Still trying to learn this car

[Chris.]

90k miles.....any maintenance records? Spark plugs should be changed every 20k miles. Walnut blasting would be a good course of action.

Oh and lose the sue happy mentality, regardless of being an attorney The dealership represents the car to the best of their knowledge. It's your fault for not being diligent pre-sale. A Carfax is only good if the accident is reported to insurance companies.

A little more research about this car on your end would alleviate most of your worries.

[Davyhay]

I am actually going back to the track tonight. Since last time, I have changed plugs. The car also has about 3 gallons of fuel in it, compared to about 8 gallons last time. I will also pump in a gallon of E85 to compensate for the hot humid temps. All this along with shifting around 5800, I hope to get into the 13's. I will report the findings.

[1descending]

I was under the impression that you want to be shifting at redline in 1st and 2nd for the best drag time.

Also the turbos are pretty quiet but you should be able to hear them on a stock car if you rev to 6500 rpm and take your foot completely off the gas. If the car wasn't holding boost you would have other much more obvious signs than lack of turbo noise

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by 1descending

I was under the impression that you want to be shifting at redline in 1st and 2nd for the best drag time.

Also the turbos are pretty quiet but you should be able to hear them on a stock car if you rev to 6500 rpm and take your foot completely off the gas. If the car wasn't holding boost you would have other much more obvious signs than lack of turbo noise

If you're 6AT then forget 1st gear, it's just tire smoke. 6MT obviously is different.

No reason to hold it until redline, the boost tapers so aggressively for 99% of us, there's not much power to be had. 6K is the proper shift point from my experience.

[Davyhay]

Originally Posted by Chris.

90k miles.....any maintenance records? Spark plugs should be changed every 20k miles. Walnut blasting would be a good course of action.

Oh and lose the sue happy mentality, regardless of being an attorney The dealership represents the car to the best of their knowledge. It's your fault for not being diligent pre-sale. A Carfax is only good if the accident is reported to insurance companies.

A little more research about this car on your end would alleviate most of your worries.

As an officer of the court, I despise frivolous litigation. However, I feel there may have been a breach of duty to investigate the vehicle. Yes, the carfax came back clear. However, I knew the hood had been resprayed and I was told it was because of rock chips and that the car had never been wrecked. I have since found a couple indicators. I am taking the car to a friend who owns a body shop this weekend to have him check it out. The issue is that the car was represented to be sold for a certain price and be of a certain value. If the value is impeded by their malfeasance, I need to seek some sort of redress.

Yes, I have the maintenance records from BMW. If the plugs were changed last at BMW, it was at 45K. This could well make a decent difference.

Once a recover from the water pump I just replaced, I will get the walnut blasting done.

[Davyhay]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

If you're 6AT then forget 1st gear, it's just tire smoke. 6MT obviously is different.

No reason to hold it until redline, the boost tapers so aggressively for 99% of us, there's not much power to be had. 6K is the proper shift point from my experience.

See, that's the other thing--my car won't spin a tire to save its life.

[Davyhay]

After another night at the track with a couple adjustments and I did the following:
Best 60' 2.1
Best 1/4 mile 13.95
Best MPH 102.3

Oddly enough, by quickest ET was with a 98mph trap.

[NORAGRETS]

youll hear it with a CAI as well...but DP and CAI will make you happy

[Davyhay]

I'm not really wanting to hear it, per se--just wondering if I should.

[3IDRANGER]

Oh my god I'm confused...so the car HAS been wrecked counselor or you THINK the car has been wrecked? How about we figure that out before we go half cocked on some type of sue the world tirade. That could be a huge factor on why your car sucks right now, especially if some half rate or even less than half rate shop stuck it back together. Hit in the front, engine damage and a shop that buys parts off Ebay to fix it....big problem. Truly a re-spray hood from rock chips and never hit, then a the problem shifts to items such as possibly one or more bad turbo, catalytic convertor or convertors clogged or damaged. Maybe the car at some point scattered a turbo and took out a cat. They half assed the job and replaced a turbo or turbos and didn't address that cats being fucked. It's happened to people that have brought cars into our shop and we get boost reading that are normal or a little low and she just can't get out of her way. Well you think you would get a engine fault code or something...not if it's been turned off. Cobb tuning software will allow you to turn off the light...ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES right now. And on a stock 135, you will hear turbo spool with everything stock if you roll the windows down, drive along side a concrete sound wall, windows down, sun roof closed, shift into a low gear like second or third, obviously depending on speed and romp on it. You'll hear them spool

[3IDRANGER]

I'm typed out...good night.

