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      05-03-2017, 12:30 AM   #1
TridenTBoy
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Unhappy Engine gone? Loud explosion, runs super rough

Well, was driving home and started accelerating hard in 1st then the car shifted into 2nd and BAM, I'm like, "holy hell that was a really loud backfire! It doesn't make that much noise normally." It's been backfiring here and there. But this was hella loud. Then power gets weird. Like I'm rubbing or got a flat tire or picked up an extra 1000lbs. Service engine light comes on. Starts shifting funny. I look around the car, I can't see anything that's really noticeable. Car says it has oil still. No drips when parked. The car just had its water pump replaced, by me too.

Any ideas? It's idling rough now but wasn't shortly after the issue. Waiting for my SO to get here and use AAA to get it towed home. Just bought this car six months ago. Come on...

Gut feels like the dct just blew up. But rough idling makes me think the engine just took a dump but the turbo could've also blown. So who knows. Just service engine. Nothing in vehicle status.

2013 135is with dct.
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      05-03-2017, 02:03 AM   #2
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I've got no idea really but if you're N55 (MAF sensor) and your charge pipe popped (don't know if that is common for N55s) that could explain the issue. I imagine there would also be black smoke if this was the case.
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      05-03-2017, 02:16 AM   #3
TridenTBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoLLo_ View Post
I've got no idea really but if you're N55 (MAF sensor) and your charge pipe popped (don't know if that is common for N55s) that could explain the issue. I imagine there would also be black smoke if this was the case.
Ah. This feels close to home. I did feel like something popped off.

I'll check. Any links to good info on this?
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      05-03-2017, 02:25 AM   #4
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I don't have any "good" links to info but I found a couple of threads with pictures:

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=932876
http://www.***********.com/showthrea...gepipe-failure
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      05-03-2017, 02:36 AM   #5
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Sounds like charge pipe gave up. Have a look around the C clip where it connects to the throttle body to see if it's cracked.
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      05-03-2017, 02:51 AM   #6
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Yep. Charge pipe blew off. Suggestions?
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      05-03-2017, 02:55 AM   #7
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Celebrate.

Other than that I'm still on the stock one so I have no useful suggestions.
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      05-03-2017, 03:02 AM   #8
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Curious, how many miles?
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      05-03-2017, 03:06 AM   #9
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Curious, how many miles?
42,700. Water pump started to fail about 500-750 miles ago too. Replaced that this last weekend.

Any chance there's damage to my engine from the charge pipe flying off and other stuff being sucked in? I hope nothing got in there!
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      05-03-2017, 03:13 AM   #10
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That's your charge pipe that blew, I got the Cobb charge pipe works perfectly fine
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      05-03-2017, 03:45 AM   #11
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I'm looking at charge pipes now. Is there any meaningful differences between them all? I want one that'll work seamlessly with my 135is convertible. I don't particularly care for ports that allow for meth injection and so on. It's nice but not necessary. I plan to keep this car stock for as long as possible.
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      05-03-2017, 06:42 AM   #12
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Here you go. Get one of these two. Personally I have the ER pipe. BMS branded pipe is CPe. Do yourself a favor, make sure you get one with the same hard contact C-clip attachment.

http://burgertuning.com/chargepipe_u...5_N54_BMW.html

http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/node/190
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      05-03-2017, 08:22 AM   #13
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Sounds like someone never owned a turbo car before

Blowing off couplers is just a part of life when you own a higher hp turbo car.

I EXPLODED a coupler at 40 psi bombing past a row of slower cars at Autobahn in Chicago (in the ol' Mazdaspeed3) now that's a change your pants moment. lol

GL fixing it OP!
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      05-03-2017, 09:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TridenTBoy View Post
I'm looking at charge pipes now. Is there any meaningful differences between them all? I want one that'll work seamlessly with my 135is convertible. I don't particularly care for ports that allow for meth injection and so on. It's nice but not necessary. I plan to keep this car stock for as long as possible.
There've been several tests on this, they make no noticeable difference between any of the brands really. Just get one with the C clip attachment as ShocknAwe said and make sure it's all-metal. I have the CP-E charge pipe, got it used for like $100 and it's been great.
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      05-03-2017, 03:22 PM   #15
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Went to put it back on. Charge pipe is destroyed. I have to buy a new one.

Is the Phoenix for $129 the best deal?
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      05-03-2017, 04:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TridenTBoy View Post
Went to put it back on. Charge pipe is destroyed. I have to buy a new one.

Is the Phoenix for $129 the best deal?
It is unless you find another used. If you buy phoenix make sure you get it from bms Ora bms reseller, they inspect and test-fit, and clean up every one. Others could have fitment issues.
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      05-03-2017, 04:42 PM   #17
TridenTBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
It is unless you find another used. If you buy phoenix make sure you get it from bms Ora bms reseller, they inspect and test-fit, and clean up every one. Others could have fitment issues.
Cool. I can't find any used around here. Ordered one off the BMS website. About $160 shipped with tax. Hopefully it'll be here before the weekend but that's hoping a lot. :P
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      05-04-2017, 03:38 PM   #18
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I installed Phoenix and had to emery the sensor bung to get the sensor in, but no biggee and otherwise fits fine.
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      05-05-2017, 10:48 PM   #19
TridenTBoy
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Well, don't buy the Phoenix if you have a 135is. It doesn't fit.

I tried for about an hour. I had to take a dremel to the sensor plug area to widen it up very gradually so that I could slip in the sensor.

It won't fit. Power steering lines and a bunch of other stuff is getting in the way. It also didn't fit extremely snugly like I was hoping. (I added the o-ring to it too. Still wobbly) I'll probably end up sending it back. I could get it on one side or the other but not both. And I felt like I was going to break a bunch of stuff when I was forcing it on either.
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      05-06-2017, 04:05 PM   #20
TridenTBoy
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Okay. Finally got the pipe on. I couldn't get it on last night. I finally was able to force it on today. It took way too long and I don't like it. In retrospect, I would've gone with the ER pipe or one of the others that tries to exactly replicate OEM. This one is much fatter than the OEM pipe and doesn't have the hanger to reduce vibration.

Along with the fact I had to dremel it so much to get the sensor to barely fit in... I don't recommend it.

I had to use *a lot* of silicone spray lube to get the pipe and fittings to work. It was just impossible to adjust them otherwise once I was trying to get them on. I don't even really know how I made it happen.
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      05-06-2017, 08:31 PM   #21
TridenTBoy
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Getting a bit of a rough idle and some slight unusualness. I'll be looking for threads on how to test for boost leaks beyond water+soap in a spray bottle.
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      05-07-2017, 02:02 AM   #22
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I don't have any advice - just want to say thank you for posting updates, really makes threads like these super useful in the future. Good luck!
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