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07-14-2011, 06:37 PM | #1 |
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For those with track brake pads...
Do they fit as snugly as the OEM pads did up front? My Hawk HP+ have a few mm of play in them on the fronts. Looking at them, they exactly match the OEM pad size *without* the thin metal "shim" mounted on it. Since the metal shim wraps around the sides of the pad backing plate, it adds to the size and results in the snug fit of the OEM pads. But I was told I'm not supposed to use these shims with the Hawk pads by their representative... however, I'm not totally convinced he's not just generalizing based upon most setups in which the shim doesn't wrap around the sides of the backing plate.
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07-14-2011, 07:55 PM | #2 |
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You're fine without the shims.
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07-14-2011, 09:55 PM | #4 |
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So what about any of the other track pads besides Hawks, do they fit more snugly? I realize some say the backing plates of track pads are undersized a bit to allow for thermal expansion, but this seems a bit much to me especially for a light duty track pad, although I'm not a brake expert.
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07-15-2011, 06:29 AM | #5 |
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Don't they stay in place after moving one direction anyways? If you go forward then reverse I can see how they will knock inside the caliper, but I think after that initial faint knock that would be all. I am no brake expert either, but shims certainly serve a purpose so I wouldn't just accept his word as the end all be all.
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07-15-2011, 08:25 AM | #6 |
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FYI for future purchase considerations...cool carbon pads come with new backing plates that can be transferred to other pads easily....
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07-15-2011, 10:51 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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07-15-2011, 10:52 AM | #8 |
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Thanks, good to know, although my OEM shims finally broke free of the pad backing plate after a track day of putting good heat to them.
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07-17-2011, 12:45 AM | #9 | |
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We have found most Hawk front pads are okay to use without the oem shims, but some of the early production rear pads must be used with the oem shims or you get a really bad pad rattle. |
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07-18-2011, 08:48 AM | #10 |
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Harold, do you have brake ducting done? I would not suggest using no backing plates on these cars, period. It was a very costly mistake on my part, not doing so.
If you have additional cooling, then it's possible that you can probably reduce the risk of destroying the ceramic pistons, but I did not have additional cooling, and did destroy the pistons... both front and rear. I assume the rear is due to the eLSD function, where the pads hammer the rotor, when the car is going very fast. At Watkins Glen, you are going 140mph+, heading into the Bus Stop, and that's where I felt the brake pedal pop towards the floor, as the individual pistons were crushing (powderizing)... NOT a fun feeling at 140mph... |
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07-18-2011, 05:40 PM | #11 |
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Larryn, your brake padal went to the floor at the end of WGI backsraight? My guess is you took a short cut and went straight. By the way after rebuilding my front calipers with the stop tech kit that you suggested i tested them at Pocono yesterday and happy to report that the result is great. After hammering the brake pedal from over 145 mph at the end of the backsraight and over 135 mph at the end of the frontstraight lap after lap after lap in 90F heat, the brake pedal was nice and firm, very consistent with no hints of fading. I should add that i run dtc70 pads front, dtc 60 rear, srf break fluid, titanium shims and power slot rotors.I really think that there is no need for BBK for occasional lapping if you run similar set up.
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