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      11-21-2016, 05:23 PM   #45
muddtt
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Help!

I just did this. Was pumping in the ATF fluid. I bought 6 liters...and pumped in all 6 liters and it never started dripping out. You think it'll be okay to drive around until I can source another liter?

Most people doing this said they used less than 6.
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      11-21-2016, 05:34 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddtt View Post
Help!

I just did this. Was pumping in the ATF fluid. I bought 6 liters...and pumped in all 6 liters and it never started dripping out. You think it'll be okay to drive around until I can source another liter?

Most people doing this said they used less than 6.
How much fluid came out?

I would not drive the car far on low fluid. The trans can do funny stuff. I think the ZF trans holds 13 liters. Usually only five or so liters comes out when you pull the AT pan. You also have to measure the trans fluid level with a ATF temp. I think ~80'C - then pull the plug and see how much comes out. DO NOT burn yourself and make sure the car is supported safely.

Dack
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      11-21-2016, 05:45 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
How much fluid came out?

I would not drive the car far on low fluid. The trans can do funny stuff. I think the ZF trans holds 13 liters. Usually only five or so liters comes out when you pull the AT pan. You also have to measure the trans fluid level with a ATF temp. I think ~80'C - then pull the plug and see how much comes out. DO NOT burn yourself and make sure the car is supported safely.

Dack
About 1.5 gallons came out (5.7liters). That was with pan exchange.

I used a thermal gun to measure the area and it was at about 30'C. According to the instructions that should've been the proper temp to fill. You think if I let the engine idle awhile longer it would start dripping out?
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      11-21-2016, 06:01 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddtt View Post
About 1.5 gallons came out (5.7liters). That was with pan exchange.

I used a thermal gun to measure the area and it was at about 30'C. According to the instructions that should've been the proper temp to fill. You think if I let the engine idle awhile longer it would start dripping out?
I think as long as you put back the same amount of fluid as came out... you should be ok.

I think 30'C is too cold to check the fluid level. I thought it was ~80'C. Maybe check with CTSC. In their tranny kits they only supply six liters of ZF fluid, so I think you are ok.


http://www.thectsc.com/products/oil-...--227-109.html
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      11-21-2016, 06:04 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I think as long as you put back the same amount of fluid as came out... you should be ok.

I think 30'C is too cold to check the fluid level. I thought it was ~80'C. Maybe check with CTSC. In their tranny kits they only supply six liters of ZF fluid, so I think you are ok.


http://www.thectsc.com/products/oil-...--227-109.html
page 13 from the pdf said 30-40c. maybe your thinking in F?

I think I feel okay since it was about the same in as out, like you said. I'll go ahead and order another liter in the mean time and get it right.

thanks!
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File Type: pdf 6HP21_mechatronic_replacement (1).pdf (1.44 MB, 210 views)
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      11-21-2016, 06:23 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddtt View Post
page 13 from the pdf said 30-40c. maybe your thinking in F?

I think I feel okay since it was about the same in as out, like you said. I'll go ahead and order another liter in the mean time and get it right.

thanks!
Ok, well then - there you have it(!) in B&W. 30°C and 35°C range - if you remove that plug and nothing comes out. I would get some more ATF and add some more in. And recheck it.

Also... make sure your car is LEVEL. Its kind of hard to do. Maybe use a bubble level on a open door sill. That's how I did mine when I changed my manual trans and diff fluids.

I think the reason why I remember 80'C is for my e39 5er.

Dackel
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      12-19-2016, 05:41 PM   #51
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So I have an account with my local BMW dealer and can get the OEM filter/pan kit for $200 (PN= 24152333907)

I was going to use this link to purchase the ZF Lifeguard 6 ATF fluid.

http://www.thectsc.com/products/zf-l...er-184-58.html

Has anyone went this route or bought the filter/pan kits from eBay that are around $100?

I'm just trying to figure out which route I should go to purchase these parts. Thanks!
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      12-23-2016, 07:47 AM   #52
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I did this recently and my advise is to definitely recheck level after a couple of weeks.

