Upgrading from first car to a 1 series

[SteelersWVU]

I am looking to get a new car and interested in the 128i. I am a recent college graduate and currently drive a 2000 honda civic 2 door EX.

I am looking to spend between 30-33k. That would put me about $500 dollar payments at about 5.4% over 60 months. I need to find out information regarding this interest rate considering I've paid off all my school loans I should have a pretty good credit score. This will put me at about 18% of my salary. I know there will be other associated cost such as insurance and maintenance. If you guys have any recommendations the financials let me know.

Do you guys recommend used or new for my price range?

I am looking to own this car for about 5 years. How do these cars hold up? Is there a lot of maintenance cost associated?

Any idea on what the insurance payments would be like for someone with a clean driving record at the age of 24? Or where I could find this? I am currently still on my parents insurance given that I just graduated from college.

How is the 128i in the snow? I've only driven FWD. With snow tires will I be alright to drive around a city/suburbs like Pittsburgh?

I've been looking at used 2009-2011 used 128i on auto trader. Is there a big difference between these models?

This is actually one that I spotted out on auto trader if you guys want to take a look: 2009 Used with 10k miles

Would you say this is a good price? How much can you usually negotiate price with BMWs? Or between new/used?


Other Cars I am looking at include: Lexus IS250 and maybe the 2012 ford focus titanium.


Thanks for the help.

[MarkR171]

Insurance won't be too bad provided you have a clean record and a college graduate, I'm 23 myself.

I don't have snow experience, it doesn't snow in Honolulu , but I do know people have snow tires on their 1s and do just fine in the snow.

For 30-33k, you should be able to find a nice CPO 135i, any reason why you're looking for a 128 specifically? At 30-33k, very slightly used is the way to go. That's pretty much base price + limited options on a 128. Go back 1 or 2 model years and you can get a well equipped 128 or 135 with a bit more miles.

[SteelersWVU]

Originally Posted by MarkR171

Insurance won't be too bad provided you have a clean record and a college graduate, I'm 23 myself.

I don't have snow experience, it doesn't snow in Honolulu , but I do know people have snow tires on their 1s and do just fine in the snow.

For 30-33k, you should be able to find a nice CPO 135i, any reason why you're looking for a 128 specifically? At 30-33k, very slightly used is the way to go. That's pretty much base price + limited options on a 128. Go back 1 or 2 model years and you can get a well equipped 128 or 135 with a bit more miles.

I was worried the 135i would be a lot higher on the insurance then the 128i. Plus I heard the 135i have some problems? Any truth to that?

[MarkR171]

Fuel pump would be the only problem. They seem to have come out with a fix, I haven't been hearing much about the issue. It also seems to happen on some specific cars more than others. I know people with 50k+ miles and never had an issue and some people with 15k miles on their 3rd pump. BMW did a recall on the pumps and extended the warranty on them to 100k miles. As long as you get a car that doesn't have a history if it, you should be OK, I think.

Insurance isn't much more if at all.

[Taymaishu]

Some advice I gave to another person asking much the same questions as you - I learned this lesson and managed to scrape by..just.

Don't think of your best possible situation. Think of what would happen if you lost your job and were out of work. You need to ask yourself the following questions:

Do you have any lease protection insurance?
Do you have savings that will see you through (rent, food, any credit card repayments, lease repayments)?
How long can you get through with all of those and no income?
What are your options if you move interstate?
What is your plan at the end of the lease? Sell, keep or roll?
Are you able to payout the lease if you get a job offer overseas?

You really need to drill down and see if you can survive in the worst possible scenario. I was lucky that I took out lease protection insurance and was made redundant. I didn't pay for my car for the first 6 months, and I was out of work another 6 months after that.

You have to be really honest with yourself. Yes, 18% of income is pretty damn good (man you guys get great pricing over there!).

I know it sounds like i'm preaching, but budget ahead. Make sure you're saving and saving and have enough to survive for 12 months without work at all times. Keep the kitty away earning interest. You never know when you'll need it. It'll keep your head above water and your credit score up if the worst is to happen.

Sorry for the rant, but I want people to be completely prepared when they go into a long term lease. 5 years is a long time to lease! Make sure you're safe and always prepared for anything. I learned this the semi-hard way but because I was prepared, I got by and still have my car now, and a damn good job.

Hope this helped

BTW - 128i is an awesome choice for first car. We're the same age and I save HEAPS on insurance compared to the 135i and it's a fun car

[MarkR171]

^ Looks like he's buying, not leasing.

[moveswiftly]

2008-2009 ish CPO 135i with low miles. As far as insurance is concerned, the insurance for me in a Honda accord v6 was more expensive with geico compared to my 135i... odd.
Either ways there's not that much of a difference in insurance between 128 and 135i.

[Xyloft]

i got my 128i with sport, leather and heated seats for 32,000ish. if you're set on a 128 and are picky with yoru options i think you could get new.

but a 135i with low miles and CPO would also fit in yoru price range. just a thought.

