Dead headlights after car wash!

[Blueherb]

Hey guys,

To make a long story short, couple days ago I replaced my h8 bulbs with Arc LEDs. Today right after wash car I got an Adaptive headlight error. I'm assuming the headlamp seal wasn't as sealed as Id hoped. I instantly pulled over and got out to check and noticed the drivers adaptive light was on but passengers was out. I drove back home asap and when I checked again I noticed BOTH were out. When I tried turning on my high beam I heard a clicking noise from inside the housing and instantly got the high & low beam error. Also, the little green LED on the knob isn't blinking, it's solid which is normal.
I should also mention that the turn signals and rings inside the housing work perfectly fine. I just don't have a night lights a and I don't think it's even legal to drive with just day lights!

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[Blueherb]

Oops. Yes now the green indicator light is blinking. It just takes a while.

[atorreon]

Ouch.... Another victim of an LED install. Hopefully you have warranty brother, replacement is about $2000.00. Good luck

[Blueherb]

Originally Posted by atorreon

Ouch.... Another victim of an LED install. Hopefully you have warranty brother, replacement is about $2000.00. Good luck

Can't say it was the bulbs as they were working fine but that damn headlamp door not being sealed 100%! I would understand having to replace the entire headlight assembly if everything inside was dead, but one light???

[P1]

Not good mate. LEDs and their ballasts are too tight inside those housings, and putting the housings back on is a delicate job.

Take out the LEDs and replace them back with the OEM H8s. What result does that give you?

[Blueherb]

Same thing... The LEDs were working perfectly. I'm positive it was that under body spray that was the nail on the coffin.
I already put in an order for a working ballast + d1s bulb. Going to replace everything and cross my fingers. I didn't order a stepper motor, hoping I won't need it.

[Yeineken]

Yikes this makes me want to go out and make sure I sealed my lights up a 100%. Good luck with figuring out the problem and post your results and finds for the rest of us please!

[cheshirecat79]

I would strongly suggest leaving the lights off until you verify that the lights have both dried out and that you've sealed the leak, otherwise you could be looking at ballast or control module problems in the future.

[MightyMouseTech]

Unfortunately, HID's run at about 20,000 Volts, does not take much water in there to short everything out, and the HID control module is at the very bottom of the headlight, any water that gets in will go straight down into it.

[cmcdonald]

Might be worth a shot to take the electronics out of the light open them up and clean them extensively with isopropal alcohol dry them thoroughly reseal and put then back together. I have gotten water in HIDs on other cars in the past and this did the trick. Worth a shot with how expensive this stuff is.

[Rob Daman]

i used a hair dryer on a ballast once a while back and it saved it.

Originally Posted by cmcdonald

Might be worth a shot to take the electronics out of the light open them up and clean them extensively with isopropal alcohol dry them thoroughly reseal and put then back together. I have gotten water in HIDs on other cars in the past and this did the trick. Worth a shot with how expensive this stuff is.

[Dilmorecg]

I had a similar thing happen to me when I put in my LED's...I saved mine though with silica gel moisture absorbing packs. Just make sure you tie a string around them so you can get them out after...I left mine in for a day or 2 and all the moisture got sucked out and everything works great now.

[Blueherb]

Thanks for the suggestions! I actually have tons of the silica packs lying around so maybe I'll try that while I wait for the ballasts to arrive.

Does anyone have any tips for removing the ballast and which is easiest? I have a write up on doing it from behind the wheel, or by removing the front bumper.

[Blueherb]

Update with some good and bad news...

Good News: I replaced the ballasts and bulbs and everything is working again!! When I pulled out the ballasts water literally dripped out! I used a shop vac with a narrow tip and sat it right next to the plug. Afterwards I blew it with a hot hair dryer for 10 minutes. I hope that got most if not all of it.

Bad News: Im still getting the adaptive error on my dash. I believe the passenger side stepper motor is dead because when I turn on the lights my drivers side go up and down but the other side sits still.

