Wish me luck..Front 18x9ET39, Rear 18x10ET62

[froop]

I'm highly considering purchasing a set of Forgestar F14s in an 18x9ET39 front fitment with rear 18x10ET62. I want to run R888s in a 255/35/18 in the front and 285/30/18 in the rear. The main purpose of this is to maximise the rubber under the stock fenders.

From what I have read, ER used to run an 18x10ET62 on their race car with the same tyres and rubbed only a bit on the inside rear wheel well. I am hoping that my M3 rear subframe isn't going to cause any additional issues.

I also saw a post from someone who ran 18x9ET41s with a 5mm spacer and they said it seemed ok. This was with 2.7º camber though and I plan on running at least that or more as I predominantly track this car.

Anyone have any comments before I take the plunge?

Also, any suggestions on colours? They have a lot of options but I was probably leaning more towards just plain silver, textured black or race gold

http://www.forgestar.com/v2/wheelsf14.php

[kaitan]

Are you turning it into a race car Alex ?? Why would you need to much rubber in the fronts !! That's even wider than a stock standard GT3!

Haha when are we going to have a drive day?

[froop]

Originally Posted by kaitan

Are you turning it into a race car Alex ?? Why would you need to much rubber in the fronts !! That's even wider than a stock standard GT3!

Haha when are we going to have a drive day?

It's pretty much a race car lol. I don't drive it much except for motorsports events and the odd car meet.

[PeteA]

I'm fitting 245/35 fronts on a 8.5" with at 36 offset with some wider fenders pretty comfortably. The bumper tab is your biggest enemy, not the fender itself.

[martymil]

I have 245/30/20 8.5 +40 with -1 deg camber and have heaps of room left but that's on stock arms

[froop]

Originally Posted by PeteA

I'm fitting 245/35 fronts on a 8.5" with at 36 offset with some wider fenders pretty comfortably. The bumper tab is your biggest enemy, not the fender itself.

Yeah I think I would just shave it down.

Turns out I can't get an 18x10 ET62... Max is a 42 offset so I'll have to settle with a 9.5inch wheel at ET60. Shame..

[martymil]

With et60you might need a spacer or your going to rub against the filler neck on the right hand side inner guard

Especially when you fit some big rubber

[vtl]

Originally Posted by froop

Yeah I think I would just shave it down.

Turns out I can't get an 18x10 ET62... Max is a 42 offset so I'll have to settle with a 9.5inch wheel at ET60. Shame..

If you are on stock hubs you can gain another 10mm offset by switching hubs. The 135i's hubs stick out another 10mm compared to other models. People have swapped the drive flange and brake disc:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=975919

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ion/ES2762929/

That will get your ET42 wheel to an equivalent ET52. Is that still too aggressive to fit under the fenders?

[froop]

Originally Posted by vtl

If you are on stock hubs you can gain another 10mm offset by switching hubs. The 135i's hubs stick out another 10mm compared to other models. People have swapped the drive flange and brake disc:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=975919

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ion/ES2762929/

That will get your ET42 wheel to an equivalent ET52. Is that still too aggressive to fit under the fenders?

Yeah it's definitely way too aggressive haha.

I currently have an 18x9ET50 wheel that was way too aggressive with a 265/35/18 on the rear. I had to shave it back 6mm to make it an ET56 and it still was causing big issues around the front of the arch so I had to get that part of the fender hammered in. I already had my guards rolled too.

That is good info though. Would allow the running of better offsets than our current ones.

[martymil]

It's it just not hubs he has to change, it's discs, handbrake, calipers

Big job

[PeteA]

Originally Posted by froop

Yeah it's definitely way too aggressive haha.

I currently have an 18x9ET50 wheel that was way too aggressive with a 265/35/18 on the rear. I had to shave it back 6mm to make it an ET56 and it still was causing big issues around the front of the arch so I had to get that part of the fender hammered in. I already had my guards rolled too.

That is good info though. Would allow the running of better offsets than our current ones.

Surprising this is the case with your rears. My rears are ET50 8.5" with a 265/35/18 back there without issues. Are you dumped low and have you maximised your rear camber?

[froop]

Originally Posted by PeteA

Surprising this is the case with your rears. My rears are ET50 8.5" with a 265/35/18 back there without issues. Are you dumped low and have you maximised your rear camber?

Definitely not dumped in the rear but it is lowered mildly to moderately.

I have AD08Rs which have really square shoulders.

My camber is maybe at around -1.5º. Not sure on the exact specs.

[John_01]

AD08R are pretty massive tyres by normal road tyre standards, but R-comps such as R888 are at least as wide with more square shoulders. I am not sure that R888 is the greatest R-comp tire available, but if you are buying them for occasional use on the roads, its a reasonable starting point. What I mean is they are hard and tough enough to be used on the road, but I'm still a bit wary of where and how often I drive. I don't want to take too much life out of them or risk getting them cut or punctured. There is a new version of R888 that has just been released, called the R888-R. Maybe its worth checking those out too.

Lets compare tires specs..

FRONT
AD08R 235/40/18: D=644, W=242 (existing tyres)
R888 235/40/18: D=648, W=244
R888 255/35/18: D=637, W=260 (Proposed)
Additional 18mm overall width, but tread may be wider.

REAR
AD08R 265/35/18: D=643, W=269 (Existing tyres)
R888 265/35/18: D=646, W=274
R888 285/30/18: D=631, W=288 (Proposed)
Additional 19mm overall width, but tread may be wider.

