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12-26-2013, 02:51 PM | #23 |
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If you really want to help minimize/prevent warping on cast iron rotors, you should freeze your rotors in liquid nitrogen. This will transform all of the retained austenite to martensite. The cryogenic treatment also involves tempering the rotor after freezing.
This will increase the life of your rotor and prevent warping. |
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12-26-2013, 03:33 PM | #24 | |
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12-26-2013, 03:34 PM | #25 | |
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can't wait! |
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12-26-2013, 04:29 PM | #26 |
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Wow, I wished I would have known this before swapping out my front brakes and rear rotors with non OEM parts. Even though it's been over 2 years with zero problems I feel better now knowing that they will never be as good as OEM parts
Seriously though, what do you tell all those 135i owners with cracked pistons in their OEM calipers? Let’s not kid ourselves into thinking BMW oem is not fallible or that you can't get equal or better performance from the right aftermarket parts. People go cheap and then try and throw all aftermarket parts into the same bucket because of that experience. Being smart and doing your research can yield you good parts and saved money. |
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12-26-2013, 04:58 PM | #27 | ||
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Somehow I don't think I'd see a X5 with puny 114i rotors on it. But I see many American SUV's with tiny front rotors and rear drums. Not a recipe for "performance". Quote:
I have also heard of the NASCAR boys putting brand new rotors outside to rust. Then a year later they machine the rust off and use the rotors. Something about the rust hardening the metal. Not sure if thats a myth or not.
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12-26-2013, 05:05 PM | #28 | |
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Last edited by Blacksport; 12-26-2013 at 05:12 PM.. |
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12-26-2013, 05:10 PM | #29 |
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Yes, that's so true...I did NOT get a letter from Dodge extending my Hemi's warranty to 100,000 miles because of rod bearing failure. I DID get a letter from BMW extending my S54's warranty to 100,000 miles because of rod bearing failure.
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12-26-2013, 07:02 PM | #30 |
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And lets not even get started on the "high" quality of BMW OEM water pumps
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12-26-2013, 07:51 PM | #31 |
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This is nothing but pure myth. Rust will not harden the rotors.
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12-26-2013, 08:26 PM | #32 |
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Yes that's pure myth....but I know a few racers, Joe Huffaker is one, who will leave an engine block outside in the weather for a few months, believing it would relieve internal casting stress and stabilize the block's dimensions. We never did this, but we would nitrate the cranks of the Spitfires and MGs we raced in the 70s to harden the bearing surfaces. Being cast iron, they were very delicate.
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12-26-2013, 09:17 PM | #33 | |
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12-27-2013, 06:30 AM | #34 | |
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Got a scanned letter or something I could look at? BTW, I keep on hearing the term warped in this thread. I would like to know how that happens on a car that is daily driven. |
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12-27-2013, 07:31 AM | #35 |
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Are we really going to debate Dodge being the bottom end of western car makers?
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12-27-2013, 08:00 AM | #36 |
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12-27-2013, 08:07 AM | #37 | |
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Also, I accept that everyone makes mistakes. Fortunately as BMW owners we are in a fairly unique position in the car community where there is a fairly high level of both technical ability and disposable income surrounding our brand. As a result, we have well made products like Stewart water pumps and Zionville radiators that provide permanent lock down solutions for our few design errors.
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12-27-2013, 08:11 AM | #38 | |
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Kgolf, if you're still with me, here's a tip on rotor warping: everybody knows that a "floating" rotor is much less prone to warping than a 1-piece rotor. So if you have 1-piece rotors, how do you keep them from warping? You probably can't in the long run, as I've found out with my Durango's rear discs. Stopping a 2.5 ton vehicle is hell on brakes. My Viper warped the rear discs, too. But here's what you can do to reduce warping: if you just had a fairly hard stop, maybe a traffic light quickly changed when you were racing an old Camaro, while you're sitting at the light, DO NOT have your foot on the brake...the rotor will cool down evenly except where the pads are clamping it...that un-even cooling will warp the rotor over time.
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12-27-2013, 08:45 AM | #39 | |
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@Blacksport, I own a Z4M...and have 30 liters for 10w60 sitting in my garage to do oil changes every 3k miles or after track events for the reason of avoid rod bearing wear. I wanted to see the letter because I want to have documentation in case I ever have to replace my rod bearings, I can get BMW to compensate me. About the warped rotors, I've never had warped rotors during autocrossing or track events....only pad deposits that can be mistaken as a warped rotor. That is what I was trying to say. Yes, you can warp a rotor...but it is very hard to do so. |
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12-27-2013, 08:57 AM | #40 |
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The letter doesn't pertain to your S54, only 01's and maybe 02's...they had the problem fixed by then...but I'll dig out the letter and email it to you, if you want....PM me your email...BTW, I turned down that Z4M I was looking at...I'm still looking, but have too many projects going already...
Changing the oil after an event is good...but the most important thing you can do to protect your rod bearings is warm the oil completely before your event....
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12-27-2013, 09:24 AM | #41 | |
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No need to send the letter, I thought it was across the board for all S54s. Keep on looking at the Z4Ms, you'll find a steal sometime sooner or later. |
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12-27-2013, 10:31 AM | #42 |
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Rod bearing recall was due to the bearings themselves not being made to spec for early S54 engines, not a spree of lead foot cold start dock workers. After attempting to blame it on the owners, and then oil pump software, BMW initiated a recall in 2004 for E46 M3s with the model year of '01 to '03. The '03.5+ E46 M3 already had had the issue fixed at the factory(and in reality, all '03s were fine), as well as all Z4M coupes as they were produced long after the issue. The S54 Z3M coupes were never included in the recall despite all being built with the faulty bearings.
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12-27-2013, 10:51 AM | #43 |
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Cast iron rotors can warp from a microstructure change within the rotor. Some rotors will have retained austenite in the structure, which is relatively soft, and it will transform to martensite under stress or severe temperature change. This transformation also involves a change in volume, which causes the rotor to warp, since the volume change is not uniform. That is why a proper controlled freezing/cryo treatment, followed by tempering, of the rotor will help prevent warping.
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12-27-2013, 11:14 AM | #44 | |
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Last edited by Blacksport; 12-27-2013 at 11:25 AM.. |
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