Engine Light/Reduced Power

[CoralRed]

Hi Everyone!

Been quite some time since I've posted anything here. Been super busy with my M Roadster and finishing school/Bar exam. Just haven't had much time to do anything with the 135i.

Bought my 135i new in March of 2008 and it now has just shy of 52,000 miles. Its got the BMW Performance Kit, an AFE Intake, and BMW performance exhaust. Other than that the Engine is stock. Been maintained to Mike Miller Standards from new.

The HPFP was replaced by BMW several years ago and right now I have the stock wheels and snow tires installed (Summers are Advan RZs with PS Super Sports).

I thought I'd experienced everything but recently I've started experiencing something I can't figure out.

Several weeks ago we had a warm day and I drove to the golf course to hit some balls. Was there probably an hour so the Engine cooled down a little bit. Fired it up and went on my merry way. After about 5 minutes of driving I turned on to a freeway on ramp and at about 25-30 MPH in third gear I gave it about 2/3 throttle. As soon as I did this the Engine management light (the diagram of an engine that's half orange half black) came on.

I immediately drove to my dealership and arrived within 10 minutes. When I got their they read the key and ran a quick diagnostic check and no fault codes were present. I went home.

Haven't been driving much lately because of the weather etc. and what driving I have been doing has mostly just been around town.

Fast forward to today. Got in my car. After about 10 minutes of driving (Engine temp at about 160) I once again turned on to an on ramp and in third gear gave it about 2/3 throttle. Bam. Light comes on. Get off at next exit and turn car off and back on. Light is off.

After this I began to experiment and the car does seem to have reduced power. I wouldn't say its "limp" mode but its noticeable. Normally it has enough power to really put you in your seat... Not anymore.

On my way home I was able to recreate the light coming on twice. Its always under moderate throttle.

Haven't noticed any reduction in fuel economy and starting the car is completely normal.

Anyone have any ideas? My thoughts are injectors or some MAF sensor issue.

Thanks in advance!

[iminhell1]

I'll go with a boost leak. A 30FF.

[CoralRed]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

I'll go with a boost leak. A 30FF.

Hmm I hadn't thought of that but makes sense. I'll add that to the list!

[asiflicious]

It could be any number of things. Without codes we're just guessing

[CoralRed]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

It could be any number of things. Without codes we're just guessing

I was really hoping/thinking whatever it is would have triggered a code. I've got an appointment from Monday to bring it in. Its otherwise running alright... Minus the idle issue it's had for years: It'll be idling normally and the idle will suddenly drop so long it almost dies then will immediately bounce up to over 1,000 RMP. After it does that It'll settle down and be normal again. I've had it in the shop several times just for this problem, but of course they can never replicate it. Wonder if the two are related?

[Happy Jose]

If you got an engine warning light, lights up in RED, you'll get a code. Also STOP.

If yellow, reduced engine power, but you can continue. Something is wrong but not of a too serious nature, maybe! I don't know if you'll get a code or not.

This is why every BMW owner should have a scanner to check for codes and get some clue about the problem before going to the wrench!

[asiflicious]

If you went into limp mode, you 100% have a code. It may be worth investing in MHD or MyCarly for future occurrences like this.

[CoralRed]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

If you went into limp mode, you 100% have a code. It may be worth investing in MHD or MyCarly for future occurrences like this.

I don't think it was limp mode though, which puzzles me. I've never experienced limp mode but the car was still quick but had power loss. Redline didn't seem to be lowered-- I've always heard limp mode red line is 4.5k so I briefly went to 5k.

[CoralRed]

Turned out to be a cracked Vacuum hose. $380 later and she should be good as new. Just waiting on new Michelin Pilot 4s to get it.

[PA135ii]

I have been getting check engine lights since last June 2018. (yellow engine icon). Took to the dealer and they said cam seals need to be replaced. I ignored that and July 4th on a trip an hour away BING... same check engine light comes on with reduced power. Drove the car that weekend with no issues (short trips from hotel).

August 2018 had my indy shop replaced the cam seals. He confirmed and showed me the worn parts.

Drove the car another 6 weeks with no issues and in October 2018... yup BING! yellow engine light again. Indy shop saw a cracked hose and replaced it. On a trip Thanksgiving day an hour away .. yup BING!.. check engine light came on. Dropped the car off at my indy shop and they called with more bad news... waste gates are shot. They had about 80K miles on them since the dealer replaced them under warranty at 49K.

Got the car back on February 1 and within a week... yup BING!... yellow check engine light comes on again. I've spent about $5K on this issue in the last 8 months... I don't know what to do. Am I an idiot to keep trying to get it resolved?
Should I walk away from it? I did call my indy shop and I'm taking it up to them tomorrow morning to read the code... AGAIN.

Very frustrating.....

PS- when I picked my car up after the waste gate install the car now has a ticking sound as I accelerate. Did not have this before the WG install. Indy shop guys told me it should go away as the oil circulates through the engine. (the car sat for over 3 weeks before they were able to work on it)

[JimD]

When to get rid of a car is a tough decision. It's pretty difficult to know when things will stop going wrong. I like it better when I can see what is wrong before I take it in so I got a OBDII to bluetooth and torque on a tablet so I can read the code myself.

I have had a check engine light for multiple years at this point. It is for the evaporative system - the infamous gas cap code. I think it might be the pump that is supposed to pull the vacuum to prove the system is working. Car runs fine regardless of that system so I have not addressed it.

I gave my son my SUV when it got up to about 150K miles and started throwing codes for the oxygen sensors. The car he was driving was getting well up there in miles (about 250K) and that was a factor too. The SUV was dependable but oxygen sensors are one of my least favorite things, always seem to be rusted in place pretty solidly. He's better at this stuff than I am.

When you are paying for maintenance, it can make it more frustrating when the car gets up over 100K miles and the issues pile up. Getting rid of it may never strictly speaking make economic sense but the frustration factor needs to be considered too.