some of the old line still present.

Prior to this service my car never leaked oil (garage parked) or burned it to require additional quarts. After the service, there were occasional drips in my garage that I figured was from just a messy job and two weeks after the service I'd given additional 2-3 quarts. Again, I initially figured this was from oil losses not replaced from the recent job.

About 3 weeks later I had to clean oil off both under-belly covers during my cat-less down pipe swap and noticed oil at the junction of the engine to transmission but also on both down pipes/rear oxygen sensors. Fast forward 2-3 more weeks, I dropped a tool on the PCV swap, took off the underbelly again, both engine/transmission plastic covers were covered with oil again and this time now the front oxygen sensors near the turbos had oil drips on them. My oil gauge is still full.

These are my current installs:
-PCV (JUL16) - no leak
-BMS OCC (MAY16) - dry as a bone
-ER charge pip with Forge DV (MAY16)
-Ambient Thermal Management FMIC (FEB16)
-Cobb AP Stage 2+FMIC
-Spark plugs with 2 coils replaced (JUN16) - on my own after the gaskets, no oil seen but how I found the missing bolt
-Serpentine belt(JUN16) - on my own after the gaskets, the front of the engine was covered in old oil and I cleaned as much as I could to better gauge another leak.
-Added 2-3 quarts about 2 weeks after the gaskets after the car warning and the electronic gauge still shows full.

So here are my questions:
-Where is the freaking leak? I suspect the oil pan gasket vs engine/transmission seal but it doesn't explain the moderate drips on the down pipes or on the front oxygen sensors. Also, the engine/transmission is a low point and can come from any source. So before taking on this big 10 hour job I want to make sure this is the case.

- Do I suffer a repeated poor service on this indy shop for continuity? There's a good chance this is a crap job on my head gasket and if so how do I go about proving that to be the case outside of the missing bolt incident. I've tried feeling around the engine block when its cold but have yet to find oil. However, since I never did the job I'm not too familiar with what to look for. I figure the competing indy shop would be another option and maybe even just for inspection.

- Is it possible that the turbo oil lines are leaking? I've only read about them when considering a possible self swap at a much later date and don't know enough about them. I figure this could explain the oxygen sensors.

Thanks,
Eric

Edit:
Odometer at 80,000
Oil changes at 7500
Also had transmission and differential fluid change by the same shop in jan16

mecheng03 · 08-09-2016, 01:44 PM

Just to update, went to a second shop and investigated further with UV dye. The leak was at the replaced valve cover gasket at the back side. Apparently the first shop never cleaned the aluminum surface and also left 2 backside screws off as well. Now I get to joy of disputing the prior transaction for the piss poor service... Yay more $$$ and possibly no refund.
The second shop's owner is writing a statement with pictures and I have the pictures of the front part of the valve cover with missing bolts.

Dackelone · 08-09-2016, 01:59 PM

Yeah... the valve cover is common to leak or crack. Maybe contact the BBB(better business bureau) or threaten to take the first repair shop to court in a certified letter to the shop.

Dackel

mecheng03 · 08-09-2016, 02:08 PM

Right now I'm disputing with USAA's credit card service since it's<120 days and they seemed pretty confident. I've been debating bbb and social media but I find most social media is whining. They did a good job on prior service so I'll probably just leave it at requesting a refund but they obviously have no qa/qc for their work.

