Parasitic drain or need a new battery?

[Josh (PA)]

I've been having an occasional issue with my 1er where if she sits for 2 or 3 days, sometimes it won't be able to start due to low battery voltage/current. I put it on a charger for 10 mins and can get it to start. Once I drive it, it will maintain charge and restart pretty normally. I'm trying to figure out if the issue is a dying battery or parasitic drain from all the electronics.

I found a BMW TSB for all cars except the 1er for excessive drain when the car if off. I'd expect the 1 has the same drain issues but they didn't want to extend our battery replacement. Have others had a lot of issues with dead batteries? Is it something where I should replace my current battery and the issue will go away? If i replace my battery, do I need a trip to the dealer for recoding?

2011 N55 135 vert - 36,000 miles

Thanks...

Nature of Defect:
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:BATTERY
Bulletin Number:
SIB-61-13-05
Bulletin Date:
Mar 2013
Summary:
BMW: BATTERY HAS AN INCREASED DEMAND DUE TO DEVELOPEMENTAL PROCESS OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THIS IS CAUSING THE BATTER TO NEED TO UNDERGO AN ENERGY DIAGNOSIS. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10052012 )

[bmw1racer]

When I had my battery fiasco with the dealer, the service advisor told me that I didn't drive my car enough to keep the battery charged and that if I didn't lock my car after walking away from it (like in my garage) that the battery would slowly get drained of it's charge... Apparently if I left the car unlocked, the car is anticipating that I'm going to start it again, so the electrical systems are primed.

[JimD]

My e88 has set for several weeks before (during a home remodel blocking the garage it was in) and it started up just fine. It sits for a week more often. I have never had to put it on the charger. I don't have comfort access, I've seen some reports it might be an issue. My wife drives her e88 more and her's is 4 years newer but we haven't had to charge it either.

If you are worried about parasitic drain, it isn't hard to test. You need a multi-meter that measures current. I got one at Walmart for about $30. You pull a battery cable and put the multi meter in series with the battery (one lead of the meter to the battery, the other to the cable). Touch it briefly at first in case the flow is large. If you see a high number, start pulling fuses, one at a time, until you find the circuit with the issue. Then you have to figure out what on that circuit is causing the drain. Not simple but not impossible either.

[Eyeman]

I've had battery issues because I use a lightweight battery. When my lightweight is getting closer to needing replacement I'll get the "car on lift/take in for repair" symbol when I crank it. Then finally it won't crank. I can charge it a few times but soon after that it will completely go.

If you issue occurs occasionally but is not occurring more and more frequently then I doubt your battery is about gone.

[brocklanders]

I've had this issue with a 2000 528 years ago, but I put an aftermarket battery in it that wasn't powerful enough. Since then I've had three newer models that have sat for weeks and no issues. If your battery is original it may just be time to replace it, it is four years old, that's about what I've been getting out of them.

[Stock4Evr]

I had a drainage problem with my 2012 135i. They gave me the lame excuse about not driving enough. I drove, at least, 100 miles a week. I now keep a battery charger connected when in the garage.

[RoundelM3]

My wife's 2011 128i convertible had its battery drop dead right about at the 3-year mark. Tow truck couldn't even jump it, so it was towed to the dealership where the battery was replaced/coded (at no cost, even for the tow) and it ran even better than before and continues to do so. I've had batteries last nearly 5 years in other BMWs, but with all the extra electrics (especially the convertible top mechanism), plus the extreme TX heat (we lived there previously), it was no suprise that it only lasted 3 years.

[MotoWPK]

My '13 128i has sat for about 3 weeks on more than one occasion and there has never been any indication of low charge or starting capability. This and my experience with numerous other vehicles over almost 50 years tells me the 'you don't drive it enough' excuse is bunk.

I've also heard of a difference in the condition of the vehicle electronics between the vehicle being locked or unlocked, the latter condition being the most completely deactivated, though never completely off since there is a clock running and the receiver for the comfort access.

