Oil change recommendations after winter storage

rudyv1 · 04-29-2011, 06:29 PM

Car has been in storage for 6 months and was not turned on once during that time.

I purchased the oil and filter from my dealer. I was curious as to which procedure would be best for the engine:

1. Simply Remove oil/filter and replace with new oil, run vehicle (I was told the oil is too thick in this state and not all of it will come out)

or

2. Run vehicle to operating temperature, turn off, replace oil/filter, run vehicle

Thanks for any suggestions
Rudy

Cuz5150 · 04-29-2011, 06:38 PM

Loaded question, but I'll say what i would do.

Car has sat for 6 months? No problem

Pretty much all of the oil has drained in to the pan.
I would just bull the drain plug w/t out starting it. HOWEVER, the oil is gonna be cold, so after you pull the drain plug and remove the oil filter.......Walk away and go grab some lunch. Let it drip dry for a good half hour. Also jack the car from the drivers side. This will tilt the drain hole and would drip dry better....

Here you go: you have my 2cents on this matter

Walt White Coupe · 04-29-2011, 06:39 PM

Synthetic oil does not go bad in 6 months. Just go by normal mileage change or 1 year. That's what I would do. But then, I'm not your normal extreme anal BMW owner.

rudyv1 · 05-01-2011, 11:34 AM

it's due for it's annual oil change anyways

Thanks for the tip to tilt the car on the side a bit! much appreciated

Dackelone · 05-01-2011, 02:56 PM

I think I would change the oil after the engine was fully warmed up. I have never liked changing a car's oil when cold. No matter how long it has been sitting. But that is just me. I would change the oil - even with no real miles on it. Most people who store cars reccomend fresh oil before AND after storing a car. I think the best oil is fresh oil. Does that make me old school?

I think synthetic oil DOES go bad over time. But it takes a few(3+) years for it to go bad. I remember reading about some guy who bought some synthetic oil on same and many years later the oil had sepperated into two parts. After all synthetic oil IS man made. You might try asking these Q's over at "Bob the oil guy"s webiste. I am sure someone has asked these very Q's before.

Turbolader · 05-01-2011, 03:26 PM

The oil may be fine, but it's going to have water in it, which isn't good.

When I used to store my cars, I would run them once ever few weeks because I wanted to:

- Keep oil on the internals so they don't rust (I had cars with cast iron blocks)
- "Bake" out the water in the oil
- keep the charging system up to snuff
- scare any potential critters that thought the exhaust system would make a nice home

In your case: I personally would open the drain plug and let her sit like that for a week. After all, why not? Hotter oil flows better, but there isn't any oil left in the engine, it's all in the pan (Unless the n54 is designed like the Nissan VQ series engine, which likes to keep almost a quart in crevices). Letting it drain out for a long time will make sure you get all of it out.

If you are a real oil geek like me, you will even pour some "wash oil" in and let it get every last drop out. I usually use what ever dino oil is on sale for the wash oil...BMW LL-01 approved oils cost too much to be pouring them down the drain...

If you don't change it...you could treat it like you're first starting an engine...Why? Because there's currently no oil at all in the head. So yank the ignition system and fuel pump fuse (or just the fuel pump fuse) and then attempt to start the car. Do this a few times (Giving the starter time to cool down between attempts). What this will do is spin the engine at a lower-than-idle speed, without any heat, and will prime your oil system, getting the oil to the head. After you do that a few times, pop your fuses back in and start her up and let her run at operating temp long enough to boil off the water thats in the oil. I will include one caviat....I am not very experienced with modern German designed vehicles...More than likely you will definitely get CEL lights, but I am not sure if they will go away when you reinsert the fuses for the ignition system and fuel pump. My point is moot if you have a service tool to clear them though

As far as "is the oil still good" -- well even if you bake out the water, the water that was there, along with the small amount of fuel dilution that occurs naturally just from shutting off the car, the oil's going to likely be somewhat acidic. I personally think that is why most manufacturers tell you to change your oil at a mileage OR date increment. If my fading memory serves me right, most manufacturers state to change it at 6 months regardless if you've hit the miles or not.

Hope this helps!

rudyv1 · 05-01-2011, 04:15 PM

awesome reply!! thank you so all the info Turbolader!