07-29-2016, 07:55 AM	#1
mecheng03 Private First Class 9 Rep 120 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adams, TN iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 BMW 135i [0.00]	Need help with an oil leak My 2008 135i recently (mid-JUN) had an oil filter housing gasket and head gasket swap by an indy shop while being worked up for a check engine light. After the service I had to take the car back because one of the engine block bolts along the edge of the head gasket was missing and my strut bars were finger tight to completely loose. Even after the second fix they left tools in the engine bay after driving it up for my inspection. They also reported to swap out vacuum lines but I have found some of the old line still present. Prior to this service my car never leaked oil (garage parked) or burned it to require additional quarts. After the service, there were occasional drips in my garage that I figured was from just a messy job and two weeks after the service I'd given additional 2-3 quarts. Again, I initially figured this was from oil losses not replaced from the recent job. About 3 weeks later I had to clean oil off both under-belly covers during my cat-less down pipe swap and noticed oil at the junction of the engine to transmission but also on both down pipes/rear oxygen sensors. Fast forward 2-3 more weeks, I dropped a tool on the PCV swap, took off the underbelly again, both engine/transmission plastic covers were covered with oil again and this time now the front oxygen sensors near the turbos had oil drips on them. My oil gauge is still full. These are my current installs: -PCV (JUL16) - no leak -BMS OCC (MAY16) - dry as a bone -ER charge pip with Forge DV (MAY16) -Ambient Thermal Management FMIC (FEB16) -Cobb AP Stage 2+FMIC -Spark plugs with 2 coils replaced (JUN16) - on my own after the gaskets, no oil seen but how I found the missing bolt -Serpentine belt(JUN16) - on my own after the gaskets, the front of the engine was covered in old oil and I cleaned as much as I could to better gauge another leak. -Added 2-3 quarts about 2 weeks after the gaskets after the car warning and the electronic gauge still shows full. So here are my questions: -Where is the freaking leak? I suspect the oil pan gasket vs engine/transmission seal but it doesn't explain the moderate drips on the down pipes or on the front oxygen sensors. Also, the engine/transmission is a low point and can come from any source. So before taking on this big 10 hour job I want to make sure this is the case. - Do I suffer a repeated poor service on this indy shop for continuity? There's a good chance this is a crap job on my head gasket and if so how do I go about proving that to be the case outside of the missing bolt incident. I've tried feeling around the engine block when its cold but have yet to find oil. However, since I never did the job I'm not too familiar with what to look for. I figure the competing indy shop would be another option and maybe even just for inspection. - Is it possible that the turbo oil lines are leaking? I've only read about them when considering a possible self swap at a much later date and don't know enough about them. I figure this could explain the oxygen sensors. Thanks, Eric Edit: Odometer at 80,000 Oil changes at 7500 Also had transmission and differential fluid change by the same shop in jan16 __________________ 2008 135i MT A22, LWAL, ZPP, ZSP, 322, 494, 507, 609, 653, 677, 6FL MHD, ATM FMIC, ER Chargepipe, Forge DV, VRSF Downpipes, BMW Performance Suspension, RB PCV, CDV delete Last edited by mecheng03; 07-29-2016 at 09:03 AM..
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08-09-2016, 01:44 PM	#2
mecheng03 Private First Class 9 Rep 120 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adams, TN iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 BMW 135i [0.00]	Just to update, went to a second shop and investigated further with UV dye. The leak was at the replaced valve cover gasket at the back side. Apparently the first shop never cleaned the aluminum surface and also left 2 backside screws off as well. Now I get to joy of disputing the prior transaction for the piss poor service... Yay more $$$ and possibly no refund. The second shop's owner is writing a statement with pictures and I have the pictures of the front part of the valve cover with missing bolts.
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08-09-2016, 01:59 PM	#3
Dackelone European Editor 10532 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	Yeah... the valve cover is common to leak or crack. Maybe contact the BBB(better business bureau) or threaten to take the first repair shop to court in a certified letter to the shop. Dackel __________________ Dackel's European Delivery Museum Guide
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08-09-2016, 02:08 PM	#4
mecheng03 Private First Class 9 Rep 120 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adams, TN iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 BMW 135i [0.00]	Right now I'm disputing with USAA's credit card service since it's<120 days and they seemed pretty confident. I've been debating bbb and social media but I find most social media is whining. They did a good job on prior service so I'll probably just leave it at requesting a refund but they obviously have no qa/qc for their work.
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