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12-18-2008, 05:03 PM | #1 |
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Break-in Gearbox and Diff Oil Change
Mike Miller's alternative maintenance schedule, which has been floating around on this site for a while, suggests a "break-in" gearbox and differential oil change at 1200 miles. Just wondering if anyone is following that suggestion and whether anyone has any thoughts on this subject.
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12-18-2008, 10:46 PM | #2 |
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At 1500 miles I'm changing all fluids (except in the radiator), to include the brake fluid, though that is more because I need a higher temp fluid.
I'm having a local, reputable European auto shop do the work.
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04-03-2009, 11:10 AM | #4 |
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IIRC, BMW considers gearbox & differential fluid to be "lifetime" (100k miles) and if you have a auto, the BMW trans. fluid is extremely expensive.
I waited until 70,000 to change the MT fluid in my E46 (Redline MTL) and at 90k, it still shifts like the proverbial butter. Tom |
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05-06-2009, 01:42 PM | #7 |
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There's not drain hole, just a filler hole.
So, you'll likely have to find a way to extract from the filler hole, or take the diff off and pour it out.
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05-06-2009, 02:34 PM | #8 | |
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No no no.....it is simple....just roll the car upside down and let it drain out....then roll it back and refill. Simple. |
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05-06-2009, 02:36 PM | #9 | |
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(Keep in mind I haven't taken delivery of my vehicle yet, so if this is an obvious question, I apologize...) |
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05-06-2009, 03:16 PM | #10 | |
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05-06-2009, 03:38 PM | #11 |
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05-06-2009, 03:46 PM | #12 | |
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1. Drain it. 2. Fill it. 3. Level the car to so the extra oil drains out. 4. Put the plug back on and you're done.
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05-06-2009, 03:56 PM | #13 | |
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Well...the link you provided is a cool site. So I started navigating it and noticed that the extractor tube is pretty small. Small enough to go through the dipstick to extract oil. I'm thinking it might be too small to extract that. Just .02..
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05-22-2009, 06:24 PM | #14 |
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Anybody found any wear particles in the fluid they changed? If there was a drain they would come out too, or stick to a magnetic plug. But, since people are saying there's no drain....
I guess I have the same question for the engine oil and and the tranny fluid. If the typical answer is yes, then I might consider a post break in fluid change. If not, then I'll trust the manual. |
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05-22-2009, 07:27 PM | #15 | |
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The reason there's no drain hole is because the proper way to change the fluid is to pull the cover completely off and clean it out, just like an automatic transmission. The whole purpose for changing the fluid in the differential is to get rid of metal deposits, and that's the best way to do it. |
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05-25-2009, 06:16 AM | #16 |
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@jeremyc74, is that something I should even think about doing at home? And if not, how much should I expect to pay a professional to do it?
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05-25-2009, 10:58 AM | #17 | |
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It's really not a big deal. You just pull the bolts out of the cover and it comes right off. The only bad part about it is the mess it makes. You need a nice wide catch pan because the oil will run down the housing and drip over a large area. You might also need a new gasket (I'd get one just to be safe), depending on the design of the housing. That's cheap. I had a shop do the rear diff in my GTO because I didn't have time, and it was $90 including fluid and friction modifier (only used in LSD). You can probably expect to pay a little more because of the BMW badge, but not a lot. I'd do it myself without thinking twice about it. |
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05-26-2009, 07:16 AM | #18 |
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Thanks for the detail on the work.
But, has anyone changed the diff fluid and found that because of the amount of metal chips/particles they were happy they did it? Or has anyone had a mechanic tell them they were smart to bring it in soon after the break-in mileage was completed due to what the fluid looked like? |
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06-27-2009, 01:37 AM | #19 |
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I was low on differential fluid, so low that it was making a metallic clicking noise. This was prior to 12-months/5000 miles. There was no suspended solids, or film layer in the fluid. It was flushed, and replaced. Noise is gone.
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06-27-2009, 10:50 AM | #20 |
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What is the cover made out of? Do you think it is possible to add a drain opening when you remove the cover? If it is steel, I could just drill a hole and weld on a nut. Seems kind of bad thing to do to a brand new and very nice car but it makes changing the fluid a lot easier. With the right threads on the nut, you could use an aftermarket plug with a magnet in it.
I have not had to remove the cover previously but I completely agree that his is a do it yourself opportunity. I've never paid to have it done. Removing the cover does not change the situation much as long as you have a gasket. You want a fluid transfer pump, however, even if you remove the cover to drain the fluid. You need it for filling. I have one for bottom end lube on my outboard that is new and never used that I might try. It screws onto a quart container. I think 1,300 miles is very early for transmission and rear end. My Suzuki SUV recommends 7,500 miles which is the shortest I've seen. The red line synthetic I added improved the shifting. An opportunity to switch to synthetic or maybe add a drain plug or at least a magnet might be a reason to do it this early. I will probably only do the magnet and only then if the cover or housing is magnetic. I could epoxy it to an aluminum housing but I'm not sure I would trust the epoxy to hold up as long as I plan to keep my BMW. Jim
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06-27-2009, 05:05 PM | #21 | |
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It's aluminium. You could probably drill and tap it, but you really don't need to be changing the fluid in it often enough to make it worthwhile IMO, especially since this isn't an LSD with friction cones in it. The gears themselves don't generate a lot of debris. |
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03-03-2010, 07:27 PM | #22 |
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any life in this old thread - i have a question...
Should I spill out a bit of manual tranny fluid when i change the CDV will some Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF be compatible with whatever's in there to top it back off? |
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