Dackelone · 05-02-2011, 05:00 AM

Turbolader - How can we turn over the engine while not having it start... in order to "prime" the oil system? Each cylinder has a coil pack over the plug. ???

Turbolader · 05-02-2011, 12:59 PM

That's a good question...Never dealt with a Coil-On-Plug (COP) car before, however...

- If you yank the fuse(s) to the PCM, that will kill the coil and fuel injection drivers, however I am not sure about whether or not the starter will even turn over -- some cars need to do the key/PCM handshake for the starter to work, while others only need to do the handshake to fire off the fuel injectors...Further complicating the problem is the starter is now controlled by a button instead of a key...The PCM may be needed to even get to the "start" signal. (If there are any BMW techs in here, I'd be interested in finding this out for sure)

- Slightly more work, you could yank the power leads to each coil.

Like I said the last time though, the PCM is probably going to be pretty upset (unless you kill the power to it, in which case the PCM is sleeping happily), so you may end up with CELs that can only be cleared with a scan tool.

In all reality, the best way to prime the engine, is to pull all the plugs, then put a few drops of oil in each cylinder...then bump the starter a few times (without the plugs in)...this way you have oil to protect the rings immediately, and it makes it easier for the starter since it's no longer fighting compression strokes. (I didn't mention that method because I figured the OP was looking for a quick way to get her heart beating again

)

[edit]
One more thing I forgot to mention: If you do decide to bump the starter without the plugs in there....Make sure you have a clean rag stuffed in the spark plug holes. Reason why is that some of the oil drops will try to come out, and then you'll have a messy valve cover.

Walt White Coupe · 05-02-2011, 02:12 PM

Jeez, just start the damn thing.

Dackelone · 05-02-2011, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walt White Coupe

Jeez, just start the damn thing.

+1. YuP! That is what I would do. Way too much work pulling the plugs and all. But that really is the old school way to do it.

I still say just to run the car up to fully hot temps, then do the oil and filter change. Btw... I hope you put some fuel stabilizer in with the fuel?

rudyv1 · 05-03-2011, 06:39 PM

Fuel stabilizer was used with 94 octane fuel

stevenc · 05-04-2011, 08:36 AM

To me the problem here is not whether the oil is bad or not, its more about how much oil has dripped off friction components. Whether you start the engine with new oil or old oil, the damage at initial start up is done anyway.

Start the car and then change the oil.

Walt White Coupe · 05-04-2011, 10:05 AM

Oil coats all the internal parts of the engine. A thin film exists after years and years of "sitting around." In years past, I've torn apart engines in junk yards that sat out out the open weather for years with mineral oil and I never found one that didn't have oil coating everything internal. Your worries are unfounded.

rudyv1 · 05-05-2011, 06:09 PM

Should I dump in all 7 quarts or only 6.5 ?

Dackelone · 05-05-2011, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rudyv1

Should I dump in all 7 quarts or only 6.5 ?

6.5 quarts or 7.0 Liters with the oil filter

1speedbike · 05-05-2011, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dackelone

6.5 quarts or 7.0 Liters with the oil filter

6.5 liters is the BMW number. Which for US guys is 6.87 US quarts, which BMW just rounds to 6.9. So you buy 7 of the 1-quart oil bottles. A liter is slightly more than a quart, so you just got it backwards

Though i've heard that E9x guys have put as much as 8 quarts in their engines and even that doesn't show full? Even though it's the same engine?

Dackelone · 05-06-2011, 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1speedbike

6.5 liters is the BMW number. Which for US guys is 6.87 US quarts, which BMW just rounds to 6.9. So you buy 7 of the 1-quart oil bottles. A liter is slightly more than a quart, so you just got it backwards

Though i've heard that E9x guys have put as much as 8 quarts in their engines and even that doesn't show full? Even though it's the same engine?

Ohh thanks man. I am always getting that wrong when I post late at night. lol Yes, 6.5 liters.

It is strange that BMW doesn't even list something as simply as how much engine oil to put in our cars! There is no data info in the owners manual. Wierd.

