questions and help on a few things

defmonkey · 09-02-2013, 09:15 AM

I think my water pump took a dump on me.... i was driving on the highway and got the yellow temp indicator on the idrive and then went into limp mode proceeded with the red overheating indicator, needless to say I pulled over and had the car towed. I let the car sit overnight and just preformed the water pump test (heat high, fan on 1, and gas for 10sec), the pump came on and it hummed like there was resistance and like ir was spinning and pun[p blade wat hitting something. So looks like the pump is bad and I will be doing a pump and thermostat at the same time. My question is what else should be done while I am in there? I am planning to do pump, thermostat, oil, spark plugs, cabin filter, and air filter all at the same time. Any other recommendation on what else I should do while my hands are dirty? I will be putting a Cobb tune, Fmic, and charge pipe in the near future (my car is a 100% stock 2008 135i 42,000mi), so any recommended preventive measures i can take will be great! Also maybe pure coincidence I within the last 2 weeks i have gotten the intermittent dsc malfunction and dbs malfunction that comes and goes, as well as the water pump going out. I have read that it could be battery related issue (due to a weak battery or one that is about to die. The dealer wants $450 to install and code the battery (which I will have to pay due to not being able to code myself). My follow question is (as i am new to all this coding and etc) what do i need to do to clear all the codes? I have read that the codes must be cleared before installing the new water pump.... I do not have any engine lights on but to my understanding codes are stored and must be cleared first. So how would I go about doing that and what tools would I need to do that?

sorry for the long rant, but any help would be awesome! Thanks in advance!

JimD · 09-03-2013, 06:59 AM

The cheapest way to clear codes I know of is to buy torque for your phone or tablet and a OBDII to bluetooth adapter for about $30 ($5 for the software, $25 for the adapter). The software is easy to use and will also graph signals and let you have new gauges on your phone. I cleared a proprietary Toyota code off my wife's truck a couple times with it. It not only gave me the code but a short explanation of it too. That is more than my code reader does.

The battery coding takes a cable that costs about $100 and some "free" software. I have it and plan to code the new battery when my time comes (I'm hoping that isn't soon).

defmonkey · 09-03-2013, 12:10 PM

thanks for the info!

Dackelone · 09-03-2013, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimD

The battery coding takes a cable that costs about $100 and some "free" software. I have it and plan to code the new battery when my time comes (I'm hoping that isn't soon).

JimD - IF one replaces the battery with the SAME size(Amp/hr, cold cranking power) capacity AGM battery - I did not think you need to do any coding.

I thought you only need to code the battery to the car IF you change the battery size. ???

OP - did you have your battery cable recall done? There might be some open recalls on your car. Have a dealer check your VIN.

JimD · 09-03-2013, 03:24 PM

Dack,

It's different if you change the battery size (amp hour rating) or type (AGM versus regular) but you need to code in either event. If you put in the same size and type, you go into EDIABAS, then Tool32, then MSD80 (for us), and run stevern_batterietausch_registri to tell the car it's a new battery. It charges an old battery differently than a new one. If you change the battery size or type, you also need to run NCSExpert and change that line of code. I think it's in CAS and you look for SG_CODIEREN where you change an option to your battery size/type.

I am more worried about the former than the latter, I've run NCSExpert several times but never the other program. I'll probably just put in the same size and type, however.

Jim

defmonkey · 09-03-2013, 04:34 PM

I have not done the battery cable recall as of yet, but from what i read I haven't seen it improve or hinder anything major in the car as of yet.. That is the only recall that is on the car. I will be replacing the battery with the same oem battery it came with once my BT tool comes in so that I can register the new battery

09-02-2013, 09:15 AM	#1
defmonkey Enlisted Member 1 Rep 40 Posts Drives: 135i aw/cr Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: st petersburg fl iTrader: (0)	questions and help on a few things I think my water pump took a dump on me.... i was driving on the highway and got the yellow temp indicator on the idrive and then went into limp mode proceeded with the red overheating indicator, needless to say I pulled over and had the car towed. I let the car sit overnight and just preformed the water pump test (heat high, fan on 1, and gas for 10sec), the pump came on and it hummed like there was resistance and like ir was spinning and pun[p blade wat hitting something. So looks like the pump is bad and I will be doing a pump and thermostat at the same time. My question is what else should be done while I am in there? I am planning to do pump, thermostat, oil, spark plugs, cabin filter, and air filter all at the same time. Any other recommendation on what else I should do while my hands are dirty? I will be putting a Cobb tune, Fmic, and charge pipe in the near future (my car is a 100% stock 2008 135i 42,000mi), so any recommended preventive measures i can take will be great! Also maybe pure coincidence I within the last 2 weeks i have gotten the intermittent dsc malfunction and dbs malfunction that comes and goes, as well as the water pump going out. I have read that it could be battery related issue (due to a weak battery or one that is about to die. The dealer wants $450 to install and code the battery (which I will have to pay due to not being able to code myself). My follow question is (as i am new to all this coding and etc) what do i need to do to clear all the codes? I have read that the codes must be cleared before installing the new water pump.... I do not have any engine lights on but to my understanding codes are stored and must be cleared first. So how would I go about doing that and what tools would I need to do that? sorry for the long rant, but any help would be awesome! Thanks in advance!
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09-03-2013, 06:59 AM	#2
JimD Brigadier General 369 Rep 3,547 Posts Drives: 128i convertible Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Lexington, SC iTrader: (0)	The cheapest way to clear codes I know of is to buy torque for your phone or tablet and a OBDII to bluetooth adapter for about $30 ($5 for the software, $25 for the adapter). The software is easy to use and will also graph signals and let you have new gauges on your phone. I cleared a proprietary Toyota code off my wife's truck a couple times with it. It not only gave me the code but a short explanation of it too. That is more than my code reader does. The battery coding takes a cable that costs about $100 and some "free" software. I have it and plan to code the new battery when my time comes (I'm hoping that isn't soon). __________________ 128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09
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09-03-2013, 12:10 PM	#3
defmonkey Enlisted Member 1 Rep 40 Posts Drives: 135i aw/cr Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: st petersburg fl iTrader: (0)	thanks for the info!
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09-03-2013, 03:24 PM	#5
JimD Brigadier General 369 Rep 3,547 Posts Drives: 128i convertible Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Lexington, SC iTrader: (0)	Dack, It's different if you change the battery size (amp hour rating) or type (AGM versus regular) but you need to code in either event. If you put in the same size and type, you go into EDIABAS, then Tool32, then MSD80 (for us), and run stevern_batterietausch_registri to tell the car it's a new battery. It charges an old battery differently than a new one. If you change the battery size or type, you also need to run NCSExpert and change that line of code. I think it's in CAS and you look for SG_CODIEREN where you change an option to your battery size/type. I am more worried about the former than the latter, I've run NCSExpert several times but never the other program. I'll probably just put in the same size and type, however. Jim __________________ 128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 Last edited by JimD; 09-03-2013 at 03:37 PM..
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09-03-2013, 04:34 PM	#6
defmonkey Enlisted Member 1 Rep 40 Posts Drives: 135i aw/cr Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: st petersburg fl iTrader: (0)	I have not done the battery cable recall as of yet, but from what i read I haven't seen it improve or hinder anything major in the car as of yet.. That is the only recall that is on the car. I will be replacing the battery with the same oem battery it came with once my BT tool comes in so that I can register the new battery
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