[SteelersWVU]

Forgot to mention I am probably going to make a down payment between 5-8 k.. and will be trading in my car for about 1.5-2k hopefully which I included in my price range


I was looking at BMWs site and dealership sites? Sorry I am completely clueless when it comes to car buying. Looks like when I customized some options on the website it was cheaper then buying new from a dealer near my house?? And when you customize/buy one online how does that work?

Also, is it worth just going to a dealership by my house and just test driving one even if its new and I end up buying a used one? I really want to test drive one bad.. I drive around my parents mercedes c350 sometimes and I love it.

[alexckma]

5.4% seems pretty high... are you financing the car?

[alexckma]

and I'd say get a new one, with the LCI and all, no reason to go for a used one... always go for the new thing is my approach unless and until you have so much money to burn you can afford to buy old cars just as a collectible

I for example have an e36 m3 (not even licensed anymore) and an e46 330Ci M Sport (not licensed) and a W203 C32 AMG (not licensed)

[SteelersWVU]

Originally Posted by alexckma

5.4% seems pretty high... are you financing the car?

Yes, it was just a generic average I found online. I think I can get it lower.

[mosx]

I wouldn't worry about insurance, it will drop significantly when you hit 25. Get a Certified 135i instead of the 128i!

The US BMW site has a section to search for CPO cars on dealers lots. Autotrader.com has a checkbox for "certified cars only" when searching as well. I think Cars.com also has that option. Ebay motors is also a good place to find CPO cars, as well as each independent dealers website in your area.

[alexckma]

I have seen lower rates down to around 3 percent.

But anyway, if you are set on the 1 series, get the 128i LCI

why not 135? Because of reliability
is it a big issue? Depends on your luck
But there is warranty isn't there? Yes there is, and a lifetime guarantee that you may from time to time be stuck at the side of the road
but that's fine, I can always get a loaner can't I? Yes you can, but people actually like to GO places in their own cars not through loaners.

There are many 135, or rather the _35 enthusiasts on the board. Some of them found HPFP to be a non-issue, and some of them find it to be an issue.

But either way, you need to find out whether you want to risk reliability for power. The money is yours, and the possible headache is yours as well (either for the LACK of the twin turbo goodness, or the PRESENCE of hpfp issue) bear in mind, this issue does not plague everyone.

[SteelersWVU]

Originally Posted by alexckma

I have seen lower rates down to around 3 percent.

But anyway, if you are set on the 1 series, get the 128i LCI

why not 135? Because of reliability
is it a big issue? Depends on your luck
But there is warranty isn't there? Yes there is, and a lifetime guarantee that you may from time to time be stuck at the side of the road
but that's fine, I can always get a loaner can't I? Yes you can, but people actually like to GO places in their own cars not through loaners.

There are many 135, or rather the _35 enthusiasts on the board. Some of them found HPFP to be a non-issue, and some of them find it to be an issue.

But either way, you need to find out whether you want to risk reliability for power. The money is yours, and the possible headache is yours as well (either for the LACK of the twin turbo goodness, or the PRESENCE of hpfp issue) bear in mind, this issue does not plague everyone.

Just looked at my credit score its 751. So I am assuming I can get pretty good financing.

What would you say the % of 135is have this problem? And which years??

[alexckma]

i dont think there is a stated percentage, it's a hit or miss kinda thing. Some people have the problem early on, some people late. Some has recurring problems, some don't. It's very hard to gauge. But as to the years... it's all the years that has been out so far....

[SteelersWVU]

alex 128 lci? is that the 2012?

[Spoetzl]

If you're worried about the HPFP and you wan't a 135 take a look at the 2011 and 2012. They have the n55 and with the limited data it looks as if these years don't have the issues.

[SteelersWVU]

Originally Posted by Spoetzl

If you're worried about the HPFP and you wan't a 135 take a look at the 2011 and 2012. They have the n55 and with the limited data it looks as if these years don't have the issues.

2011 135i

Or 2012 128i brand new with msports package? for around 35 I am getting from BMWs website.

[Spoetzl]

I paid $36.2k for my 2011 135 in November. But she only has leather, and the M sports package. I think MSRP was around $39k. I was going to get 128 with the sport package and 6mt but after driving the 135 I had to have it.

[alexckma]

bro, in all honesty, I am conservative, I spend my money with the view that it must be spent on a reliable product hence my genuine disagreement with bmw's approach to the n54 and n55 engines. THere are documented cases where even the n55 fails.

The only 35 that seems to have better liability would be the 335d.. but your budget wont allow for this.

As well, yes 2012 LCI.. hence new.

128i 2012, try to get a few options in, xenons are a must everything else is not really required in my opinion. Skirts and bumpers and the m sport package can be added after market.

[GO135i007]

If you like performance then there is no need to even debate between the 128 and 135. 135 hands down.