04-29-2011, 06:29 PM	#1
rudyv1 Private First Class 37 Rep 193 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Convertible Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Kitchener ON iTrader: (0)	Oil change recommendations after winter storage Car has been in storage for 6 months and was not turned on once during that time. I purchased the oil and filter from my dealer. I was curious as to which procedure would be best for the engine: 1. Simply Remove oil/filter and replace with new oil, run vehicle (I was told the oil is too thick in this state and not all of it will come out) or 2. Run vehicle to operating temperature, turn off, replace oil/filter, run vehicle Thanks for any suggestions Rudy
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

04-29-2011, 06:38 PM	#2
Cuz5150 Major 217 Rep 1,489 Posts Drives: 06-M3ZHP/04-M3 Vert/02Duc998 Join Date: May 2008 Location: NJ iTrader: (0)	Loaded question, but I'll say what i would do. Car has sat for 6 months? No problem Pretty much all of the oil has drained in to the pan. I would just bull the drain plug w/t out starting it. HOWEVER, the oil is gonna be cold, so after you pull the drain plug and remove the oil filter.......Walk away and go grab some lunch. Let it drip dry for a good half hour. Also jack the car from the drivers side. This will tilt the drain hole and would drip dry better.... Here you go: you have my 2cents on this matter __________________ -Diplomacy is saying, "nice doggie while trying to find a rock"- 07-Z4 coupe-Black/Black/6MT/sport/premium/X 04-M3 vert-Black/Imolla/6MT/Cold/Xenon/HK/ 06-M3 Coupe-Mystic/Black/6MT/ZCP/Xenon/HK/ 09-135i- AW/Bk-Lette/6MT/M-pac/Nav/Hi-Fi/Usb-Ipod/SOLD
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-29-2011, 06:39 PM	#3
Walt White Coupe Captain 225 Rep 742 Posts Drives: 2013 650ix Coupe, 23 C8 Vette Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Phila, PA iTrader: (0)	Synthetic oil does not go bad in 6 months. Just go by normal mileage change or 1 year. That's what I would do. But then, I'm not your normal extreme anal BMW owner.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-01-2011, 11:34 AM	#4
rudyv1 Private First Class 37 Rep 193 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Convertible Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Kitchener ON iTrader: (0)	it's due for it's annual oil change anyways Thanks for the tip to tilt the car on the side a bit! much appreciated
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-01-2011, 02:56 PM	#5
Dackelone European Editor 10642 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	I think I would change the oil after the engine was fully warmed up. I have never liked changing a car's oil when cold. No matter how long it has been sitting. But that is just me. I would change the oil - even with no real miles on it. Most people who store cars reccomend fresh oil before AND after storing a car. I think the best oil is fresh oil. Does that make me old school? I think synthetic oil DOES go bad over time. But it takes a few(3+) years for it to go bad. I remember reading about some guy who bought some synthetic oil on same and many years later the oil had sepperated into two parts. After all synthetic oil IS man made. You might try asking these Q's over at "Bob the oil guy"s webiste. I am sure someone has asked these very Q's before. Last edited by Dackelone; 05-01-2011 at 03:22 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-01-2011, 03:26 PM	#6
Turbolader The Fat Stig 11 Rep 274 Posts Drives: 2010 135i Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: 2003 Stg 3+ SRT-4 iTrader: (1)	The oil may be fine, but it's going to have water in it, which isn't good. When I used to store my cars, I would run them once ever few weeks because I wanted to: - Keep oil on the internals so they don't rust (I had cars with cast iron blocks) - "Bake" out the water in the oil - keep the charging system up to snuff - scare any potential critters that thought the exhaust system would make a nice home In your case: I personally would open the drain plug and let her sit like that for a week. After all, why not? Hotter oil flows better, but there isn't any oil left in the engine, it's all in the pan (Unless the n54 is designed like the Nissan VQ series engine, which likes to keep almost a quart in crevices). Letting it drain out for a long time will make sure you get all of it out. If you are a real oil geek like me, you will even pour some "wash oil" in and let it get every last drop out. I usually use what ever dino oil is on sale for the wash oil...BMW LL-01 approved oils cost too much to be pouring them down the drain... If you don't change it...you could treat it like you're first starting an engine...Why? Because there's currently no oil at all in the head. So yank the ignition system and fuel pump fuse (or just the fuel pump fuse) and then attempt to start the car. Do this a few times (Giving the starter time to cool down between attempts). What this will do is spin the engine at a lower-than-idle speed, without any heat, and will prime your oil system, getting the oil to the head. After you do that a few times, pop your fuses back in and start her up and let her run at operating temp long enough to boil off the water thats in the oil. I will include one caviat....I am not very