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10-19-2011, 01:40 AM | #1 |
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Racing Brake E8x 135i two-piece Front Rotors
Rotor Material: Racing Formula Alloyed Gray Iron & Heat treated
Machining: Open Slot Surface: EDP Coating w/cross cut grinding on friction surface Click here to learn how RB two-piece rotors are built differently than the competition. Weight Comparison One-piece (slightly used) 21.60 lbs. RB Two-piece 15.00 lbs. Weight Savings: 6.60 lbs. Material: Alloyed iron formula adds strength and heat resistance. Heat treating further improves rotor performance for a more uniform and stabilized microstructure. Design: Design: *The cooling vanes are of a convergent nozzle design, which increases airflow and turbulence and makes discs cooler. (Illustration #1) *The center-mount flanges for hat mounting to the rotor ring have several benefits. (Illustration #2) It allows the ring to be used on either side of the vehicle simply by mounting the hat on either side of the ring (unidirectional). The stress load transferred from the ring to the hat is balanced. Air inlets are widely open to both inboard and outboard sides of the rotor. More air suctions and even temperature on both sides of the disc surface. Heat transfer from the disc surfaces to the hat is even and minimized by increasing the flange length and the airflow around the flanges. Mounting flanges are on both friction surfaces ultimately provides excellent heat balance. *Exclusive full floating design with 10.9 grade alloyed hardware. Hardware is DACRO coated and crimp locking. DACRO is highly corrosion resistant and provides a film for easier movement between the hat and rotor ring as disc expands and contracts and the crimp design provides positive engagement without rattling or torque loss at temperature. *338x28mm (13.1" X 1.1") - 2.0mm thicker than OE Fasteners: Self Locking - 2 Pieces No springs, No glue, No clips! Price per set $797.64 Sale Price $717.88 Order here: http://www.hpashop.com/product.sc?pr...categoryId=243 Last edited by HP Autosport; 02-23-2012 at 03:03 PM.. |
02-23-2012, 03:59 PM | #3 |
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Thanks for posting these upgraded rotors Harold. So these rotors are +2mm thicker... but I guess you have to "cut down" your new brake pads to have everything fit over the rotor? Or do you also sell special narrower brake pads to go along with these thicker rotors? |
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02-23-2012, 04:23 PM | #4 |
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i'm guessing 2mm isn't enough of a difference in thickness to cause any fitment issues.
are replacement rings available? how much? is there any indication that there will ever be a matching rear fitment? |
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02-23-2012, 04:47 PM | #6 | |
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No, not rear application at this time. You can contact RB for more details |
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02-24-2012, 01:28 PM | #7 |
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02-24-2012, 05:38 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
No, the 1M/M3 calipers although the same dimension externally use a different size piston. More pedal travel will be required so it's not ideal. In addition, in able to use the 1M/M3 size rotors you will need to use the 1M/M3 caliper brackets, which don't fit the 135/335i spindles at all. If it were that easy, we would have done such an upgrade on the the 335i to start off instead of a BBK. |
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12-30-2014, 10:46 AM | #10 |
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Thread revival time ...
I track my modded 135i a lot, and never completely got rid of brake fade on stock rotors + calipers + rubber lines + Motul RBF600 fluid, using a variety of brake pads. The best results I ever obtained were when I used fresh Project Mu Club Racer 09 pads. They had zero fade issues for several track days, but eventually crumbled and lost some heat dissipation due to thinning pad thickness. I realize I need to work on cooling, or bringing cool air to the center of the rotors more efficiently. My wider wheels and 255/35R18 tires in the front aren't helping. Ive tried Hardbrakes 0.5mm Ti heat shields, BMW F30 "winged" dust shields, with no noticeable cooling effects. Also tried bending the shields some more. Yesterday, in an effort to determine whether brake duct flexible piping could be fitted and routed from my front bumper vents to the center of my rotors, I lifted the car up and turned the steering from left to right. There is absolutely no room in there without pinching and severing the flexible tube. Stock 135i caliper seals and pistons also need to be refreshed. Im thinking about buying RB 2-piece rotors with caliper seal + piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines ... or ... an entry level BBK ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 12-30-2014 at 12:23 PM.. |
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12-30-2014, 11:31 AM | #11 |
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I personally think it's a no brainer to go from a 338x26mm solid disc to a 355x32mm(Stoptech) floating disc that is at least 4 lbs. lighter and provide much needed thermal mass and much better cooling. You will also get a 6 piston caliper that is a couple of pounds lighter than stock and take minutes to change pads and have a much wider selection of compounds.
Thread where stock and Stoptech are compared: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=36 |
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