I looked at Froop's car before, I think its pretty close to rubbing front and rear. Maybe it possible to get a little bit more space on the rear by increasing the camber to 2.2 degrees. I would hesitate to increase the offset too much, as it could rub the fuel filler at full compression. My car has 255/40/17 R888 on ET52 wheels, with 2.2 degrees static camber. On full compression it hits the guard liner that covers the fuel filler tube (I can see the marks on it). I am using short-body koni rear shocks, so I might need longer rear bump stops to prevent this happening.

For the front of Froops car, I'm not sure it has 18mm more space. Maybe its time to do some re-work of the front guards. Maybe attempt to fit 18x9.0 ET31 wheels with 255 or 265 front tyres. If that doesn't work, then maybe a 1M conversion or adapt a E46 GTR body kit.

[froop]

Originally Posted by John_01

AD08R are pretty massive tyres by normal road tyre standards, but R-comps such as R888 are at least as wide with more square shoulders. I am not sure that R888 is the greatest R-comp tire available, but if you are buying them for occasional use on the roads, its a reasonable starting point. What I mean is they are hard and tough enough to be used on the road, but I'm still a bit wary of where and how often I drive. I don't want to take too much life out of them or risk getting them cut or punctured. There is a new version of R888 that has just been released, called the R888-R. Maybe its worth checking those out too.

Lets compare tires specs..

FRONT
AD08R 235/40/18: D=644, W=242 (existing tyres)
R888 235/40/18: D=648, W=244
R888 255/35/18: D=637, W=260 (Proposed)
Additional 18mm overall width, but tread may be wider.

REAR
AD08R 265/35/18: D=643, W=269 (Existing tyres)
R888 265/35/18: D=646, W=274
R888 285/30/18: D=631, W=288 (Proposed)
Additional 19mm overall width, but tread may be wider.

I looked at Froop's car before, I think its pretty close to rubbing front and rear. Maybe it possible to get a little bit more space on the rear by increasing the camber to 2.2 degrees. I would hesitate to increase the offset too much, as it could rub the fuel filler at full compression. My car has 255/40/17 R888 on ET52 wheels, with 2.2 degrees static camber. On full compression it hits the guard liner that covers the fuel filler tube (I can see the marks on it). I am using short-body koni rear shocks, so I might need longer rear bump stops to prevent this happening.

For the front of Froops car, I'm not sure it has 18mm more space. Maybe its time to do some re-work of the front guards. Maybe attempt to fit 18x9.0 ET31 wheels with 255 or 265 front tyres. If that doesn't work, then maybe a 1M conversion or adapt a E46 GTR body kit.

Hey John! Thanks for the tips. One thing to also consider though is that going to a lower profile, the diameter of both front and rear tyres will be less.

To be honest, I looked at my car and the gap between the fender and the tyre and I don't know where I'm going to find the extra space but worse case I get new front wide fenders and get the rears shaved or something.

Also, not sure I'd be able to fit a 285/30/18 on the 9.5" rim unfortunately as it is outside the maximum recommended fitment. Might have to go with 275/30/18 maybe.

That E46 GTR kit is beautiful.

Also, any suggestions on colour people?

[flinchy]

you should be fine on the front with enough camber.. I've got 8.5 +42-3 with -1.5, M3 arms, and there's a hell of a lot of room both inside and outside, could happily fit 255 even on the 8.5

Rear, It'll be interesting to see - i thought 9.5 +62 was the maximum rubber fitment... backspacing included, an extra .25" could be bringing it really close to the inside? fuel filler neck as mentioned. as well as closer to the outside

Originally Posted by vtl

If you are on stock hubs you can gain another 10mm offset by switching hubs. The 135i's hubs stick out another 10mm compared to other models. People have swapped the drive flange and brake disc:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=975919

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ion/ES2762929/

That will get your ET42 wheel to an equivalent ET52. Is that still too aggressive to fit under the fenders?

hell of a lot of work when you could just get new wheels!.. if you went to say 123/130 hub- you could keep the handbrake/caliper, but then rotors are harder to get slightly... plus the expense of new wheel bearings, hubs themselves, and the labour (or pita DIY) totally not worth it.

[John_01]

Here is a thread where someone had trouble with the 18x9.5 ET62 Wheels with 275 tyres. They ended up with R888 in 265/35/18 and a 3mm spacer.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...34&postcount=6

[MrBlonde]

With white I'd go gold wheels

[froop]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

With white I'd go gold wheels

I went with Bronze Burst :P

[arthurtwp]

Originally Posted by froop

I went with Bronze Burst :P

+1

[froop]

Wheels arrived! Going to swap my current tyres onto them and get 255/35 and 285/30 R888s later once the tyres arrive in March

[DR-JEKL]

Wow that finish looks great!!!

Shame about the lack of concavity though!

[froop]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Wow that finish looks great!!!

Shame about the lack of concavity though!

Yeah the finish is great. Hopefully it lasts on the track lol. But yeah can't get concavity on a 1er really. Only way I can get concavity is if I go 1M conversion or something along those lines.

Also I now realise how Forgestar actually do their custom offsets. They have one mould and then they machine the rear hub face to the desired offset. Both my front and rear have the exact same face profile I believe, it's just the rear hub face that's shaved down to different degrees.