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      03-18-2013, 04:01 AM   #23
Aussie_in_London
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Bloody Eibach springs lol

I run the DDC kit which are basically V3's, and have no noise.
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      03-30-2013, 09:45 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EIN M View Post
a) I used to drive a E46 M3 with PSS9s and one day I got to drive one with the KWs. The difference was readily apparent and I promised myself to get a set one day!
Interesting to hear this. I have experience with an e46 M3 on Pss9's and had no complaints. Damping was beautiful and they felt like an excellent street/track compromise. I've driven (autox and back roads) my coworker's TT-RS on V3's and they didn't seem that much better than the PSS9's.

I am torn right now, since they both feel great. It's all coming down to pricing, as I can get a deal on Bilstein products, however I am not sure what type of a deal I can get on KW's.

Are they THAT much better on the e82 chassis?

TIA.

Last edited by Artsee; 03-31-2013 at 11:36 AM..
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      03-31-2013, 08:37 AM   #25
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I wonder if KW will send us back those silicone sleeves to cure the noise...
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      03-31-2013, 09:16 AM   #26
MDORPHN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EIN M View Post
You got it. I will post specific alignments specs once it goes on the laser rack. Right now I picked it up with a "racing alignment" (???)
-2.0 of camber up front I think. Sounds kind of extreme for the street so I think I'll dial it back down to -1.5. Damper settings are the ones recommended in the owner's manual.

As far as ride impressions go, much has been written on the topic but I can concur that the ride is indeed superior. It feels and drives in a more "sporting" manner yet it is more compliant and refined. Nice trick KW
-2.0 is definitely not too much and I certainly wouldn't consider it a race alignment.

FWIW, I run 3.0 negative camber year round on the front of my 1M along with 0 toe. Run 2 degrees in back with a bit of toe-in.

Neil
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      03-31-2013, 03:18 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
-2.0 is definitely not too much and I certainly wouldn't consider it a race alignment.

FWIW, I run 3.0 negative camber year round on the front of my 1M along with 0 toe. Run 2 degrees in back with a bit of toe-in.

Neil
Neil, this is slightly off topic but: I am soon getting Vorshlag adjustable camber plates for OEM struts, the suspension/chassis of my car including ride height will remain essentially stock (I just have stock size PSS, better brake fluid and a modified cdv; street type upgraded brake pads and stainless steel brake lines will probably go in at the same time with the new plates and that's about it) and sadly I am not tracking here due to absence of a track. But I still have back roads that I use and abuse where I do feel the camber of stock car is not great and there is a tiny bit of lack in turn in/sharpness so my question is: shall I start with 2.0 camber and 0 toe front, back untouched and see what happens/how I feel and later maybe move towards 1.5, or the vice versa: starting with 1.5? I have zero first hand experience in playing with cambers and casters if you didn't notice already.

Thanks in advance,
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      03-31-2013, 07:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artsee View Post
Are they THAT much better on the e82 chassis?

TIA.
I wouldn't be able to answer that question as my 1M is the only 1M I have ever sat in, much less driven. However, my experience in the e46 M3 was that the PSS9s were harsher on the road and offered no additional suspension control.
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      03-31-2013, 07:26 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
-2.0 is definitely not too much and I certainly wouldn't consider it a race alignment.

FWIW, I run 3.0 negative camber year round on the front of my 1M along with 0 toe. Run 2 degrees in back with a bit of toe-in.

Neil
Thank you. It's good to know what other 1Ms are running on the street for a frame of reference. I ended taking my M to the boys at Texas Track Works in Fort Worth. A bit of a drive from Frisco but totally worth it. The guys there are not only top-notch in knowledge and professionalism, but are also cool as hell

Here is a shot of my baby up on the Hunter rack and a shot of the fabulous "A.J." doing his thang...he even had me sit in the car while getting the numbers spot on!!!

I decided on -2.0 front and -2.0 back for starters. I've read that conventional wisdom is running less camber in the back but Kyle at TTW suggested that I try this set-up and see how it felt for me.

So far I couldn't be happier with the components I chose and the way they are set-up.

I have all my fellow 1Addicts to thank for taking the time to post reviews on these expensive components (and the many more that are next on my list) and helping me avoid regrettable and costly mistakes

Thanks guys... !!!
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      04-01-2013, 04:39 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EIN M View Post
Here's a shot of one of the camber plates installed. Beautiful things.
you have to rotate 90° your plates to be able to change camber
now you will only increase caster......
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      04-01-2013, 03:53 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
you have to rotate 90° your plates to be able to change camber
now you will only increase caster......
???

I'm not sure I get what you're saying but my front end is lowered 1.75" and I still easily got -2.0 degrees of camber with room for more with the plates oriented the way they are.

Am I misunderstanding you?
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      04-11-2013, 09:46 PM   #32
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Which brake lines did you get?
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      05-07-2013, 09:53 AM   #33
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It's suprising how orientation of the plates got questioned(thought I was the only one, in the past). Had same issue on my 135 with with Kw V3. Great setup in ride quality with my V3 + Dinan camber plates, but I needed to be able to adjust my camber and be able take full advantage of the V3. So I went with Vorschlag CP & Swifts springs, then the clunking began, then the orientation of the Vorschlg CP was questioned by our alignment guy. Also lose my alignmt spec (mostly camber) after an auto-x day (makes me wonder now how often I need to re-align the car).
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