experienced with modern German designed vehicles...More than likely you will definitely get CEL lights, but I am not sure if they will go away when you reinsert the fuses for the ignition system and fuel pump. My point is moot if you have a service tool to clear them though As far as "is the oil still good" -- well even if you bake out the water, the water that was there, along with the small amount of fuel dilution that occurs naturally just from shutting off the car, the oil's going to likely be somewhat acidic. I personally think that is why most manufacturers tell you to change your oil at a mileage OR date increment. If my fading memory serves me right, most manufacturers state to change it at 6 months regardless if you've hit the miles or not. Hope this helps! __________________ Philippians 1:20
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-01-2011, 04:15 PM	#7
rudyv1 Private First Class 37 Rep 193 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Convertible Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Kitchener ON iTrader: (0)	awesome reply!! thank you so all the info Turbolader!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-02-2011, 05:00 AM	#8
Dackelone European Editor 10642 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	Turbolader - How can we turn over the engine while not having it start... in order to "prime" the oil system? Each cylinder has a coil pack over the plug. ???
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-02-2011, 12:59 PM	#9
Turbolader The Fat Stig 11 Rep 274 Posts Drives: 2010 135i Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: 2003 Stg 3+ SRT-4 iTrader: (1)	That's a good question...Never dealt with a Coil-On-Plug (COP) car before, however... - If you yank the fuse(s) to the PCM, that will kill the coil and fuel injection drivers, however I am not sure about whether or not the starter will even turn over -- some cars need to do the key/PCM handshake for the starter to work, while others only need to do the handshake to fire off the fuel injectors...Further complicating the problem is the starter is now controlled by a button instead of a key...The PCM may be needed to even get to the "start" signal. (If there are any BMW techs in here, I'd be interested in finding this out for sure) - Slightly more work, you could yank the power leads to each coil. Like I said the last time though, the PCM is probably going to be pretty upset (unless you kill the power to it, in which case the PCM is sleeping happily), so you may end up with CELs that can only be cleared with a scan tool. In all reality, the best way to prime the engine, is to pull all the plugs, then put a few drops of oil in each cylinder...then bump the starter a few times (without the plugs in)...this way you have oil to protect the rings immediately, and it makes it easier for the starter since it's no longer fighting compression strokes. (I didn't mention that method because I figured the OP was looking for a quick way to get her heart beating again ) [edit] One more thing I forgot to mention: If you do decide to bump the starter without the plugs in there....Make sure you have a clean rag stuffed in the spark plug holes. Reason why is that some of the oil drops will try to come out, and then you'll have a messy valve cover. __________________ Philippians 1:20 Last edited by Turbolader; 05-02-2011 at 01:04 PM.. Reason: see underneath the edit section
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-02-2011, 02:12 PM	#10
Walt White Coupe Captain 225 Rep 742 Posts Drives: 2013 650ix Coupe, 23 C8 Vette Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Phila, PA iTrader: (0)	Jeez, just start the damn thing.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-03-2011, 06:39 PM	#12
rudyv1 Private First Class 37 Rep 193 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Convertible Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Kitchener ON iTrader: (0)	Fuel stabilizer was used with 94 octane fuel
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-04-2011, 08:36 AM	#13
stevenc Coming Soon 256 Rep 960 Posts Drives: 2015 BMW M4 Alphine White MT Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (0)	To me the problem here is not whether the oil is bad or not, its more about how much oil has dripped off friction components. Whether you start the engine with new oil or old oil, the damage at initial start up is done anyway. Start the car and then change the oil.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-04-2011, 10:05 AM	#14
Walt White Coupe Captain 225 Rep 742 Posts Drives: 2013 650ix Coupe, 23 C8 Vette Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Phila, PA iTrader: (0)	Oil coats all the internal parts of the engine. A thin film exists after years and years of "sitting around." In years past, I've torn apart engines in junk yards that sat out out the open weather for years with mineral oil and I never found one that didn't have oil coating everything internal. Your worries are unfounded.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-05-2011, 06:09 PM	#15
rudyv1 Private First Class 37 Rep 193 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Convertible Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Kitchener ON iTrader: (0)	Should I dump in all 7 quarts or only 6.5 ?
	Appreciate 0 Quote