[Davyhay]

I know the car has been wrecked, I just don't know at this point how extensive the damage was/is.

I have the BMW service history and there is no indication of turbos being replaced.

[dorkdog]

Originally Posted by Davyhay

Oh I love the car, and from what I have read, the powertrain is about as bullet-proof as they come. But yes, it does such that some of the peripherals were not more though out.

I'm in the dark about all this walnut blastin g stuff and fail to understand why it should be necessary to do this to an engine that should last hundreds of thousands of miles. Why do people continue to buy cars that are in effect programmed to fail far before their time? Even when kept stock?

Money to burn? Not me...

[Davyhay]

Originally Posted by dorkdog

I'm in the dark about all this walnut blastin g stuff and fail to understand why it should be necessary to do this to an engine that should last hundreds of thousands of miles. Why do people continue to buy cars that are in effect programmed to fail far before their time? Even when kept stock?

Money to burn? Not me...

Apparently this is a result of direct injection. When fuel is injected into the intake runners, it keeps the valves clean. However, in a direct injection engine, fuel is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber, meaning the oil from the intake creates carbon buildup around the valves.

I agree--it really seems that these cars are built to last a long time, but with a very hefty cost of upkeep. I don't like thinking that BMW did this on purpose, but if they did not, it sure is serving to line their pockets.

[Pablo.]

Why don't you just throw it on a dyno

That should give you a better representation of how much power your car is making as opposed to an ET

[Davyhay]

I whole-heartedly agree. Unfortunately in the whole city of Montgomery, Alabama, there is apparently not one dyno. I am extremely busy and it is fairly impractical to drive two hours to Birmingham.

[Reapur]

I feel like this forum is a Whiny bunch.

"Omg what? I have to service and maintain my car? And I have to pay money to do it?! What the hell?!"

Learn how to wrench and save on labor. Not to mention its fun as hell. Or keep going to the dealer of you don't have time. I mean you're a lawyer, you can def afford to.

[Vigilante375]

A dyno would be able to help on seeing what the caris putting down and what the AFR is to see if it's running lean or rich. But if your closest one is 2 hours away then you're going to have to make a time to go there.

Your 102 mph is what I ran in my stock '12 135i 6spd a few months back, though I ditched the factory run flats and picked up some better non-runflats then went up 1 size on the front and rears. Either way, my fastest ET was 13.5 but was running between 13.7-13.8 consistently and our drag strip is a NHRA sanctioned one but is known to be a little slower than most tracks. Stock our cars should be in the 13.3-13.7 range with a good to average driver.

I do all the basic maintenance on my car until it comes to the trans, digging into the engine or something like that is time consuming or is covered under warranty. I'll do pretty much anything else my self.

But there are tests you can always have BMW run to see what the car is doing and performing then if they find something they'll let you know. It has to be that the car is being held back by something.......only way to tell is tearing into it and throwing it on a dyno. If you can't light up first gear there is something going on of course.

[Davyhay]

Originally Posted by Reapur

I feel like this forum is a Whiny bunch.

"Omg what? I have to service and maintain my car? And I have to pay money to do it?! What the hell?!"

Learn how to wrench and save on labor. Not to mention its fun as hell. Or keep going to the dealer of you don't have time. I mean you're a lawyer, you can def afford to.

I am an extremely proficient DIY'er. However, when your car breaks down and you need it back as soon possible, there is no time to order a part, wait for it to arrive, then make time to install it.

[New21er]

I would take a 2hr. drive to a dyno. Seems the fastest way to answer your questions.

[Fifty3bags]

I think this place has a dyno in Montgomery. I saw dyno sheets on their fb page. I'd give them a call and see what they say. There's a dyno here in Dothan, but that's also a 1.5-2hr drive for you.

http://go-autoworks.com/home

[Davyhay]

Thanks!! The only place I found is shut down.