Reliability / longevity of the 128i 6spd manual

[matmanx1]

I believe it is the Getrag unit 217, right? I've not heard that these are a weak point in our cars but I thought I might ask here to see if anyone has seen or heard differently.

Obviously if you abuse the tranny or clutch then those would be prone to failure from wear but otherwise these should be fairly robust units. Am I right?

[Wakka]

I saw a thread the other day with some guy that had like 160k on his odometer. Take care of the car and the car will take care of you.

[Xyloft]

i'm at 105,000 miles. I have done a few autoX's, but overall it still seems fine (original clutch as well).

I do have a "sometimes" clunk that appears to be in the driveline somewhere, but I haven't been able to reproduce it for a shop to see if it's transmission related or something else.

[mechavore884]

I've been on summit quite a few times along with Auto-Xing quiiiiiiiiite frequently 0 issues

only thing done was a tranny flush at 75k and cdv delete (original clutch), these things are pretty bullet proof really. However the 1 thing i noticed (and its a common bmw issue )a bit tough intermittently going into 1st but thats like once every blue moon

[TheSt|G]

With regular fluid changes the trans should last effectively forever. Clutch should be good for 100k-300k depending on how your stick driving is.

[Dafttt]

Originally Posted by mechavore884

I've been on summit quite a few times along with Auto-Xing quiiiiiiiiite frequently 0 issues

only thing done was a tranny flush at 75k and cdv delete (original clutch), these things are pretty bullet proof really. However the 1 thing i noticed (and its a common bmw issue )a bit tough intermittently going into 1st but thats like once every blue moon

I get that tough 1st gear shift every once in a while too. Shifting down to 2nd then straight up to 1st always works.

I hope you're flushing that tranny every two years, not every 75k!

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by Dafttt

I get that tough 1st gear shift every once in a while too. Shifting down to 2nd then straight up to 1st always works.

I learned that move when I learned how to drive a stick... Works every time.

[mechavore884]

Dafttt LOL it was one of the first things I did when I got the vehicle (granted I need to get of my behind and do the diff as well), but certainly the flush made the world of a difference..

I could be 130% wrong (so please excuse my ignorance on this) but I was under the assumption that ZF made our transmissions

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by mechavore884

I could be 130% wrong (so please excuse my ignorance on this) but I was under the assumption that ZF made our transmissions

I think all of the manual trannies are Getrag units and the automatics are either ZF or GM(!).

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Xyloft

i'm at 105,000 miles. I have done a few autoX's, but overall it still seems fine (original clutch as well).

I do have a "sometimes" clunk that appears to be in the driveline somewhere, but I haven't been able to reproduce it for a shop to see if it's transmission related or something else.

Ive driven in an E46 that did this, my brother's 335 does this, and so does my 128i. I think it may just be a BMW thing? Definitely not just specific to our model transmission

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by chris82

Ive driven in an E46 that did this, my brother's 335 does this, and so does my 128i. I think it may just be a BMW thing? Definitely not just specific to our model transmission

Yup, my E36 M3 did it as did my E39 M5. Just seems to be a stick BMW thing.

[JimD]

I think difficulty with first is a manual transmission thing, not a BMW thing. My Suzuki SUV is much worse at this than my bimmer. Moving to neutral, letting the clutch out, and then going back to first generally solves it. I attribute it to minimal synchros for first gear.

[Blacksport]

Originally Posted by JimD

I attribute it to minimal synchros for first gear.

That problem has nothing to do with the 1st gear synchro, nor Getrag, nor BMW.

When you shift, you're not moving the gear, you're locking it on to the output shaft by sliding a lock ring over the gear. This ring has inner nubs on it that match the outer nubs on the gear. There's also an angled "male" cone on the gear, and a matching "female" cone on the lock ring...that's the synchro that speeds the gear to match the output shaft's speed. It works very well....in 2nd to 6th gear. The problem with first gear is that the output shaft is stopped...so occasionally when you select 1st gear, the inner (lock ring) and outer (gear) nubs bump each other and you can't lock 1st gear...a little "neutral-clutch out-back to 1st" will move the lock ring nubs to a different position.

