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09-02-2011, 07:16 AM | #45 | |
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Ken's prices probably can't be beat given his expertise. In other words, you will save money going to him because he will sell you what you need, for your car, no more no less and it will integrate perfectly (I understand he is now using OEM connectors!). While he may not beat the lowest internet price on an individual piece, the total package will be a much better deal. |
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09-02-2011, 10:33 AM | #46 | |
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09-02-2011, 11:12 AM | #47 |
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Sure, in extreme cases, the speaker will move *and* *stay* in or out. Voice coil cooling will cease. Over time irreparable damage will occur due to heat.
But it will likely sound bad long before permanent damage is done, so one can back off the volume. |
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09-30-2011, 04:52 AM | #48 |
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Incorrect. The SIGNAL will stop but because of the suspension on the speaker it will be incapable of making that stop. The only exception is when a speaker sees DC. In ANY other case the speaker will continue to move. The ONLY 2 things that break speakers are overpowering and exceeding the speaker's physical limits (overexcursion).
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09-30-2011, 04:54 AM | #49 | |
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There is NO DC component to a clipped signal. None at all. werewolf/lycan on DIYMA has a great thread with the science-y links. |
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10-02-2011, 04:47 PM | #50 | |
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Drives: 2010 135i,1989 PRO3,2001 530i
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10-13-2011, 02:17 AM | #51 | |
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As someone else suggested, I would do the installation in stages if I didn't have enough money to get it professionally installed all at once. Maybe do the speakers this year and the amp next year. |
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10-14-2011, 03:57 PM | #52 | |
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If the amp is too big, then you might melt it without hearing it sound bad. Tearing something in two? That's going to be audible before it happens, probably. There are a lot of Pe ratings on inexpensive coaxials which are outright lies, and people have come up with stories to explain why those speakers' voice coils melt with less than their rated power. The actual story is, the box copy lies. |
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