I could sense some hesitation in shifting so I checked. It was a bit low. Make sure you did this with the transmission warmed up.

After this no more hesitation.
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      02-01-2017, 07:32 PM   #53
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This might be a bit of a dig, so sorry about that.

I bought an '08 AT 135i last summer. It has just under 100k miles on it right now, but doesn't really get driven much. To my knowledge it has never had the transmission serviced in any way. Most everything on this car needs to be serviced. The car shifts hard and isn't really slow but most definitely jerks/clunks 1->2 and 2->3 unless you give it gas (at least 20% throttle). I'm a little worried the damage may already be done? Already done a "throttle reset", and it has linear throttle courtesy of MHD, (stage 1 - no mods).

Is there anything else to do in the way of transmission service aside from a new pan and fluid?
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      02-09-2017, 03:49 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iEuropa View Post
This might be a bit of a dig, so sorry about that.

I bought an '08 AT 135i last summer. It has just under 100k miles on it right now, but doesn't really get driven much. To my knowledge it has never had the transmission serviced in any way. Most everything on this car needs to be serviced. The car shifts hard and isn't really slow but most definitely jerks/clunks 1->2 and 2->3 unless you give it gas (at least 20% throttle). I'm a little worried the damage may already be done? Already done a "throttle reset", and it has linear throttle courtesy of MHD, (stage 1 - no mods).

Is there anything else to do in the way of transmission service aside from a new pan and fluid?
Your transmission sounds like what mine was like and what mine currently is becoming again (it's been almost 70,000km since I last serviced mine). I'm quite confident that if you put in a new pan and fluid it should pretty much solve your problem. You can also get a new mechatronics sleeve and seal to replace whilst you're in there. Some people say those can cause leaks and they're not too expensive so you might as well. I bought another kit from CTSC and it's sitting in my garage waiting for me to service it. Just need to find the time.
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      02-15-2017, 05:23 PM   #55
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Just followed this guide yesterday to change the pan/fluid and it worked like a charm, car shifts so much smoother now its hardly noticable.

Cheers for the DIY Froop!
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      02-22-2017, 12:32 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
Your transmission sounds like what mine was like and what mine currently is becoming again (it's been almost 70,000km since I last serviced mine). I'm quite confident that if you put in a new pan and fluid it should pretty much solve your problem. You can also get a new mechatronics sleeve and seal to replace whilst you're in there. Some people say those can cause leaks and they're not too expensive so you might as well. I bought another kit from CTSC and it's sitting in my garage waiting for me to service it. Just need to find the time.
I think that I'll do this done soon. My car sits mostly so I'll change it before daily driving it again. I'll make sure to get a new sleeve and seal thanks for the tip!
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      12-16-2018, 09:49 PM   #57
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Please note
Redline d4 is incorrect for this transmission (as of this date)
No longer states compatibility with oem box

This has bee the updated and changed with
Redline d6

https://www.redlineoil.com/d6-atf

ZF Lifeguard 6 & 6 Plus - Shell M1375.4
('02 on 6 & 7 Series, '06 on 3, 5 Series and X5 with ZF 6 speed automatic BMW# 83 22 0 142 516, 83 22 0 144 137, 83 22 0 406 929, VW/AUDI # G 055 005, G 055 162
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      12-18-2018, 07:12 AM   #58
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I recently changed the A/T fluid on my SLK. It's a simple job, but it is messy. Also if you suffer from claustrophobia, I don't recommend it.

I also don't recommend doing any flushing which just move dirt from one place to another. The real reason to do it is to replace the filter and clean the pan of any metal particle of other stuff. The Mercedes has magnets in the pan to traps any metallic particles of sludge.

For my DCT, the oil is $30/qt and uses 10 or 11, ouch! Since I don't flog my transmission, and it hasn't been overheated, I'll likely never do this job. I'm looking through the recommended service, and I don't see anything for it. I do have to keep any eye open for leaks though.
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