I will try and find a used stepper motor and replace it. I'll make another update when I install it!

[Blueherb]

Update 2:

Replaced the stepper motor in my passenger headlight but didn't have any luck. To be sure the new motor wasn't faulty I tried my original working one and it still did not power. I'm thinking it's definitely something having to do with the wiring.

Does any one have any ideas? Currently everything is working perfectly fine except the passenger headlight motor and an adaptive head light error on my dash.

And on a side note, if anyone wants to buy a stepper motor I have an extra.

[Andrewcoja]

This is why you make sure you actually closed the headlight cover properly.

[Blueherb]

Quick update:

Replaced entire headlight assembly. It came with all functioning components that worked perfectly, however when i installed it i noticed the car's stepper (leveling) motor still was not working. I swapped a working one into the new headlight and still had same problem.

I decided to take it in to the dealership since i also had the adaptive dash error. I get a call from the guy telling me i need 2 new control units (ballasts). I told him that i already replaced both of them with working ones, he then told me that i must to buy *new* ones because they need to be "programmed to the car by vin"... Does this even make any sense to any of you? Not to mention he quoted me $1400 for the job which i politely declined in the mean time.

I would've thought my Footwell module was malfunctioning if anything, but according to him the module is perfectly fine. If the control unit is in fact the problem couldn't they be re-coded? I would think so.

[cheshirecat79]

Originally Posted by Blueherb

If the control unit is in fact the problem couldn't they be re-coded? I would think so.

Yes.

[Blueherb]

Originally Posted by cheshirecat79

Yes.

My thoughts exactly!

Just got off the phone with the tech, he told me flat out that the control module can not be re-programmed... going to go pick up my car from them soon.

[Blueherb]

Just got back from the dealership. I didn't even bother to speak to the rep on the phone, instead i asked to speak to the actual technician that worked on my car. He told me that I would need to replace the ALC (part# 63117180829) its the black part that the silver ballast plugs into. He said that's the actual piece that needs to be coded to my car, this makes more sense.

I still don't know how the original service rep on the phone came up with $1400...silly dealership.

[E92-Lighting]

Originally Posted by Blueherb

Just got back from the dealership. I didn't even bother to speak to the rep on the phone, instead i asked to speak to the actual technician that worked on my car. He told me that I would need to replace the ALC (part# 63117180829) its the black part that the silver ballast plugs into. He said that's the actual piece that needs to be coded to my car, this makes more sense.

I still don't know how the original service rep on the phone came up with $1400...silly dealership.

we tried to warn all members in advance already for AHL issues, sorry to hear..

[Blueherb]

Last and final update.

Replaced the AHL module (bottom black box) with a brand new one ($160 online). Was plug and play, headlights motors work perfectly and no more error!

Incase this happens to any members in the future that no longer have warranty follow these steps:

0. The obvious: Check fuses and any loose/corroded wiring in the headlight assembly.

1. Replace ballast and see if that solves problem. Ballast can be used and found on eBay for $50

2. If your D1S bulb is toast you can find on eBay new or used for about $30 (buy oem preferably, beware knockoffs)

3. It would be rare that your stepper motor would have failed. If you think it has, swap over to working headlight to test it. If working you're ok, if it's still dead you can buy on eBay for about $50

4. Replace your AHL module (bottom black box). At this point your lights SHOULD already have power but your adaptive motors won't be functioning and you will still have a dash error. If the module is already fried from water damage or it was pulled from a different car it will-not-work. You MUST buy a brand new "uncoded" unit.

5. If your car is still messed up at this point you may need a new footwell module. Keep in mind if this module is faulty then other electrical problems should be present (ex. power windows acting strange, adaptive motors randomly moving etc..)

Total spent will be around $250 per headlight versus $1500 at the dealership.
Thanks to the few people that answered any questions I had. If anyone plans on installing LED's or even just opening up the headlight housing, make sure it's a tight seal when you close it back up, and for the love of God stay away from undercarriage car washes!