Charge Pipe: Lousy Design

[hopofthese]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

That's crazy! I don't know why that happens to you guys and not to us non-m guys. I'm sure that we have been running higher boost!?

Perhaps the way the overboost comes on? Too abruptly?

Thats what happens when you beat the sh*t out the car.

[HondaGoneRogue]

I've done tons of laps around the ring, and spa, and our tracks here in Vegas. Never popped once. And I can push it. Gotta be the overboost. There's no way all these people just happen to dog the car so bad it pops off.

[PKumarM3]

ahhh the joys of a turdbro car on the track.

[HondaGoneRogue]

Someone's jelly. ^^

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

I've done tons of laps around the ring, and spa, and our tracks here in Vegas. Never popped once. And I can push it. Gotta be the overboost. There's no way all these people just happen to dog the car so bad it pops off.

Just saw a separate thread where guy took delivery of 1M and charge pipe came off after only a couple days of driving.

I also understand that both popped and broken charge pipes have occurred with the M Performance Center's 1M fleet in Spartanburg.

Neil

[HondaGoneRogue]

I wonder what's so different between the m's and non-m's hardware wise? I'll have to check realoem.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

I wonder what's so different between the m's and non-m's hardware wise? I'll have to check realoem.

It could be in the 1M's software. I bet in all cases the cars were in M mode... sharper throttle response. The throttle plate opens and closes faster than ssay in a 135i or in normal (1M) mode. So when you jump off the throttle at high boost (low to mid rpms with over boost!) the pressure shock wave takes out the weakest link - being the charge pipe. Just a guess though.

[HondaGoneRogue]

Yeah that is the most likely scenario if the hard parts are equal.

[KillrM3]

Has anyone here installed the Active Autowerke charge pipe and BOV?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

Yeah that is the most likely scenario if the hard parts are equal.

Perhaps BMW will fix this mechanical deficiency like they have in the past (x35i's) with a SW update! lol They (BMW) might simply detune these little monsters before it becomes an epidemic problem.

Sir.. your 1M needs a new SW update...

[Dan Parker]

Should we start a poll? Mine seems fine, for now.

So which pipe is considered the best?

[HondaGoneRogue]

I've never heard complaints on any. I think the meth bungs are usually the deciding factor.

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

I've never heard complaints on any. I think the meth bungs are usually the deciding factor.

+1.

Neil

[hopofthese]

what's better 2.5 inch vs 3inch?

[T1T2GRE]

Mine's done with production but not in transport .

How is it attached? I couldn't see well in the photo. I had this problem on my '08 Sky Redline after I had the ECU remapped. It seemed to spool up faster under load and that's when the charge pipe would pop off. Kind of annoying. GM used those lame screwclamps, but the problem went away with some good T-bolts.

[HondaGoneRogue]

I was thinking T-Bolts too, but not sure if it would fit and keep a flush seal with the beveled edge.

[josephvman]

I'm more worried about high-pressure fuel pump issues with the car. I haven't heard any reports yet, but my '07 335i has had more fuel pumps than it has oil changes, and recently started the first sign of another failure (constant turning over and not starting first thing in the morning, often taking 2-3 times to start).

I am going to look into the aftermarket charge pipe offerings though.

[MusclezMarinara]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

I've done tons of laps around the ring, and spa, and our tracks here in Vegas. Never popped once. And I can push it. Gotta be the overboost. There's no way all these people just happen to dog the car so bad it pops off.

anyone think maybe it was just loosened during transport?

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by Motion

Looking at the various designs the AA and ER stands out for the CNC throttle body flange vs the silicone coupler you found in others. AA and ER really delivers more value vs the pipe and two silicone hose solution(cost much less to produce). ER offers a version to be used with the oem DV's so that is a plus for those staying with them.

I don't know how the N54/N55 throttle body inlet flange is like, but if it's smooth with a raised portion(barb), which most likely it is since it does not use any sort of clamps from the factory, a silicone hose type of connection is likely to come off since there is no barb for the hose clamp to keep the hose or clamp from sliding off. You will never find an oem hose or race car plumbing clamping to a smooth fitting, it's always a barb. All those other ones...Stett and Vishnu are cheap and have design flaws in them in my opinion and may pop off just as easily as the oem if not easier.

It doesn't have a barb, but a groove into which the large circlip around the factory charge pipe snaps into place.

Neil

[eeghie]

Originally Posted by SamChas

That circlip does not seem up to its task when the pipe expands under high pressure. A (additional) hose clamp should offer improvement.

[TUNEDM3]

My car is currently at the dealer. Dealer called today saying they opened up a puma case and are waiting to here back from the engineers in germany. I am not sure why as it just needs a new charge pipe, but I guess we will see what occurs.

After much research I have decided to go with the ER charge pipe. It clamps to the throttle body using the factory style clamp, comes in a anodized black finish and also allows for the use of the stock diverter valves or aftermarket diverter valves. Alot of the other manufacturers require the use of a bov, which I dont want to use.

[sergeremi]

I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and make this mod to avoid the issue all together?

This is a pretty easy install, right? I figure I'd just go with ER and use the stock diverters. Easy peasy?

Why would using a BOV be worse? I admit, I like the sound of them, but do not want to impede performance, reliability or longevity in any way. If staying with the stock diverter valves with an upgrade charge pipe that won't budge under pressure is the way to go, then I'm down for that.

HP Autowerks have you guys put one in the 1M. Any notes, write ups?