NEED HELP: Turbo and clutch install

[Baileythebimmer]

New thread problem different then first assumed

[i_love_cars]

it is unlikely the clutch install has anything to do with the conditions you are experiencing. Much more likely having to do with the turbo.

How far did you go with re-installing everything? When you change the turbo(s) on these cars you should always leave the subframe off when you start the car to verify it all idles normally and isn't running like dog shit in neutral at idle speed. That way you can get in and fix things if necessary.

There are several possibilities, hard to say from here. Some options would be as follows:

Verify you do not have significant leaks around the intake, inlet pipe, and hot side intercooler pipe. Also verify that the vac line for the wastegate actuator is attached on both ends.

Verify your boost solenoid is properly connected - this typically gets disconnected/moved during turbo install in order to remove the heat shield.

When I did my turbo, there were any grounds that I disconnected other than the battery and one that bolts to the engine block near the water pump/tstat.

Attach a code reader like Cobb and verify there are not other codes also being thrown - i say this just because when I hear about idle being shaky with low boost codes and misfires after a turbo install, one of my first thoughts is air leaks.

[Baileythebimmer]

Thank you for the prompt and thorough reply. It is all the way pit back together ready to drive off. However the funny thing would be is I did start the car on the lift and put it in gear on the lift to make sure driveshaft and gears and everything engaged ok, car ran smooth then. From that point on, I detached the negative again, installed outlet intercooler pipe to turbos outlet, installed intercooler, ran boost lines, installed inlets, and connected back charge pipe. Left off steering rack to check for leaks. Connected negative again start up, car running terribly this time after blipping throttle. Multiple startups and code clears still same issue. After about 4th startup car starting weak as if battery dead. Just a little more detail on that as you say it has something with air leaks. Mind you car has not left lift so this is not even drive a little and car start running bad this is immediate. Had to leave the car on lift Saturday and will be back tommorow to finish her up and gathering ideas on what it could be so I finish quickly as possible tomorow (charged by the hour)

[Baileythebimmer]

I'd like to mention this is my second turbo install myself on this car, 5 swaps in total between me and my friends so I'm no stranger to this install but something went wrong this time, it happens.

On to your suggestions:

First suggestion will have to do, in my mind there was no way it was any of these at the time but I was so spent it makes more sense now.

Second is done, solenoid is connected and boost hoses attached although I must check integrity of hoses now that I think it could be pinched.

Third- that's exactly my thought! I have negative on and tstat ground was actually very loose when checked but after tightening down, symptoms persisted

4th codes were read through jb4 were consistent mostly but varied between low boost mode engaged staying constant, misfire cyl 5 coming and going, outlet vanos variable cam control tests mechanics coming and going and 2A7A coming and going

Thanks again my friend and share any other thoughts you may have!

[Baileythebimmer]

Originally Posted by i_love_cars

it is unlikely the clutch install has anything to do with the conditions you are experiencing. Much more likely having to do with the turbo.

How far did you go with re-installing everything? When you change the turbo(s) on these cars you should always leave the subframe off when you start the car to verify it all idles normally and isn't running like dog shit in neutral at idle speed. That way you can get in and fix things if necessary.

There are several possibilities, hard to say from here. Some options would be as follows:

Verify you do not have significant leaks around the intake, inlet pipe, and hot side intercooler pipe. Also verify that the vac line for the wastegate actuator is attached on both ends.

Verify your boost solenoid is properly connected - this typically gets disconnected/moved during turbo install in order to remove the heat shield.

When I did my turbo, there were any grounds that I disconnected other than the battery and one that bolts to the engine block near the water pump/tstat.

Attach a code reader like Cobb and verify there are not other codes also being thrown - i say this just because when I hear about idle being shaky with low boost codes and misfires after a turbo install, one of my first thoughts is air leaks.

Well written thank you