One other point about the 1st gear synchro: it has the toughest job because of the large size of the 1st gear. You want it to last? Baby it...don't force it...when you put the clutch in an a light, give the clutch disc & input shaft a few seconds to stop, rather than forcing them to stop with the synchro...and avoid going to 2nd when 1st won't engage...all that does is wear out the 2nd gear synchro.

[Olgeezer1]

Thanks Blacksport. Good info.

[Pkaia524]

161,500 miles on original clutch. Gear box fluid changes every 30,000 miles with Red Line MTL.

gear box feels the same as the day i bought the car (w/35,000 miles on the odo). But I'm on the extreme end of taking care of the gear box. Here are some examples.

1) I always warm up the car for 30-45sec, no matter the outside temp.
2) i always start slowly, never rev the car over 2500 rpm until the oil sensor registers.
3) when i write "slowly", i mean, for example, in temps below 40 i will take a quarter of a block to reach 15mph , and then gently shift into 2nd. if i feel any resistance i will slow, then try 2nd again in 5 sec or so. if there is still resistance i will go back into 1st and repeat the cycle. i never force 2nd gear starting out.
4) I never engine brake. i heel and toe downshifts.
5) I usually (90% of the time?) shift into neutral the moment i start braking to stop.
6) I frequently short shift.
7) In stop and go traffic I think of neutral as a gear, coasting between stop and go moments.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Pkaia524

161,500 miles on original clutch. Gear box fluid changes every 30,000 miles with Red Line MTL.

gear box feels the same as the day i bought the car (w/35,000 miles on the odo). But I'm on the extreme end of taking care of the gear box. Here are some examples.

1) I always warm up the car for 30-45sec, no matter the outside temp.
2) i always start slowly, never rev the car over 2500 rpm until the oil sensor registers.
3) when i write "slowly", i mean, for example, in temps below 40 i will take a quarter of a block to reach 15mph , and then gently shift into 2nd. if i feel any resistance i will slow, then try 2nd again in 5 sec or so. if there is still resistance i will go back into 1st and repeat the cycle. i never force 2nd gear starting out.
4) I never engine brake. i heel and toe downshifts.
5) I usually (90% of the time?) shift into neutral the moment i start braking to stop.
6) I frequently short shift.
7) In stop and go traffic I think of neutral as a gear, coasting between stop and go moments.

You own the wrong car.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

You own the wrong car.

[Pkaia524]

Yes -- my "right" car is my SpecE30.

[Xyloft]

Originally Posted by chris82

Ive driven in an E46 that did this, my brother's 335 does this, and so does my 128i. I think it may just be a BMW thing? Definitely not just specific to our model transmission

yeah. I googled it and there were quite a few posts for 3 series and 5 series.

its the worst in low speed parking lots, like when you are in and out of 1st.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Xyloft

yeah. I googled it and there were quite a few posts for 3 series and 5 series.

its the worst in low speed parking lots, like when you are in and out of 1st.

I've only noticed it once or twice so far in my 128i. It's very subtle. I first heard it after going on a drive down some back roads. It Hasn't happened since though, idk I'm not worried about it

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by mechavore884

Dafttt LOL it was one of the first things I did when I got the vehicle (granted I need to get of my behind and do the diff as well), but certainly the flush made the world of a difference..

I could be 130% wrong (so please excuse my ignorance on this) but I was under the assumption that ZF made our transmissions

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

I think all of the manual trannies are Getrag units and the automatics are either ZF or GM(!).

For BMW's "bread & butter" (128i/328i's) cars, the manuals were Getrag units. For the higher HP cars like the 135i/335i's and M's... they get ZF manuals.

For a 128i auto, they use a GM tranny made in France. For the automatic 135i's they used a ZF six speed. Later on(>2011 135i's) they used a DCT, seven speed made by ZF.

Dackel

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

For BMW's "bread & butter" (128i/328i's) cars, the manuals were Getrag units. For the higher HP cars like the 135i/335i's and M's... they get ZF manuals.

For a 128i auto, they use a GM tranny made in France. For the automatic 135i's they used a ZF six speed. Later on(>2011 135i's) they used a DCT, seven speed made by ZF.

Dackel

The GM plant in France was sold to Punch Metals in 2013 and they now make transmissions for ZF (there was a transition period in 2013/2014 as the facility moved from GM product to ZF product).