While something could be going on with the OP's 135 that has increased the battery drain when parked, and another post has described how to diagnose this, it's most likely the battery has simply reached the end of its life. It's my impression that 4 years is on the short side of the expected battery life, but not out of range of what's normal. Having the battery load tested may also provide conclusive evidence if this is the case (a large drop in voltage under load would indicate an internal fault and, if that is the case, replacement of the battery is needed right away as it could die completely at any time).

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by SocHermit(2)

I had a drainage problem with my 2012 135i. They gave me the lame excuse about not driving enough. I drove, at least, 100 miles a week. I now keep a battery charger connected when in the garage.

Same here with my 2012 128i.

Originally Posted by roundel335

My wife's 2011 128i convertible had its battery drop dead right about at the 3-year mark. Tow truck couldn't even jump it, so it was towed to the dealership where the battery was replaced/coded (at no cost, even for the tow)

That is amazing... The dealer stuck it to me for $636 to have it replaced.

After I submitted my complaint to the local news station who promptly called BMWNA, I received a "Goodwill" check reimbursing me for the full amount.

Originally Posted by MotoWPK

the 'you don't drive it enough' excuse is bunk.

Yup, total bunk.

[Josh (PA)]

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

When I had my battery fiasco with the dealer, the service advisor told me that I didn't drive my car enough to keep the battery charged and that if I didn't lock my car after walking away from it (like in my garage) that the battery would slowly get drained of it's charge... Apparently if I left the car unlocked, the car is anticipating that I'm going to start it again, so the electrical systems are primed.

That's the same story I got from the dealer when i had it in for this issue a couple months ago. Couldn't reproduce, not driving enough, etc. Its a little frustrating that two months later the problem gets worse and now that I'm just outside the new car warranty period I'm out the cost of a battery. To be fair, I do leave my top down and the car unlocked in the garage. Comfort Access may play a role.

Thanks for the responses. Do new batteries all need "coding" at the dealership? What's involved in that (what does the coding do)?

to MotWPK... I wish it had failed at 4yrs or shorter... It's the 4 yrs not quite failed enough, then for years and a month out of warranty that pisses me off.

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by Josh (PA)

Thanks for the responses. Do new batteries all need "coding" at the dealership? What's involved in that (what does the coding do)?

When installing a new battery, it has to be registered so the "smart" (that's a laugh) system knows how to charge it accordingly.

The stealership charged over $350 for the painstaking (extreme sarcasm) task to install and register the battery.

You could do the same with an OBD2 dongle and a USB/WiFi/Bluetooth app for $100 (dongle + app).

[Josh (PA)]

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

When installing a new battery, it has to be registered so the "smart" (that's a laugh) system knows how to charge it accordingly.

The stealership charged over $350 for the painstaking (extreme sarcasm) task to install and register the battery.

You could do the same with an OBD2 dongle and a USB/WiFi/Bluetooth app for $100 (dongle + app).

Thanks. If I install a new battery will it run/charge at sub-optimal levels until I get over to the stearlership, or will it poop the bed if it is not re-initialized immediately.

** This is kind of pathetic that I can't just go to the store, buy a new battery and swap it in.

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by Josh (PA)

Thanks. If I install a new battery will it run/charge at sub-optimal levels until I get over to the stearlership, or will it poop the bed if it is not re-initialized immediately.

That, I don't know.

** This is kind of pathetic that I can't just go to the store, buy a new battery and swap it in.

Yup, I did that with my previous car, an E36... Took all of 15 minutes.

Buy the dongle and get the app... There's lots of other things you can change/adjust with the app.

Here's the dongle/app I plan to get: http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/

[JimD]

If you drive with a new battery prior to registering it, it will be charged like it was an old battery. I doubt that will do any permanent harm as long as it isn't for months. Probably overcharge it a little so you might want to check electrolyte level.